nJm:
That sounds very impressive! Mine tends to stuggle below 2400rpm on hills.
Where whould I find an SEIEA carb? Would I need to get one off a recked pug, or could I just go to a parts shop and ask for one? If I need to get one off a car, which model/year of pug were they fitted to?
thanks in advance!
Nick
The Solex SEIEA was the carb fitted to 2 litre 504s up until June 1976. If you go to a Pug Wrecker who happens to have lots of them, then you should be able to find atleast one low mileage one without too much wear.
The advantages of the Solex SEIEA over a Weber are:
-can be put straight on the 505 inlet manifold without having to file it out at all
-fits up to the 505 aircleaner
-already jetted to suit a standard Pug 2 litre (although putting a richer jet in the second throat wouldn't hurt, and may help prevent any possible pinging, you can get a 160 jet (1.6mm)from the second throat of a 1980 model 505 TMIMA, or you can drill it out with a 1/16" drill bit (1.59mm)), you can put the second jet from your TMIMA in it, if the drilled out jet turns out to use too much fuel.
Any good quality 8mm spark leads should be OK (most local parts stores will have some of various lengths).
As far as hoses go this is all you need (everything else can go):
-the hoses going to the fuel pump and carby (of course)
-Vacuum hoses:
-hose from brake booster to inlet manifold
-small hose straight from dissy to carby
-hose from carbon canister (charcoal filter) to inlet manifold (or carby)
-hose from heater controls vacuum reservoir black round thing near air con pipes behing battery on frame rail) to inlet manifold. Most of the T pieces can be eliminated, when you've got just these 4 hoses.
-Water hoses:
-radiator hoses (of course)
-heater hoses (big ones that go into fire wall behind back of head and join the water pump and the side of the head)
-manifold heating hose from end of inlet manifold to T-piece in heater hose, or to extra connection on water pump (if it has one). You don't really need the other water hoses going to that plate thing under the carby, although you might want to leave them, just so it looks all connected (if you keep them, then replace them with new ones, because they are probably the original ones, -same goes for all other water hoses).
-Breather hoses:
-hoses from oil filler cap to inlet manifold and air filter (although I've found that it works OK just with the one to the air filter)
The little plastic valve thingy that sticks out of the end of the inlet manifold with three vacuum lines going to it can be replaced with a plug, or you can cut the plastic off it, fill it with putty, stick a spade terminal in it, and run a wire from it into the firewall, so it looks like it's doing something important(i.e. it doesn't look like you've disconnected something). If that thingy controls the exhaust gas recirculation, and you want to keep it, you may need to leave it (I can't remember, I'll have to check).
It's often a good idea to leave the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), because that's one of the things that the EPA looks for if they inspect your car. The same might apply for the pulse air valves between the head and exhaust manifold, although I have a feeling that not all cars in 1982 had them, so you might be able to ditch them too (check before removing them).
My 505 doesn't have the EGR or pulse air valves at the moment, but I might have to fit them (atleast the EGR probably) before having the car inspected to change the engine number.
I'll be in the Melbourne area in early october, so we can probably meet up and I can show you my engine, and you can have a drive of it to see how it goes.
Dave
<small>[ 01 September 2002, 09:23 PM: Message edited by: fiveohs ]</small>
I do know it always starts first go, even on dead cold winter mornings and as long as you use the choke it drives perfectly, even from cold.
