R25 box conversion urgent info.

deja vu 25

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Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jan 22, 2002
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Location
Canberra
Hi All

I was under the impression that when changing the auto box to a manual, that by removing the auto trans computer would have no effect on the injectionetc. The guys doing my car say that the starter and load switch are wired into that auto computer, and that they have a different wiring loom, compared to the manuals.

Can anyone shed any light on this one?

Thanks

Luke
 
The multi function switch on the auto does isolate the starter circut to stop it starting drive. I would imagine it would simply be a case of bridging two terminals on the plug that connects the starter circut containing loom to the trans computer/multifunction switch loom to close the circut permantly. Sit down with a big cup of coffee and the circut diagrams and figure out which wires need to be connected. If I had my manual on hand I'd tell you, as I will need to know shortly, and I forgot about that part of the conversion :rolleyes: .
Did your mechanic find the up until now unused loom and plug for the manual reverse light switch. Mine has it from the factory (cheaper to make a one loom fits all at the factory I guess) and it is connected and works.
 
Hi Haakon

Yes, figured that would be the case.

They are also having to rig up a reverse light connection.

Yeah, they guys figured that they would need to find the right terminals to connect. Hopefully it will not be hard for them

Cheers and thanks
 
FWIW the manual trans "computer" is different from the auto trans "computer". Just another one of the hassles that put me off buying a 25 with a blown auto some years ago.....
 
Not sure how different it will be, but on my V6 auto, the cut off switch was mounted at the base of the selector lever itself, inside the car. A simple microswitch, easily bypassed if neccessary.
 
Hi Luke - re. the reverse light, yours in an ULP model like mine, so have a look for the inbuilt manaul trans reverse light connection - it should come out of the main loom near the brake master cylinder, and is probably tucked away inside the crossmember the steering is mounted on - it should be there. If it isnt, simply run the lead from the switch up to the plug that used to connect to the trans computer, where the second reverse light input is. But they shouldnt go to any more trouble than that and try to reinvent the wheel as it were.

Europa, you may well be right, but the MJ3 boxes (which are a bit more "computerised" than the 4144 in the V6) in Fuegos did - just check the circut diagrams, should be easy to do either way without any tricky wiring or cutting of factory wiring (something I hate doing - always best to apply the KISS principle, and not go around something if I cant figure out how it works)

I had a look at my manual trans, and it is defianantly an NG series. The positive I can see is that there are more bits available from the heaps of wrecked Fuegos around :D

<small>[ 29 October 2003, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: Haakon ]</small>
 
Simon:
FWIW the manual trans "computer" is different from the auto trans "computer". Just another one of the hassles that put me off buying a 25 with a blown auto some years ago.....
Manual trans computer? The only trans computer in the manuals is the one in the drivers seat :D
Engine computer should be the same (as is the climate control one and the trip :D )
 
Haakon:
Engine computer should be the same (as is the climate control one and the trip :D )
I was meaning the engine management computer. If the engine management computers are indeed the same, auto to manual, why was it a different part number in the Renault catalogue de pieces d'origine?
 
I did notice the different part numbers when comparing as well, and just put it down to a different build year (my manaul and auto car were built 8 months apart). I do know the engine runs with a auto engine computer in a manual car, as I did a swap once trying to sort a non starting problem (which ended up being the coil). But they may indeed run a different timing curve for the injection and/or ignition to tune the motor to its transmission.
I will try each computer when I do my conversion and see what happens wink
 
Hi Haakon

Thanks, I will get them to check for that plug tomorrow, or use the old plug from the auto trans computer. Much appreciated.

Luke
 
Hey Luke, how did you go with gear linkages, fitting an early setup into an ULP car? I noticed this morning when I was stripping out the manual gearbox etc out of my spare car that the selector linkage has a serious bend in it to reach around the catalytic converter. Did you need a custoum link made (or ditch the cat :D )?
 
No, the original UN! linkage worked a treat. Comes close but managesd to fit well.

The pedal box was a pain, as the top bolt hole that holds the clutch and brake pedals is a smaller diameter on the manual that on the auto. Therefore the hole to fit it to the fire wall had to be drilled! Unfortunately it is very hard to see up that high in near darkness and took some time to work out.

But now the car is brillian with the new box and all.
However, it has developed a clunk, when I take off, or slow down. Basically when I accelerate or decellerate. Not sure what is causing this? Any ideas? It may be a loose bolt on the gearbox mount or suspension assembly??
 
LukeCass:
However, it has developed a clunk, when I take off, or slow down. Basically when I accelerate or decellerate. Not sure what is causing this? Any ideas? It may be a loose bolt on the gearbox mount or suspension assembly??
Is it that gear linkage hitting the catalytic converter?? :)

Could be anything with a conversion where it wasn't there before. Look at things touched with the conversion, mounts that may have stressed and broken with the motor being pushed and prodded around fitting the gearbox. Lower wishbone bushes that were marginal before etc etc....

<small>[ 05 November 2003, 01:06 PM: Message edited by: Simon ]</small>
 
Simon said:
Is it that gear linkage hitting the catalytic converter?? :)

Could be anything with a conversion where it wasn't there before. Look at things touched with the conversion, mounts that may have stressed and broken with the motor being pushed and prodded around fitting the gearbox. Lower wishbone bushes that were marginal before etc etc....

<small>[ 05 November 2003, 01:06 PM: Message edited by: Simon ]</small>


I have dropped it off to the guys that did the conversion. They can sort it out!
 
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