Sound deadener/insulation.
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David, that sounds like to go! There is a semi tack roll of film they use on new kitchen bench tops that would work a treat. One of my suppliers may have it.For the floorpan, one approach is to lay down plastic and build up a mat of butyl and some of that heavy sound deadener mat sold by JayCar as a first layer that levels out the corrugations in the pressed sheet. Then at least you can remove it if the floorpan gets wet and not having the floor slowly rotting away. I think it would be more of a concern that sticky butyl pads applied to a vertical or overhead panel would fall off on hot day. I guess you have to go by some tests or the experience of others as to what stays on when hot. It's also easy to waste the stuff by putting it everywhere instead of where it matters on panels that are most likely to vibrate and transmit noise.
This Jaycar product is quite a heavy product. Woven bottom with a dimpled vinyl appearance on top.
Heavy Duty Sound Barrier Damping Material - Improved | Jaycar Electronics
Ideal for car audio installations - one of the most hostile environments for housing speakers. Get a clean, vibration and rattle free sound by making a speaker friendly environment with our range of acoustic sound dampening materials.www.jaycar.com.au
Green Stick N Peel Multi Purpose Self Adhesive Film 200m
A multi purpose adhesive plastic film, a industrial 55 micron thick self adhering masking film. A temporary surface protection in applications like protecting finished polyurethane doors, aluminum frames, windows and different surfaces on site in construction, or during transport and installation st
protectivefilm.com.au
Looks like a very handy product. You won't need a 200m roll though. Any plastic sheet would work here. If you are feeling cheap and very cheerful, try salvaging some pallet wrapping plastic as that's usually quite tacky.
I'd have thought that you do need to have the sound deadener glued to the metal or it won't necessarily stop resonances. It might reduce transmitted noise, a slightly different matter.David, that sounds like to go! There is a semi tack roll of film they use on new kitchen bench tops that would work a treat. One of my suppliers may have it.
Green Stick N Peel Multi Purpose Self Adhesive Film 200m
A multi purpose adhesive plastic film, a industrial 55 micron thick self adhering masking film. A temporary surface protection in applications like protecting finished polyurethane doors, aluminum frames, windows and different surfaces on site in construction, or during transport and installation st
The R17 on the underside of the floor have a spray on coating from factory. It is also under the guards and wheel arches. Quite good stuff and I imagine it is for deadening sound, stone hits and give the metal less flex. So some noise is already cancelled. Firewall is probably the main concern like Jensen mentioned.
The sticky film above will adhere to the metals paint finish and is able to be peeled off if needed. We used it on Kitchens when I worked in the industry. If you have bought a product with stainless like a sink, they use that film on those surfaces and adheres quite well. the blue or green stuff.
The sticky film above will adhere to the metals paint finish and is able to be peeled off if needed. We used it on Kitchens when I worked in the industry. If you have bought a product with stainless like a sink, they use that film on those surfaces and adheres quite well. the blue or green stuff.
Ah, now I understand. Interesting info (and thanks again David S!).
Try driving 9,000 km from Perth to a 4CV Muster and home again.......
My wife doesn't like travelling in my R12 because she reckons its to noisy inside, along with missing other creature comforts of modern cars.
I must admit that it is noisier than what modern cars are but I still love driving it.
Could be worse.
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That's one sweet car. I've seen that episodes. The car is straight as a die!
If you haven't seen the episode, find it on youtube on you tv and watch it on the big screen. This one is just amazing if you haven't seen the model 'A' video.
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I admit I am attempting to quieten the din inside my modified 4CV. It doesn't sound to bad from the outside, but inside it resonates quite well. So going to another engine mount design, and have fitted the stick on thin bituminous insulation that has a layer of aluminium included in all places possible including the roof. A remote air filter also will reduce the induction roar. All this is to make the car a more enjoyable machine to drive longer distances in. On the Musters I have taken it to, I have used earplugs for the long driving stints, though far shorter in length compared to those of JohnW and others have completed from Perth.
My tolerant wife fortunately is happy to be driven in the 4CV or any of my machines.
Good work Alan. I'll be interested to see the engine mount design! We've found that even the R8 is getting noisier and noisier. I suspect it is our ears not the car, but it has always had a nasty booming above 3900 rpm. I fitted the same insulation in parts of the R8, but think it needs to be inside the roof and maybe on the fuel tank-engine bay panel too. I'm not about to touch the headlining.... Have you tried noise cancelling headphones?
We did 8700 km towing the 4CV this trip and 9000 km in the R8 for Junee. Filling the back of the R8 with stuff, including soft things like pillows behind the rear seat, certainly helps.
Karen of course is gem quality.
Do you have a sound meter app on your phone Alan? to take before and after readings to see how much of an improvement each change makes. Just be interested by how much these old cars can be quietened down.
The app i'm using is Pro Audio Tools, its free with no ads.
I'm going to do some comparisons in my cars when I find the time.
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Inside the doors would also make a huge difference to the booming.Good work Alan. I'll be interested to see the engine mount design! We've found that even the R8 is getting noisier and noisier. I suspect it is our ears not the car, but it has always had a nasty booming above 3900 rpm. I fitted the same insulation in parts of the R8, but think it needs to be inside the roof and maybe on the fuel tank-engine bay panel too. I'm not about to touch the headlining.... Have you tried noise cancelling headphones?
We did 8700 km towing the 4CV this trip and 9000 km in the R8 for Junee. Filling the back of the R8 with stuff, including soft things like pillows behind the rear seat, certainly helps.
Karen of course is gem quality.
Col, unfortunately I have stripped the car before taking any readings, but at a rough guess at 100Kph around 93dB given the readings I take at work regularly. I guess some of that would also be wind roar as the 4CV is only slightly more aerodynamic than a house brick. Most of the noise is caused by a bodyshell drumming, and there was no deadening in the doors or roof, and I think I removed any that had been in the car previously. I will put some of the sheeting in the doors as well. I will do some noise testing when I have it mobile again.
I had put a radio in the car when I first assembled it, which was mostly useless given the volume of other noises. I have removed it on this incarnation of the 4CV.
John, noise cancelling headphones would tend to diminish the conversation somewhat on the Muster runs, although for many years I travelled alone quite happily. Not sure how legal it is to drive with headphones on, or I guess with ear plugs in as I have done previously.
I had put a radio in the car when I first assembled it, which was mostly useless given the volume of other noises. I have removed it on this incarnation of the 4CV.
John, noise cancelling headphones would tend to diminish the conversation somewhat on the Muster runs, although for many years I travelled alone quite happily. Not sure how legal it is to drive with headphones on, or I guess with ear plugs in as I have done previously.