T7 308 RHR Strut Mount play?

X

xlink_nz

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Feb 17, 2011
Messages
258
Location
New Zealand !
Hi all and @seasink

A while back a WoF indicated "Strut Mount play" this wasn't deemed a WoF issue, last month it was noted when we had a sway bar link replaced too but again said not an issue.

In the last few days we have noticed when driving a more noticeable, and now regular but intermitant scapping and or squeaking sound. It becomes more noticable with turning or breaking. The sound doesn't occur when accelerating (yet). If I rock the car side to side we can hear it although sounds different to when one is driving and being inside the car with the engine running. It seems to be on the right hand front side.

1. Could this be the advised "strut mount play" has got worse?
2. I had a look in my venerable ServiceBox and its unclear which repair procedure applies to strut mount play, can someone advise
3. What is the applicable part or could it be as simple as something loose being tighened?
4. Is it a safety issue (so we can prioritise if urgent)
 
Heard from inside, when you rock the car is there a knock at dashboard level? There is a ball thrust bearing in the cap that holds the strut at the top, which allows rotation when turning. They get road dust in them and wear out, hence sideways play.,

Item 3 caps the spring and runs in the bearing item 9. Item 4 hold the bearing at the body and takes the vertical load. 6 is a bump stop.

Replacement is a straightforward job, but requires spring compressors. Never be casual with using these; springs can do you terrible damage.

spring.png
 
@seasink mainly a very noticeable scraping, squeaking sound but there is an occasional small knock on turning or a small bump but not when rocking the car (I suspect it was the small knock they said was ok but the scrapping and squeaking is very recent and very disconcerting esp. to my wife!)

Does the whole shock absorber require to be replaced or is there a kit for the numbered parts (which I now see comes from the Servicebox front spring front torsion bar diagram?)

Is this an urgent safety issue?

@mrpea FYI as I see you had a similar post on your T9
 
I don't know NZ rules, but here movement in the suspension is failure at registration checks. Even if still structurally sound it affects camber and castor. If the squeak is up there, I'd be looking at the bearing.

The strut isn't replaced with the bearing though it would be an easy extra. Wipers and scuttle grille come off for access. The strut and spring assembly has to be removed from the car and the spring compressed so that the bits on top can be got off and replaced. Normally it would be the bearing and a worn cap. Then you release compression and put it all back. There are Youtubes. There's also a KYB YT that shows strut replacement, with a clear view of the mechanic putting back the top bearing.
 
@seasink Thank you for the reply. I won't doing this job but a garage

Do the numbered parts (less spring) in the diagram you shared come as a kit or can be obtained individually if that later than the mechanic will need identify which to be replaced
 
@seasink issue seems resolved. The garage found a lot ot of stones somewhere in the suspension/steering (although I'm not sure exactly where). They said this is a common problem. They even used a air hose to dislodge them.

Is this an issue you've seen?
 
@seasink stones were not the issue. My preferred garage have said (wihtout dismantling) its either the bearing which they said comes with what they call the strut mount kit or sometimes they find the top of the actual strut has had excessive wear too but they won't know for sure until they take apart.

They suggested its best to order in the strut and the strut mount kit as sometimes the struts themselves wear out, have you seen that?
 
It is possible to wear the spring cap 3 as the bearing race rocks around. The outer race is usually tight in its housing. I see no reason to set out to replace the shock absorber strut if it is behaving and not leaking. They usually have a longer life than the bearing.

It's no extra labour to replace the struts at the same time, but the struts can be expensive.
 
@seasink is there anyway to tell how worn the shock absorber is itself or is that only if leaking (part 5208) as opposed to top strut mount and bearing kit?
 
@seasink I found a hatch being dismantled and can get the parts at a good price

My VIN (235K kms) is VF34HRHRJ55293427 (2008 T7 2.0 2.0 wagon) and the RF shock absorber according to Service box for my car is 5208 22
The donor car (58K kms) is VIN VF34C5FTF55197471 (2008 T7 1.6 Hatch) and according to Service box the RF front shock absorber is 5208 06

The top struct assembly (bearing etc) is the same part numbers except the spring itself 5002 TH/TG vs my car 5002 TK

Is this simply that the wagon has a slighly different spec shock and spring but the parts are inter changable (they look the same)
 
One car is a 2.0 wagon, and the other is a 1.6 hatchback. It is quite possible the springs in the two bodies differ in behaviour even if they look similar. There must be some difference in the shocks as the part numbers differ. I imagine the top mount and bearing are the same.

I can't really answer you. Someone like David S may know the differences.
 
It appears 5208 22 & 5208 06 are if I go by numerous ebay listings are compatible likewise aftermarket shocks by Bilstein

@David S any ideas on why 5208 22 (wagon) and 5208 06 (hatch) are different parts numbers?
 
I would expect due to the different amount of mass and perhaps a desire to give the two versions a different road feel. Often, the sway bar diameter can vary too. Aftermarket vendors often list a product that will do the job in multiple applications even if it is not exactly the same as the original part. Mostly they get away with it, but sometimes, it's obviously incorrect. Does the budget for this high kms car allow for replacing the strut tops, bearings and the strut inserts / shocks together? It may be a false economy using the used strut top parts as you have to pay to extract them and they are not expensive parts new. Be mindful that most of the fasteners will be classed as single-use parts - Nyloc nuts, driveshaft nut etc..
 
Spring is reuseable, the top end is another matter.
 
David S said:
Nyloc nuts, driveshaft nu
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply.

My 308 is at 225k kms the donor car 58K kms but good point about how much of the donor strut top parts are classed as single use and presumably may not be reusable or not fitting sway bar. If we need to replace the strut top with new that it is what it is

The top strut bearing we suspect is totally worn out but they said in rare cases the top of the shock can be damaged too, even if the original shock is not damaged they said ideally it should be placed as its at 225K kms
 
All, indications are the issue is the front ball joint as they can see the boot/cover is spilt and a rust colour on the ball itself

Has anyone else had or seen (front) ball joints wear out?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top