A110 Engine Knowledge Needed - Swaps/Upgrades etc..

Does anyone know if Kel's 330 gearbox would be the later type (R10 1300) with the beefier input shaft and tube-type guide for the throwout bearing? This would be needed along with a mk1 R5/Lecar flywheel if he wants to fit a 1.4 motor.
 
If it is a 72 it should be, a photo taken showing the spine of the gearbox under where the axles come out will tell all, if it's flat maybe, if it slopes toward the ground slightly, it's definitely late type. Only issue is many Alp's if they have been treated harshly can have the spine ground down to the Bolt heads.
 

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Late type for sure.Its the upside down Sharkfin type although the tip has been ground off against the Road. Usual A110 thing. A 13/1400 Iron Block motor would mate up to that no problem with a 180mm clutch. Should have said if you want to go Alloy 1600 you need to change the bellhousing and input shaft for a R16 type. R17 can be used but has different centres (coz it has a bigger crownwheel that is cut the wrong hand for our needs)
 
Thanks for the info @dauphproto

BobG was kind enough to get on the horn and have a chat with me about his 1.4 c3J engine build. This seems to be a great option for a swap and not have to move the radiator to the front of the car.
With this being said, the next thing I would like to discuss is a taller gear setup or maybe even a sourced 5spd gearbox (ambitious request haha).
Is there a lot of interchangeability for gears for these transmissions or do certain models only handle certain family of gear sets?
 
Yes and No. On the Geartrains front there is a lot of interchangeability, but they all have the same ratios anyway. Production wise there are 3 options. 353 R8G 5 speed close ratios, then there's the 365 early and late close ratios, (2 versions) then there's everything else which is pretty much the same.
It's the final drive's that are an issue, as we can only use Rear engines stuff and none of that is strong production wise, so we cheat and use 385 drives from R5A and R16
Read the gearboxes history article, then you will know what can and can't be done.
 
Also to what "dauphproto" has said above, the chassis need cutting and welding, in the backbone tube to rear frame assemblies, for the Big5Speed nose clearance. The areas where red lines are drawn.

Ray

Chassis Mod Steven.jpgGear Mech Steven.jpg
 
What about final ring gear ratio swaps? Is there anything out there that could help lower the overall rpms across all 4 gears?
Or maybe even swapping the 4th gear with a taller 5th gear?
 
You have a 3.9 R16 is 3.77 and that's it. going to 5 speed there is 3.9, 3.77 and 3.3 which is a big step and needs torque to work. Always remember these old cars cannot be made to behave like modern cars which have much more Diesel like torque curves nowadays
 
You have a 3.9 R16 is 3.77 and that's it. going to 5 speed there is 3.9, 3.77 and 3.3 which is a big step and needs torque to work. Always remember these old cars cannot be made to behave like modern cars which have much more Diesel like torque curves nowadays
Unless you add a turbo :)
 
Ray what is that nose cone off of? It's not a 330 or 353 piece.
If I remember right Steven used a 395 with a few modifications. Once I got the gates right it was a nice pattern to shift. It worked well with the shift shafts I think he took from the 365 or the 385; It was a hybrid box. 385 C/W&P, 365 close ratio gears, and a few things taken from the 3 boxes, all in a 330. Very nice with the 1647 motor.

Aahh and you see the shift arm is reversed to work with the position of the box in relation to the shifter.

Ray
 
I was trying to avoid that deliberate amount of confusion with the late close ratio stuff in the mix, as I haven't mentioned that yet. The parts are virtually unfindable now anyway.
 
Kel...Image of the aluminium radiator installed in my A110....note the cutaway as mentioned in my message reply. It was installed by geckoeng (Ray) above.
 

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