Traction Driveshafts

I'm amazed he got them out with that press then. I have the same chinesium 12ton press here .... and broke the thing trying to press CX top ball joints!! I'm thinking I'll keep an eye out for an industrial "BIG" press. They probably aren't much needed in industry any longer. There world is full of parts changers these days, not "rebuilders" :)
 
gerrypro said:
I hope you are pushing the pins out towards the rear of the cradle. When fitted the front silentbloc inner, the lower link arm and the rear silentbloc inner should form a continuous unit pressing against each other.
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Yes, the light 15 manual is quite clear that the splined shafts must be pressed toward the rear and, (I think) you can confirm from the photo that is the direction the press is operating. After disassembly, I did observe there was a very slight taper to the splined shafts.
 
There must be a secret I don't know to fitting those driveshaffts. The left hand shaft (the "good" side :rolllaugh: :rolleyes: )..... I can only get half the split pin through. You can't drill it (instantly snapped drill bitsthat are now stuck) .... but the real problem is you torque down the nut .... and now the damn thing is nowhere near the holes so you can put the split pin through. Let me guess .... I just need to RTFM :clown:

I think someone has used at "pointed" puller at some point and mashed the split pin holes when they have pulled the drum..... but the damn holes not being in the right spot are the real problem!
 
I would consider getting some 26mm diameter shims. The thread is 26 x 1.5 so a 0.1mm thick shim would back off the nut by about 20 degrees of rotation. Pick a shim size to get you to where the nut lines up with the split pin hole at the appropriate torque.
 
DoubleChevron said:
There must be a secret I don't know to fitting those driveshaffts. The left hand shaft (the "good" side :rolllaugh: :rolleyes: )..... I can only get half the split pin through. You can't drill it (instantly snapped drill bitsthat are now stuck) .... but the real problem is you torque down the nut .... and now the damn thing is nowhere near the holes so you can put the split pin through. Let me guess .... I just need to RTFM :clown:

I think someone has used at "pointed" puller at some point and mashed the split pin holes when they have pulled the drum..... but the damn holes not being in the right spot are the real problem!
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The method is to torque the nut down and then further tighten the nut until the split pin holes align with the castellations of the nut.
I is possible to re-drill the split pin holes but it must be done carefully and slowly.
The puller usually has a locating ball machined into the thrust end of the screw. This does crush the centre of the stub axle and squash the split pin hole I drill them out to 3mm.
Use a pin punch to remove the broken drill shank.
 
Re silent bloc pin removal. They will bang out to the rear!. Don't do what I did and not see the tiny grease encrusted grub screw drilled flush through the the lower link arm journal into the splined pin as some sort of anti wear provision. Took a very big press to get it out til I noticed!!
 
Trading Estate said:
Re silent bloc pin removal. They will bang out to the rear!. Don't do what I did and not see the tiny grease encrusted grub screw drilled flush through the the lower link arm journal into the splined pin as some sort of anti wear provision. Took a very big press to get it out til I noticed!!
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That grub screw was not original. Probably put there to stop unwanted movement between the arm and the pin!
 
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