FWIW (and at the risk of reviving an old thread - there's an error on the circuit board that means the full speed override relay never turns on. I have a fix which (from memory) involves cutting a track on the board. The circuit diagram in the manual is correct - it's the manufacturing of the board that's wrong. If you're interested, I'll dig out the fix. It's somewhere in the archive...Next on the electrical hit list, the cabin fans have spotaneously stopped working.
First port of call is out friend the junction box to check F2.
Not an ideal situation but it does at least work. I nabbed F7and swapped it in just to check, no change. So out with the mulitmeter to go voltage hunting. There was 12v on one site of the fuse so that's a good start. Power from F2 goes out to the fans via the two yellow cables of this connector in column 3
There was power there so on to the next item in the chain which is the fans themselves. The control gear is all on the earth side of the circuit. Both had 12v at the connectors. Having just reassembled the dashboard, it now has to come apart again to get at the fan controls.
Pins 1 and 3 are earths which were both fine. Apparently a missing earth on pin 3 is fairly common. Pin 2 is power for the lighting. Pins 4 and 5 control the fans.
Everything checked fine here and yet the fans still refused to spin. The full speed relay on the back of the steering column seemed ok but wasn't doing a whole lot. Seems they are a bit redundant anyway.
Drastic measures are required, I disconnected on of the fans and rigged up a connection direct to the battery, still no life so it appears the fans are the problem. The next step is to yank them out of the scuttle and see what's what
Are you sure that's not just melted plastic insulation? As pugwash says, could have been caused by engine heat, but also looks like the results of a short...
Ok - enlarged the photo, and can now see that the original insulation was (very thin) grey plastic, which hasn't melted, but is brittle (cracks and missing segments visible). As you said, the white stuff must be silicon - most likely bathroom sealant, not designed to withstand heat.
There's a daughter board on the back of the oil pressure gauge with an SGS Thomson IC on it that has a non-standard part number. I assume it's a quad op amp package. That's the board that reads the oil level and does the timed gubbins that switches to oil pressure. And it blows up if cack-handed people try and 'test' the oil pressure gauge.
