Renault R8/10 dual master replacement

Suggest the answer was probably cylinder one was set up for drum brakes & second was for disc brakes - OR - there was insufficient pedal free travel on the first & by some coincidence adequate on the second.
Starting to look like another mystery not solved ???
Even though the owner may have fixed whatever was his issue, what was suggested was a diagnostic sequence that would have immediately identified the problem for the owner.

My point being parts changing, trying to solve easily diagnosed problems is both expensive & time consuming.

Hopefully the diagnostic sequence may help other members @ some time or another. JG.
 
Ringer all sounds good but being 8 hours away and never seen the car in person plus they already changed out the master and seems to be now working I don't think they want to play with it any longer but if it was mine I still would want to know why it dose not work and get to the bottom of it . From the pictures of the master I seen it did not look like residual valves where in it ! so maybe it could have been adjustment of the rod ??

Starting to look like another mystery not solved ???

thanks again
Manic gt .
Be interesting if they'd post the problem MC to you for dismantling (in your spare time of course.... :) )
 
Be interesting if they'd post the problem MC to you for dismantling (in your spare time of course.... :) )
John would have loved to be able to have the kangoo old master to take apart or at least inspect maybe some day in the future if I will be able to get my hands on it to check it out ! I personally will be trying out the 19mm dual VW master from a 1970 bug it is still cheap and lots available plus it comes with a upgraded disc brake option if you as for it .

thanks again

Manic gt
 
I've had this problem as well. It was due to insufficient free travel at the pedal. This blocks the return hole and after a few applications the heat expands the fluid and the brakes jam on. There needs to be a couple of mm of slack before the rod starts to move the master cyl pistons. Frans mentioned this early on.
 
I've had this problem as well. It was due to insufficient free travel at the pedal. This blocks the return hole and after a few applications the heat expands the fluid and the brakes jam on. There needs to be a couple of mm of slack before the rod starts to move the master cyl pistons. Frans mentioned this early on.
Agree, has been discussed before on various threads in AF. Common mistake, simple fix.
 
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