s16 mods....

dino

dino

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ok guys and gals....I ve had the s16 for less than a week and i m already thinking about performance mods on this car....i ve read the puma racing site (which i reffered to often in regards to my 205gti...What i d like to know is what types of mods have u guys performed on your 16 valve motors with reasonable succes....

i ve fitted a new sony head unit, and the brushed aluminum gear knob (which goes well with the sony)....by the way the knob came of easily once i figured the mechanics of it.....u can not twist those things....it was simply a matter of lifting up (pulling up) and the thing came of quite easily....anyway i ve also fitted a mushroom style filter 2 it and while looking at the throtle body i started to wonder if there was a BIGGER unit available...either of a pug or another machine...

I m aware that there are bigger throtles available aftermarket but at about $500 they r not that cheap.....anybody aware of alternatives...
Which also brings me to the topic of the various
pug 16valve engine power outputs....DID the earlier mi16 put out more power? if so---WHY...have these been detuned in any way??

Somebody (i think Peter) mentined advancing the timing on these things by 3 degrees.....further commentary on this would be appriciated....

Also, whats the situation on the coil packs with these cars.....i ve read they fail regularly....any way of reverting to older system or was the mi16 running same set up....i d like to see the ignition side become more reliable any ideas...?

thanks

cheers
dino
 
I too have read that the coil packs go, though I have only had one go in 3 years. I would not expect it to be a simple job of repalcing them with a single coil and HT leads though.

Regarding the S1 Mi engine (XU9J4), in Australian spec it had 108kw, and 116kw in UK spec. The Australian spec had 3 deg or retardation of the inlet cam to improve emissions AFAIK. The S16 engine (XU10J4) does not need the intake cam advanced at all.

Zen is playing with the exhaust cam to see what can be achived that way and with tuning.

Other than the basic bolt on mods like intake and exhaust (which do very little), you would be looking at porting the head, cams, larger throttle body, Unichip and GTI6 extractors to get any significant power increase. I would expect each of these to be around of well over the $1000 mark job complete.
 
...Mods to an S16? you ask. Well what do yo want from the car??
Pesronaly after all the $$$$$'s ive spent these are my fav mods.

*Bette brakes, not cheap but did wonders for fade. Combine EBC greenstuff pads and some sloted disks, for the front only for a good $$-to-gain ratio.
*Wicked tyres. RE Bridgestones or Yokohama A's nice. I can't say enough about good tyres ona 306.
*New engine mounts. The car will feel like new, and be so much smoother. But get a pro shop to do this.
*Full tanks of BP ultimate, and a very good 10-60W oil (15-60W if you can get it).
*Recover the S16 wheel in new black leather, you'll never regret this.
..... and a good set of H4 light bulbs. cheers - chris

ps oh nearly forgot, after making sure the varibale intake actuators are working A1, VERY VERY! carefully adjust the linkage rods so they wind out more. hence you end up with longer rods, i did this and that top end grunt came on a litte earlier and harder too. lurrrv free mods.

<small>[ 30 October 2003, 07:47 PM: Message edited by: CHRI'S16 ]</small>
 
...Mods to an S16? you ask. Well what do yo want from the car??
Pesronaly after all the $$$$$'s ive spent these are my fav mods.

*Bette brakes, not cheap but did wonders for fade. Combine EBC greenstuff pads and some sloted disks, for the front only for a good $$-to-gain ratio.
*Wicked tyres. RE Bridgestones or Yokohama A's nice. I can't say enough about good tyres ona 306.
*New engine mounts. The car will feel like new, and be so much smoother. But get a pro shop to do this.
*Full tanks of BP ultimate, and a very good 10-60W oil (15-60W if you can get it).
*Recover the S16 wheel in new black leather, you'll never regret this.
..... and a good set of H4 light bulbs. cheers - chris
 
CHRI'S16:
ps oh nearly forgot, after making sure the varibale intake actuators are working A1, VERY VERY! carefully adjust the linkage rods so they wind out more. hence you end up with longer rods, i did this and that top end grunt came on a litte earlier and harder too. lurrrv free mods.
Click to expand...
My bad... I always harp on about how important these are. Chris, interesting mod, I'll have to give it a try. How much did you wind them out by?

And brake...how silly of me. Im my mind it was the best $400 I spent. EBC greens all around, slotted DBA disks and DOT4+ brake fluid.

The good thing about spending money on brakes and suspension is that you feel the difference in every day driving and in most aspects of a spirited drive.

I am a firm believer in make sure the engine is working in correct order and the right oils and plugs are being used before changing anything.

<small>[ 30 October 2003, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: Brad ]</small>
 
i haven t looked at the DBA catalogue yet....but i will DEFINITELY be getting new rotors (crossdrilled/slotted if available)....and since i work at autobarn these (and pads) will be unbelievably cheap....I still have to chase up that strut....but at the moment i m really infatuated with the idea of a larger throtle body....i m also curious about ignition upgrades....i haven t done the service yet but have gone through the engine bay and reconnected a couple loose electrical connections and hoses...replaced a couple blown fuses 2....i m going to leave the service till sunday...will probably be doing a coolant change 2...she s coming together nicely....

cheers
dino

ps....must admit...although the speakers are original...they r quite nice for stock units...what have u guys upgraded 2?....
 
DBA may not list S16 (or GTI6) brakes in their catalogue, but can be custom made. That's what I'll be doing.
 
dino:
the brushed aluminum gear knob
Click to expand...
hmmm we've had interesting discussions about getting gear knobs off before.

is this new one the N5 306 brushed aluminum gear knob? My car missed out on that! I've got the boring N3 black plastic one. Where'd you get the new one and how much?

Derek.

(edit) for a laugh
<a href="http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001042" target="_blank">http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001042</a>
<a href="http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000743" target="_blank">http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000743</a>
<a href="http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001321" target="_blank">http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001321</a>

Anyone'd think we have gearknob hysteria

<small>[ 31 October 2003, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: DeKa ]</small>
 
GTI124:
DBA may not list S16 (or GTI6) brakes in their catalogue, but can be custom made. That's what I'll be doing.
Click to expand...
DBA do make disks for S16's, they are product No. DBA274SL/R. ($137ea) These are listed as 405 items, however they are identical as EBC list the S16 and 406 as the same model.

These are not cross drilled, only slotted. Even the EBC's are not cross drilled, only dimpled. I am not aware of any reasonably prices disks for the 306 which are fully cross drilled. In any case I have yet to find the limit of my brakes even with VERY hard use at Queensland Raceway.
 
DBA's are $120 for std vented rotor they then have the crossed drilled but was told by even the Autobarn owner to keep away!

Brembo's were about $125 from a place someone on here recommended in Western Sydney.

The slotted EBC are great although noisy buggers with window open :D
 
As far as <a href="http://www.autospeed.com" target="_blank">www.autospeed.com</a> show, DBA dont make smooth rotors, however given the slots are simply a machining of smooth rotors I am sure they'd be available. There are no DBA cross drilled rotors which fit the S16.

My DBA's do have some noise, though no where near as much as the EBC's. I can say that the DBA's are heavier and seem to have more meat in them generally.

I have heard that EBC greens dont get on too well with DBA's though I have not seen any sign of this. They seem to be wearing well even after 2 track days.

DBA do make GTI6 disks, DBA275 for the front and DBA276 for the rear, however Autospeed doesnt list a price for them.
 
Two mods you need... cameleon paint and bright neon lights. It makes the car look fully sick and pulls the chicks, bro. roll_lau j/k

Agreed with most everything that's been said. My pug's going in Thursday for it's first service on since the new engine bits and having the adjustments to the exhaust timing. I've got EBC slotted/dimpled with EBC greenstuff on fronts, I'll get greenstuff on the rears when they start going. I still think the green cotton pod filter was a worthwhile investment.

Any sort of cross drilling is going to weaken anything so you'd think DIY cross drilling wouldn't be good for rotors not specifically designed to be cross drilled.

Off topic, but I gotta tell you guys... got a friend who's got a Chrysler Neon (did you know those things weigh 1500kg?) and is looking to trade it in. Anyways, he took a Citreon C3 for a test drive and he was very impressed (as he should be) but he was saying the 1.6L had so much power. I really need to give him a ride in the S16. :D

Rich
 
Brad:
DBA do make GTI6 disks, DBA275 for the front and DBA276 for the rear, however Autospeed doesnt list a price for them.
Click to expand...
Thanks Brad, you wouln't happen to know if they're grooved, would you? I have a feeling these are just OEM replacements and not a performance rotor.
 
Zen:
Off topic, but I gotta tell you guys... got a friend who's got a Chrysler Neon (did you know those things weigh 1500kg
Click to expand...
Yeah, with a boot full of cement bags :) . All the American literature says they're about 1130-1160kg for the Mk1 version and something like 1200kg for the Mk2. If they were really 1500kg they wouldn't be as popular car in the club motorsport scene in the US as they are.

Dave
 
Brad:
CHRI'S16:
ps oh nearly forgot, after making sure the varibale intake actuators are working A1, VERY VERY! carefully adjust the linkage rods so they wind out more. hence you end up with longer rods, i did this and that top end grunt came on a litte earlier and harder too. lurrrv free mods.
Click to expand...
My bad... I always harp on about how important these are. Chris, interesting mod, I'll have to give it a try. How much did you wind them out by?

And brake...how silly of me. Im my mind it was the best $400 I spent. EBC greens all around, slotted DBA disks and DOT4+ brake fluid.

The good thing about spending money on brakes and suspension is that you feel the difference in every day driving and in most aspects of a spirited drive.

I am a firm believer in make sure the engine is working in correct order and the right oils and plugs are being used before changing anything.
Click to expand...
...reguarding the intake actuators, Im finding my self forgeting EXACTLY what i did, its a try it and drive it thing... but its not a BIG change, just noticable.
Im suprised Lincon (gti124) hasn't recommended good tyres yet?
As for brakes, ill be out of my element commending DBA's but my EBC pads and disks all rouns is excelent! several track meets, and only 1 pad change later 7,000K's and still work a treat!... how ever EBC's are dimpled and slotted NOT cross drilled, its now a general belief that CROSS drilled rotors are to be made so, and not drilled later as it supposedly weakens the rotor.
cheers - chris

ps, the stock stereo is a shambles, after a $350 battery and terminals that was my next/1st mod.

<small>[ 05 November 2003, 06:19 PM: Message edited by: CHRI'S16 ]</small>
 
Well, I think there are enough threads talking about the different tyres available in 195/55R15. Here is the thread where I listed every tyre I know of in that size:

<a href="http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001591" target="_blank">http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001591</a>
 
GTI124:
Brad:
DBA do make GTI6 disks, DBA275 for the front and DBA276 for the rear, however Autospeed doesnt list a price for them.
Click to expand...
Thanks Brad, you wouln't happen to know if they're grooved, would you? I have a feeling these are just OEM replacements and not a performance rotor.
Click to expand...
I had the front rotors replaced with DBA items. Groved units were $50 extra per side (I think?)and you may need to wait.

the problem is that DBA make batches, and until new batch is made you may need to wait. Talk to DBA Steve on Perf forums as to the availability. You might be able to twist his ear hard enough for them to make a batch.

--edit--
are you experiencing brake fade? I have to say that apart from making he rotors nice and purple with greenstuff pads (they run very hot for a road pad). Grooved or X-drilled rotors might help the heat dissisipation.
But doing both X-Drilling and groving is not recommended apart from the "style" point of view. I dont think u'd be doing that anyway. wink

<small>[ 05 November 2003, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: tekkie ]</small>
 
Yeah, was just going to do grooved only. I think that's what you're saying there...or are you saying you don't think even grooved is worth it?
 
I would expect that regardless of whether you choose ONLY slotted or ONLY grooved, you are going to have more braking power than you need when you match them with good pads. Lie I said before, with DBA grooved and EBC greens I have yet to notice any ounce of fade. Infact the deeper I keep going into corners at QR, the better the brakes feel.

The DBA rotors did make a huge difference to the cold stopping power though as the EBC greens are quite 'un-bighty' when cold.
 
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