Water injection

The point is that the water injection is an extra, something that the engine doesn't depend on to run. It does help it run better, but you can do without it if necessary.

How could you possibly run out near the chook farms, anyway? What range does the tank give?
 
Hi 3stud,
your suggestion of soft drink as a water replacement makes me shudder. You've obviously never seen the damage sugar in the fuel causes add to that the corrosive characteristics of "coke", although the quantity is potentially small (i assume you'd clean the system at the earliest convenience), it could easily cost you an engine.
mallet
 
If the water injection is being used to reduce pinking and allow more distribitor advance & hence more Hp, adding an octane booster ie. Methanol, Ethanol, Metho, Acetone etc.to the water could negate the gains achieved with the water, if however whe water injection is used for cooling of the inlet charge as in Turbo'd or supercharged engines the addition of alcohol will enhance the cooling effect as flooding with petrol does in hybrid race cars by changing engine mapping.
 
Would fill the water 3 or 4 times in 500 miles and refuel about twice in the same distance.
Water range, about 150 miles max.
Didn't actually run out of water there Ray, just the first place that came to mind as the worst place for a forced stop.

No Damien I've only heard of what sugar can do. I've also heard that coke is a good degreaser.
What to do with the beer then?

Good point about negating the gains. Lead to a lateral thought:
Still concerned with this water running out problem, the solution could be a manual ignition timing control in the cab. Perhaps a two position (advanced or retarded) switch for ease of use.
It would also skirt the problem of freezing.

retro enough to suit the '03
 
Aaaaah the beer imho the colour & froth are a good indication of where it comes from & there's no way i'd ever try to run my car on piss throw it out man & get some octane booster in ya a_drink a_drink a_drink a_drink a_drink a_drink a_drink cheers!
 
Sugar may well do some damage if in the fuel system... but if introduced at this point, straight into the fire, as it were, I don't see any problem at all...

A good way to dispense with useless Coca Cola, as I see it.
 
Still concerned with this water running out problem, the solution could be a manual ignition timing control in the cab. Perhaps a two position (advanced or retarded) switch for ease of use.
Click to expand...
It might be too newfangled for such a simple design, but Jaycar make a programmable ignition kit.

It allows full customization of the advance curve including a "vacuum advance" option allowing a switchable custom amount of advance.

You'd have to give up cruising economy (ie no actual vacuum advance) but its probably offset by the economy from the water... and you can shut it off at will (or even fix it to automatically cut out if the water hose goes dry.)
 
I've built one of the programmable ignitions as well as two of the high energy ignitions which the programmable unit attaches too. Firstly the electronics are the easy part to assemble, the tricky bit is modifying the rotor button if it's a standard dizzy, no probs if it's hall effect or optical.
The other consideration is the ign needs to be turned off to change the setting to one of the two programmed.

<small>[ 03 November 2002, 10:23 AM: Message edited by: Damien Gardner ]</small>
 
Have any of you built a breakerless ignition? I was going to a while back (using a Silicon Chip article from Jaycar) but it looks like their source of Siemens hall effect sensors has dried up. I don't fancy an infra red optical system as I suspect they'd be less reliable.

Stuey
 
Stuey,
If you have a Bosch dizzy i believe they sell conversion kits.
I have done a conversion on a Bosch R16TS dizzy using the guts from a JD Camira Bosch dizzy, the whole assembly is a neat fit, only needing 3 small holes for the mounting screws the tricky bit was adapting the chopper plate to the distributer shaft of the Renault dizzy my setup being for a computer controlld system not needing Vacuum or centrifugal advance.
I'm not using it yet, if you'd like more info i could pull it tro bits and take some pics & scan them for you. renault_
 
Sorry Damien, mine's a Ducellier. Yeah, I've noticed the Bosch ones, and how universal they are. Not too worried, just a bit of a fun project I had in mind...ah well, at least the points are reliable and easily fixed!

Stuey
 
<small>[ 04 November 2002, 09:15 AM: Message edited by: Gus ]</small>
 
The other consideration is the ign needs to be turned off to change the setting to one of the two programmed.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but if you just wanted to change the amount of static advance for water on/water off, you could do so with the "Vacuum advance" input. You could save the 2 programmed settings for something else.

It's probably worth noting you might need a delay between "water on" (presumably using a solenoid or something) and "ignition advanced", because otherwise there'd be a few revs where you'd be running the extra advance before the water started flowing.

If you wanted to be extra tricky, you could add a thermoswitch so the water stayed off until the car had warmed up (now we're getting far beyond the $5-quick-and-simple design!)
 
thanks Gus, your'e right, too fangled for the '03 but not for my 405.

Going fully auto, I guess the water flow itself (sensor) could be used to change timing.
 
Stuey.
Which motor is it the R16TS when i originally got it had a Ducellier but the bushes were shot the replacement i got from French Connection Was a Bosch dizzy. perhaps there's a Bosch equivalent for yours ?

dance dance
 
Stuey,
Another option would be just using the high energy ignition module it takes the high coil current off the points, which are used to switch a high current Mosfet transistor. Essentially it feeds a higher voltage to the coil thereby giving a higher voltage at the spark plug giving a hotter spark. My Renaults have always been easy to start & with this unit it starts on the first fire of a plug.
 
I had a couple of 16s and seen plenty and I don’t recall ever seeing any fitted with Bosch distributors, although I could be wrong. On the R12s, I believe the earlier ones had Bosch distributors and the later one (from around 1975-1976) had the Duceillier but I’m happy to stand corrected. Perhaps the R12 Bosch distributor will fit the R16 although the advance curves would probably be different.
On the 12 the Bosch distributors were a bit of a nuisance because they were bigger than the Ducellier distributors making it awkward to remove and refit the tappet cover. Otherwise, IMHO, the Bosch were a better distributor and had one major advantage in that the condenser and the wire connections were inside the housing and were less affected by water/oil etc.
I’ve had on of the high-energy ignition modules fitted to my 12 and think they’re well worth considering. In addition to the higher voltage, the module also gives a spark of the same duration and voltage regardless of engine speed and, even with points, the system is not affected by dampness (unless extreme, and don’t get the ignition module wet).
I decided to leave the standard distributor and points set up in my car because it’s easy to change back to the standard points and coil just by disconnecting 2 wires.

Ren
cheers!
 
Damien Gardner:
Another option would be just using the high energy ignition module it takes the high coil current off the points, which are used to switch a high current Mosfet transistor. Essentially it feeds a higher voltage to the coil thereby giving a higher voltage at the spark plug giving a hotter spark. My Renaults have always been easy to start & with this unit it starts on the first fire of a plug.
Click to expand...
The points only get the low tension (12v or 8v) current.
 
Ray Bell
Click to expand...
The points only get the low tension (12v or 8v) current.[/QB][/QUOTE]
Granted Ray,
However the Low tension current is in the order of 5 or more amps, using the electronic ign the points are not part of the secondary circuit as such and the current through the points is only a few milliamps eliminating points spark and consequently points wear. A point worthy of note regarding points wear on the contacts themselves, the depositing of metal from one side to the other by the arcing across the points welding minute particles with each spark, momentarily welding the two contacts together, this in turn places a strain on the rubbing block as the distributor cam forces the points open, causing wear and over time closing the points and upsetting the timing. Another benefit of the electronic ign no need to re-do the timing. On my R8 although checked regularly no change was needed to the timing in 100k km the plugs were re-gapped every 10k km and the timing was perfect again.
 
Damien, its an R12. I've actually got a spare Bosch dizzy somewhere, but I've just refurbished the Ducellier and the spindle bushes had no play whatsoever (amazing after a minimum of 372,000km!) so I'll retain this...

Cheers

Stuey
 
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