SOLVED 207 turning over but no spark to plugs

Thanks,
It's an Auto 4 door hatch.
I tried looking up the ECU p/n on a site called ServiceBox but I couldn't see where it showed the ECU part number even though I entered the VIN.
Which is VF3WC5FWF33794816 in case someone has another way of finding it ? :)

Cheers
 
dmccurtayne said:
Did your new mechanic check if the keys are learnt correctly and recognised by the bsi keys just fail ecus don’t normally I would be making sure coolant hasn’t wicked up into the engine ecu and killed it before you replaced anything
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I believe so yes. He was running the PP2000 and initially thought it might have been the Key, but then said that the data showed the BSI was receiving the Key info fine, but when data was sent to the ECU (said waiting) it then came up with a message about not getting the correct data and then posted ECU Locked.
 
Sounds like comm2000 unit is scrambled the bus info to the ecu.
Corrosion on the ecu pins can do this listen to DMC as the 207 has a coolant leaking into the cabling loom which travels to the ecu.
 
@dimistyle When you say - comm2000 unit - do you mean the BSI ? or are you referring to the Comms Unit that has the indicator stick etc all attached ?
If you are referring to that steering wheel unit appreciate if you could elaborate on how that would affect the bus info, as I thought that info was on a channel from the BSI to the ECU ?
 
Comm unit has the antenna to read the RFID chip in the key. Yes steering column control unit. No key identified correctly or identified at all no start. BSI will be locked.

Check fuses on BSI there's a 10A fuse that tends to blow. Otherwise back to corrosion on connectors

Anything being changed prior to this occurring?
 
I note that a common cause of complete engine failure is failure of a solenoid in the engine fuse box. The solenoids are not able to be serviced. Replacement of this unit does not require any reprogramming so a lot simpler than ECU's, BSI's etc.
 
Well I now have another 308 which is a non starter with 2 seperate diagnosis from a mobile mechanic with PP2000 and the local dealer.

But this vehicle has the P1694 coherence fault between the request for start and stop (DAMP)

Dealer said to previous owner its an ECU fault and mobile guy said high pressure fuel pump.

Well not sure why they diagnosed the HPFP but swapped it any way to eliminate that option. I thought that as no engine speed is being shown on live data while cranking it may be the crank angle sensor. What a b!@#$% to reach i haven't swapped it yet as looks like dealer had been there already with the fresh insulation tape on the end of the wiring.

So tomorrow I'll replace the engine ECU/BSI/RFID from the other wagon and report back.

I don't have a spare MED17.4 5FT ECU to clone to so will do the quick swap over and see if the dealer was on the money.

ECU does not look to have any water damage and all pins and sockets are still shiny!
 
Well that was an easy fix. Swapped out ECU and BSI and jumped into action.

So crank sensor was not triggering the ECU and hence no start.

Wasn't looking forward to replacing the crank sensor as this is fitted in the most difficult location.

Any progress on the 207??
 
Thanks to all who posted comments. I gleaned clues and have been able to solve the problem.

What I Did

Afrer running through a CAN bus test video I eliminated more items using those procedures. Everything showed correct per tests.
I then started looking for what I thought might contribute to this problem based on the fact that some sort of signal must be getting fuzzed somewhere along the line either as feedback to the ECU or frmo the BSI to the ECU. Pretty obvious statement I know but I just tackled it differently now I had further info in the "gray matter".

Bottom Line

Pulled all the fuses and sandpapered them back to shiny. Many were oxidized. Unlikey this was a problem as I had pulled them all before, but just in case.

Unplugged the connectors that connected the Oxygen Sensors to the Looms. These two connectors are just at the front near the radiator and just to the right of the first oxygen sensor. I noted there was some oil in there, just a bit, and gave that a good clean out with Carb and Throttle cleaner.

I also found a bad connection to the fuel injector for cylendar 4 I believe (counting from right to left standing in front of the car).
When I say bad, the plastic clip on plug was cracked and I would say there was probably not a connection with that injector.
I would have thought it would just run badly as opposed to not starting at all ?

Anyway, that is all I did, thust those three things, and the car has been running fine since then.

Cheers
 
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