Thats him! Dunno where I got the president thing from, but he has a UN1 trans/shafts/pedals etc for sale, as well as 2 good R25s - one auto and one manual I think. I told him to try the Lotus clubs too to sell it, so dont know if hes still got it, but this was only a couple of weeks ago.
R25 being considered...
- Thread starter Rich@rdS
- Start date
Haakon said:Not so much swish for an 80s car as extremly 80s full stop!I think of it as my mobile piece of 80s retro chic
And the voice is such a crack up - "warning - your ass is on fire!"
After sitting in the R25 today, I'll agree that it definitely oozes with the 80s! I like that sort of thing though so it's all good
Here are my rough findings:
A plate in the engine bay said "May 1985" so I guess its an older model that originally ran leaded, although the owner said he runs it on unleaded. I couldn't see a "Renault Injection" stamp anywhere either which seems to back this up.
The interior and exterior are in excellent shape for its age. Still has it's original blue metallic paint that is only starting to thin on the roof, everywhere else still looks great. I couldn't find any rust. Seats are in great shape with no tears. The dash is a bit sunburnt and has lost some of its "fluff".
The trip computer still works as does the "voice", although some of the gauges in the instrument cluster didn't work, including the speedo. Wipers didn't work either. I didn't get to try the climate control as the blower fan made scary noises when I tried switching it on, but the temperature display in the centre of the dash seemed to be indicating the cabin temperature correctly. Radio seemed to work well. Windows and central locking worked. I really should have tried pressing every button I could find, but there were just so many!
In the engine bay, all fluids/oils seemed to look good. The engine did seem a bit oily around the sump area but I didn't notice any pools of oil on the ground beneath it. The owner said the only leak is a slight one from the transmission. CV boots were fine, but a steering rack boot is split and it was a bit oily around that area. The owner said there's a problem with the alternator not charging properly and this was confirmed by the "voice" in the car telling us to check the belt and go to the nearest service station...
When I started the car, there didn't seem to be any unusual noises coming from the engine. The exhaust has a noisy leak somewhere which the owner previously told me about.
The test drive was interesting. Brakes seemed OK although the rotors probably need machining. Steering was OK but lighter than I'm used to in my 505. The engine temp seemed to take some time to get up to half way, about 10 mins.
My concern is that I think the transmission does need some attention. It tended to clunk going from 2nd to 3rd, and downshifts seemed harsh. Once when slowly coming to a stop at some lights, it repetitively felt like it wanted to downshift but then didn't, so we slightly bunnyhopped to a stop.
The owner is willing to take into account a replacement alternator and exhaust repair into the final price which is nice, and he does seem like a genuine guy. While there is a fair bit to fix up, I generally feel good about getting it. I can tackle all the general electrical stuff myself, so I can see us having to fix the alternator, exhaust, steering boot and transmission.
So, sorry for the long post
but what do you guys think? Is it worth it? Does the transmission sound like it needs replacing or could it just need a flush or something? I guess if even we did have to spend $2000 on the trans, $3000 all up isn't too bad for a 25 in this condition, or is it?Cheers guys
Richard
transmission.
So, sorry for the long post but what do you guys think? Is it worth it? Does the transmission sound like it needs replacing or could it just need a flush or something? I guess if even we did have to spend $2000 on the trans, $3000 all up isn't too bad for a 25 in this condition, or is it?
Cheers guys
Richard[/QUOTE]
Keep looking
So, sorry for the long post
but what do you guys think? Is it worth it? Does the transmission sound like it needs replacing or could it just need a flush or something? I guess if even we did have to spend $2000 on the trans, $3000 all up isn't too bad for a 25 in this condition, or is it?Cheers guys
Richard[/QUOTE]
Keep looking
BogMaster said:Keep looking
Really??
BogMaster said:transmission.
So, sorry for the long post
Cheers guys
Richard
Keep looking
[/QUOTE]would the transmission be too far gone you think for a nulon treatment ?
i have used nulon on a few auto and manual boxes over the years and all have improved and kept on going
the only box we could never save was one in my sisters 504 she had once. her boyfriend at the time drove the car as it were a manual and basically ripped the clutches out of it and they were left in shards in the chest of the tranny
even the VH commode i had i put nulon in the 5spd and it made the car much better. it was nearly worth driving after the nulon went in
Transmission not to be condemned on those symptoms, which are those of a dud vacuam capsule. This is also where the leak is likely to be from.
Mine is generally harsh on the 2nd to 3rd change when cold, but is fine when warm, and this was a lot worse before I adjusted the capsule (it adjusts hydraulic pressure for the clutch pack according to engine load - ie manifold vacuam)
Furry dash (ditched on later models) = early leaded model = no climate = lots of emmission control stuff to play up = dodgy twin throttle butterflys.
You have assume a few hundred in rebuilt speedo and guage repairs (will probably be less). Check for sure if the power steering is leaking - poke a finger inside the boot and it should come out with no red fluid on it, check around the valve body as well. Rebuild kits can be had from the UK for ~$150 if youre game to tackle it yourself, and $100 to rechrome the rack shaft if its been left with dud boot on the left side and scratched the chrome, causing leaks.
Alternators spit regulators relativly often - will cost $80 - 90 for new regulator and ~$80 for new bearings and machining commutator.
A good registered early R25 with no real faults is worth maybe 3 grand. Sounds like you may want to keep looking (unless you can get it for 500 bucks and are happy to put the time in) and get John Maesfeild number from Dave at French connection.
Mine is generally harsh on the 2nd to 3rd change when cold, but is fine when warm, and this was a lot worse before I adjusted the capsule (it adjusts hydraulic pressure for the clutch pack according to engine load - ie manifold vacuam)
Furry dash (ditched on later models) = early leaded model = no climate = lots of emmission control stuff to play up = dodgy twin throttle butterflys.
You have assume a few hundred in rebuilt speedo and guage repairs (will probably be less). Check for sure if the power steering is leaking - poke a finger inside the boot and it should come out with no red fluid on it, check around the valve body as well. Rebuild kits can be had from the UK for ~$150 if youre game to tackle it yourself, and $100 to rechrome the rack shaft if its been left with dud boot on the left side and scratched the chrome, causing leaks.
Alternators spit regulators relativly often - will cost $80 - 90 for new regulator and ~$80 for new bearings and machining commutator.
A good registered early R25 with no real faults is worth maybe 3 grand. Sounds like you may want to keep looking (unless you can get it for 500 bucks and are happy to put the time in) and get John Maesfeild number from Dave at French connection.
Last edited:
silverexec said:Really??
Yep really, you will find a much better vehicle for that kind of money if you keep looking. 25's are beautiful vehicles but they can have problems as outlined elsewhere here.
Ewan's 25 is still sitting out at Womboin (near ACT). It looks like a better proposition to me. The photos are on here, http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6019. He wants $500 including a pile of good parts. I offered him $250 which he hasn't bitten on. Anyway for $500 and $450 to freight it to Melbourne ( checked that one out recently when I was trying to negotiate a 25 purchase myself) you would still be ahead on what you are currently looking at.
Last edited:
and as I've offered a few times now, I am happy to get my pedals from my manual car copied (for use on a modified? auto pedal box) as they are out of the car awaiting my trans conversion. They are for a cable clutch, so you can use a Fuego gearbox, clutch, bellhousing, flywheel.
My manual shafts are a mere 1/2 - 1 cm longer than the auto ones, so I reckon the auto shafts will take that much extension happiely.
But if that Canberra one is still there, it looks like a good buy. I would only consider the one you are looking at if offered registered with a RWC for a 3 figure price - cruel but fair given a clunky trans that may be or may not be OK.
My manual shafts are a mere 1/2 - 1 cm longer than the auto ones, so I reckon the auto shafts will take that much extension happiely.
But if that Canberra one is still there, it looks like a good buy. I would only consider the one you are looking at if offered registered with a RWC for a 3 figure price - cruel but fair given a clunky trans that may be or may not be OK.
GavinS said:
I think I have a heavier right foot than you
- I get 11 - 12 l/100 km around town and ~9 on country trips using PULP. :adrink: Driven sensibly, 9- 10 on ULP is about right, better with PULP. If I drive within the speed limit in the country and be gentle with the throttle, I can get it down to ~7.5 l/ 100km on 98 PULP, 8.5 on ULP.
That blue metallic is a great colour, but as it is starting to get a bit fuzzy on the roof, if the car is kept out doors it will deteriorate very quickly, the supergloss clear coat deteriorating to danduff. Making it a $1-2K car afterwards even if you spend your estimated $1-2K of repairs.
How did the service history pan out? Regular specialist servicing or sporadic set of receipts from the local grease pit. Squeaky clean coolant bottle or one that is stained with brown speckled coolant. The service history may give an indication of the trans condition if you can find it it has been overhauled at any time. Also check the trans colour it should be a nice clear colour (red or orange depending on the fluid inside) not blackish or burnt.
The changing down as it comes to a stop is more or less normal, depending on the severity of the change and what you call bunnyhopping, it usually goes back through 3-2-1 when coming to a stop.
Sure the purchase price is only low, but parts for these cars are not too common everywhere, and if the car does need a trans in the very near future it could turn into an expensive project. If you got say 2-3 reliable years out of it it probably wouldn't be too bad after spending the $1-2K renovation plus $1K purchase cost.
What sort of Pug 505 would you get for $3K (or $1K plus $2K renovation)? Presuming the modern comforts of auto/air/steer are required. It would be a known quantity for you and parts seem more common.
How did the service history pan out? Regular specialist servicing or sporadic set of receipts from the local grease pit. Squeaky clean coolant bottle or one that is stained with brown speckled coolant. The service history may give an indication of the trans condition if you can find it it has been overhauled at any time. Also check the trans colour it should be a nice clear colour (red or orange depending on the fluid inside) not blackish or burnt.
The changing down as it comes to a stop is more or less normal, depending on the severity of the change and what you call bunnyhopping, it usually goes back through 3-2-1 when coming to a stop.
Sure the purchase price is only low, but parts for these cars are not too common everywhere, and if the car does need a trans in the very near future it could turn into an expensive project. If you got say 2-3 reliable years out of it it probably wouldn't be too bad after spending the $1-2K renovation plus $1K purchase cost.
What sort of Pug 505 would you get for $3K (or $1K plus $2K renovation)? Presuming the modern comforts of auto/air/steer are required. It would be a known quantity for you and parts seem more common.
Having said all that, if its a good body/interior/engine and you are not afraid of some mucking about, go for it. They are a bloody nice car that is defiently something that gives a lot of satisfaction and is a bit out of the ordianary. No one buys an R25 for a cheap shopping trolly. I'm not sure it could really be called a classic car yet, but it defianantly an enthusiasts car in that it is something only a lover of oddball cars will buy and use. It would be great for someone who likes to tinker with cars - if you are paying someone else to work on it, you might be better off with something mainstream.
Get all the contacts for bits (ie Carrevelle, french connection (dave might even have a good s/h trans if it comes to that), EAI etc), workshop manual and some free weekends and it will be good project.
Unless you are lucky, any old french car like this is going to cost you more than its realistically worth in the long run, but its a labour of love
The one John Maesfeild is selling is apprently a very nice one with a fresh auto in it, but he is of course asking a bit more for it. But you have to think about how much your time is worth, and will you end up spending that much anyway.
But at that price, its not a major loss if it turns out to be dog (get a Fuego and use its 2.2 motor in it ) In the short term, the thing to think about is the roadworthy - get it with one, or make darn sure you know what it needs for one.
He will no doubt be keen to offload it, so bargain a price that includes him organising the RWC.
Get all the contacts for bits (ie Carrevelle, french connection (dave might even have a good s/h trans if it comes to that), EAI etc), workshop manual and some free weekends and it will be good project.
Unless you are lucky, any old french car like this is going to cost you more than its realistically worth in the long run, but its a labour of love
The one John Maesfeild is selling is apprently a very nice one with a fresh auto in it, but he is of course asking a bit more for it. But you have to think about how much your time is worth, and will you end up spending that much anyway.
But at that price, its not a major loss if it turns out to be dog (get a Fuego and use its 2.2 motor in it
) In the short term, the thing to think about is the roadworthy - get it with one, or make darn sure you know what it needs for one.He will no doubt be keen to offload it, so bargain a price that includes him organising the RWC.
Last edited:
Alternatives...
saw photos of this car a year ago (I think its the same one), and its still for sale so might be open to offers. Looked pretty clean and respectable. resprayed (inc. bumpers in body colour), alarm
Renault 25 GTX, 1985, sedan, eng no.F0042790, good to drive, good car, $1,800 (0402)933992 (03)88122863 Blackburn
This has been for sale at this car yard for nearly 2 years, looked very clean and original, but a bit overpriced for a Fuego without pwr steering. By this stage they would be open to offers!
Renault Fuego 1984 White, Coupe Manual, 12 months reg, air con, pwr steer, pwr window CAT-788 $2990 GT Motors. 632 Dorset Road, Bayswater Ph 0410 709 705 LMCT7733
This looks like another bargain - wave 4 grand cash under his nose and he will bite. These are sensational in manual form - very moddable and reliable. photo on carpoint.com.au
1988 RENAULT 21 TXE
Engine Size: 4 cylinder
Fuel Type: Petrol
Transmission: Manual
Body Type: Sedan
Colour: Blue
Reg: DTQ 610
Location VIC Australia
Price AUD$5,570
Vehicle ID Code: CW2404811-113-DTQ610
Description Features air conditioning, power steering, electric mirrors, electric windows, RWC, 1 year warranty. Call Kerry on 0414 738 688.
Dealer Name: Glenn Cooper Motors P/L
Address: 296 Sydney Road
Coburg VIC 3058
Australia
Phone BH: +61 3 9386 9588
I would look at these, as chances are they wont need anything major done to them, will registered and roadworthied and ready to enjoy. The R25 you are looking at will no doubt cost this much in the long run and take up time.
saw photos of this car a year ago (I think its the same one), and its still for sale so might be open to offers. Looked pretty clean and respectable. resprayed (inc. bumpers in body colour), alarm
Renault 25 GTX, 1985, sedan, eng no.F0042790, good to drive, good car, $1,800 (0402)933992 (03)88122863 Blackburn
This has been for sale at this car yard for nearly 2 years, looked very clean and original, but a bit overpriced for a Fuego without pwr steering. By this stage they would be open to offers!
Renault Fuego 1984 White, Coupe Manual, 12 months reg, air con, pwr steer, pwr window CAT-788 $2990 GT Motors. 632 Dorset Road, Bayswater Ph 0410 709 705 LMCT7733
This looks like another bargain - wave 4 grand cash under his nose and he will bite. These are sensational in manual form - very moddable and reliable. photo on carpoint.com.au
1988 RENAULT 21 TXE
Engine Size: 4 cylinder
Fuel Type: Petrol
Transmission: Manual
Body Type: Sedan
Colour: Blue
Reg: DTQ 610
Location VIC Australia
Price AUD$5,570
Vehicle ID Code: CW2404811-113-DTQ610
Description Features air conditioning, power steering, electric mirrors, electric windows, RWC, 1 year warranty. Call Kerry on 0414 738 688.
Dealer Name: Glenn Cooper Motors P/L
Address: 296 Sydney Road
Coburg VIC 3058
Australia
Phone BH: +61 3 9386 9588
I would look at these, as chances are they wont need anything major done to them, will registered and roadworthied and ready to enjoy. The R25 you are looking at will no doubt cost this much in the long run and take up time.
Last edited:
Well, you guys have really given us some things to think about. The owner is selling it registered until June but without RWC. He said he was willing to keep the car in his wife's name after we buy it so we are able to get it roadworthy for a RWC. I don't think he'd be willing to get it roadworthied for us as he's got a broken leg and it would probably be a bit difficult for him... I'm sure he'd sell it for less than $1k though.
It really does sound like a fair bit of work. I wouldn't mind having a project car but taking into account the possible costs mentioned so far to get the car up to scratch, as well as all the transfer/registration/stamp duty costs, our budget is really going to be stretched. Then factor in the costs of my brother paying $50 per week to take the train to the city while the car's off the road being fixed and it's not looking good. I'll only really have weekends to do any major work on it as I work during the day, so the car's going to be off the road for ages. I do enjoy tinkering, but only to a point - at this moment I don't feel competent enough to replace the steering boot, or change the timing belt myself among other things. I can do brakes, adjust timing, solve electrical problems, cooling, other minor mechanical work. Everything else would be left to the mechanics. $$$$
It's a hard decision because geez, the body and interior was good and the blue is a beautiful colour. However, it looks like it is probably best if we kept looking. Something with a good body and interior and less mechanical issues would be good.
In regards to the alternatives like a 505, Fuego, etc. My brother seems to have his heart set on a 25 as he likes their looks, features, comfort, and the price they can be had for.
We were considering Ewan's 25 in the ACT - the trans in that is in good condition is it? Haakon, do you know how much that John Maesfield fellow's 25s are selling for, its colour and the colour of the Blackburn one is?
Cheers guys,
Richard
The service history comprised of him saying that he carried out oil changes every 5000kms and filter changes every 10000kms. He had a stack of receipts of work done by Virage motors in Melbourne for various items over the past 2 years such as alternator work, new belts, new Koni rear shocks, and other minor things. He hadn't had any transmission work done and didn't know when its last service was, and also didn't know when the timing belt was last serviced. The coolant was green but wasn't really bright, could have been some very faint brown streaks in there - more like a film on the surface of the coolant. The trans fluid colour was normal. Simon, when driving it, the trans didn't just change down when coming to a stop, you could hear that it repetitively tried to change down but then not change - the engine would rev up slightly and then drop as it would go back into top gear.
It really does sound like a fair bit of work. I wouldn't mind having a project car but taking into account the possible costs mentioned so far to get the car up to scratch, as well as all the transfer/registration/stamp duty costs, our budget is really going to be stretched. Then factor in the costs of my brother paying $50 per week to take the train to the city while the car's off the road being fixed and it's not looking good. I'll only really have weekends to do any major work on it as I work during the day, so the car's going to be off the road for ages. I do enjoy tinkering, but only to a point - at this moment I don't feel competent enough to replace the steering boot, or change the timing belt myself among other things. I can do brakes, adjust timing, solve electrical problems, cooling, other minor mechanical work. Everything else would be left to the mechanics. $$$$
It's a hard decision because geez, the body and interior was good
and the blue is a beautiful colour. However, it looks like it is probably best if we kept looking. Something with a good body and interior and less mechanical issues would be good.In regards to the alternatives like a 505, Fuego, etc. My brother seems to have his heart set on a 25 as he likes their looks, features, comfort, and the price they can be had for.
We were considering Ewan's 25 in the ACT - the trans in that is in good condition is it? Haakon, do you know how much that John Maesfield fellow's 25s are selling for, its colour and the colour of the Blackburn one is?
Cheers guys,
Richard
Haakon said:I think I have a heavier right foot than you
Well Haakon after following you for a short period on the Reno roundup day I'm not surprised about your fuel figures, in fact they look reasonable for the stop light drags you favour.
One of the members (Eric ) of the RCCV was recording up to 1200km range for 72 lt on his trip computer during a Melb - Syd run with 4 ( plus lugage ) in the R25 manual. I have used 71lt for 830km on a ski trip, up mountain and down of course ( 3 people+ kit ) and mine is an auto. Yo GavinS :renplak:
I think that you have to look at the R25 in perspective. It was produced at a time when Renault was going thru a bad time really,
(putting cheaper interior quality together financially doing it tough).
I think the auto in the R25 is a great combination. The cars are great also. The main issue is at that time there were no real experts on the transmission therefore they all complained and gave them bad word of mouth.
I think personally if people are getting 335000k or anywhere near that in auatomatic that is pretty good. People have to think "would i rather spend 2000 on a new gearbox or spend 19990 on a new car that is most likely some chinese s#$^box". I know what id rather do thats for sure.
What you need to do is get the car checked out by some kind of expert close to you. The NRMA or its equivalent should be ok i guess. If its got a good service history go for it. They are a great car and for sure they are better than a boring 505. Much more somfortable, nicer interior, better airconditioning etc....I say go for it. Id have one if was looking at getting a cheaper Renault. (if i could not find a Renault 21 Marseille or 21 turbo, nevada...)
It was produced at a time when Renault was going thru a bad time really, (putting cheaper interior quality together financially doing it tough). I think the auto in the R25 is a great combination.
The cars are great also. The main issue is at that time there were no real experts on the transmission therefore they all complained and gave them bad word of mouth. I think personally if people are getting 335000k or anywhere near that in auatomatic that is pretty good. People have to think "would i rather spend 2000 on a new gearbox or spend 19990 on a new car that is most likely some chinese s#$^box". I know what id rather do thats for sure.
What you need to do is get the car checked out by some kind of expert close to you. The NRMA or its equivalent should be ok i guess. If its got a good service history go for it. They are a great car and for sure they are better than a boring 505. Much more somfortable, nicer interior, better airconditioning etc....I say go for it. Id have one if was looking at getting a cheaper Renault. (if i could not find a Renault 21 Marseille or 21 turbo, nevada...)
GavinS said:I'm not surprised about your fuel figures, in fact they look reasonable for the stop light drags you favour.
Who, me? Dont know what youre talking about....
I'm not like that all the time, I just enjoy the way Renault front drive chassis hook around corners under power
silverexec said:
Mine has done that from the day I bought it too - it just makes the rev counter rise up and down as you approach lights on a trailing throttle. Mine isnt bad enough to make the car jerk about too badly, but you can defienantly feel it. I am under the impression that it is a loss of hydraulic pressure internally that is causing the engaged clutch pack to disengage momentarialy. This would be due to the fact that the trans oil pump is running slower on a trailing throttle as its engine driven, and the fact that the 3rd/reverse clutch pack is pretty much worn out and loses pressure easily (see if it does what mine does - slips when reversed quickly up a hill when warm).
Dont quote me on any of that - if you are really keen, get Manual Automatics in Thomostown to look at it or give you advice on the symptoms. They are the experts on these, and have a changeover on the shelf if you ever need one
danielsydney said:
an auto in any car especially a 4cyl is no where near a great combination
i drive an auto 604 only because that's all there is and when the time comes it won't be auto any more
auto's have their place
taxis for one
street machines that have masses of power that a manual can't handle
people with a dissability
as for normal everyday drivers an auto is a waste of fuel
they add weight to a car
I'm struggling to see how an R25 with smick interior, decent paint and not very many k's with evidence of $$$'s spent on it over the years even with a dud auto can't be worth $1000.00!!!
Mechanical repairs are invariably a lot more "economical" than paint or trim... and an R25 Auto with <250k's is worth a risk at say $900.00 - $950.00.
A good flush, and some decent transmission fluid (I have started using the new Castrol fully synthetic auto trans fluid - about $65.00 for 4 litres from Supercheap but worth EVERY cent and good for at least 100k (I run it for 50k))
You can use Nulon if you want but such a good quality fluid would be ruined by adding Nulon IMHO.
You know we Francophiles are a strange bunch... when we're selling our pride and joy we want gazilions for them because they have been pampered, and are "special" and are just so worth every cent.. but when we're buying... jeez they're a misunderstood sleeper classic that no one appreciates and are really worthless to anyne but the person that picks it up for a song and then crows about it for the next 6 months till they have to sell it for some obscure reason.. and then guess what...!!!??? They immediately increase in value 10 fold...!! Go figure...!!
There's a series I 505 GTI on this site for $5,750.00 ....and a wagon for almost $8k but if you asked anyone what they shoud pay for one of these it would (as long as it was not from a member) it would be at east $2k less of each one...
And as for a Fuego... $1k for an R25... how much for a Fuego... and what would it cost you to get it "sorted"....
Purchasing a "classic car" is just as much an emotive purchase as a logical one.. and at some point there is a line ... usually defined by the final purchase price... walk away from it and I'd bet $100.00 there'd be a club member or someone on this site ready to snap it up... despite all the "reason's" not to...!!!
Remember... as the man from Nike says "just do it"....
Mechanical repairs are invariably a lot more "economical" than paint or trim... and an R25 Auto with <250k's is worth a risk at say $900.00 - $950.00.
A good flush, and some decent transmission fluid (I have started using the new Castrol fully synthetic auto trans fluid - about $65.00 for 4 litres from Supercheap but worth EVERY cent and good for at least 100k (I run it for 50k))
You can use Nulon if you want but such a good quality fluid would be ruined by adding Nulon IMHO.
You know we Francophiles are a strange bunch... when we're selling our pride and joy we want gazilions for them because they have been pampered, and are "special" and are just so worth every cent.. but when we're buying... jeez they're a misunderstood sleeper classic that no one appreciates and are really worthless to anyne but the person that picks it up for a song and then crows about it for the next 6 months till they have to sell it for some obscure reason.. and then guess what...!!!??? They immediately increase in value 10 fold...!! Go figure...!!
There's a series I 505 GTI on this site for $5,750.00 ....and a wagon for almost $8k but if you asked anyone what they shoud pay for one of these it would (as long as it was not from a member) it would be at east $2k less of each one...
And as for a Fuego... $1k for an R25... how much for a Fuego... and what would it cost you to get it "sorted"....
Purchasing a "classic car" is just as much an emotive purchase as a logical one.. and at some point there is a line ... usually defined by the final purchase price... walk away from it and I'd bet $100.00 there'd be a club member or someone on this site ready to snap it up... despite all the "reason's" not to...!!!
Remember... as the man from Nike says "just do it"....
OK, there have been some fairly persuasive arguments here so we're going to do something daring for once - we're going to call him up tomorrow and say we're buying it.
We'll negotiate the price of course, it is a misunderstood sleeper classic that no one appreciates...
Jack, you're probably right, if we don't buy it, someone else who knows about R25s will snap it up, spend a bit fixing it up and then have a fantastic car. Why shouldn't we be able to do the same.
Haakon, what has also settled my mind is the fact that there is that transmission specialist you mentioned based in Thomastown - not 5 minutes down the road from me, I'm in Lalor! It's comforting to know that I can get good advice and service on what would be the biggest potential problem on these cars, just around the corner - I don't have to go right across Melbourne for it.
The transmission behaviour you describe is exactly what the trans felt like in this 25. If all goes well and we get the car, I'll do all of the things that have been suggested (fluid flush, check out that vacuum thingy, Nulon perhaps) and if nothing helps, I'll bring it along to the guys at that trans place to check out.
So, I'll let you know how things pan out. If all goes well, we'll have another Frog by the end of the week... :headbang:
Richard
We'll negotiate the price of course, it is a misunderstood sleeper classic that no one appreciates...
Jack, you're probably right, if we don't buy it, someone else who knows about R25s will snap it up, spend a bit fixing it up and then have a fantastic car. Why shouldn't we be able to do the same.
Haakon, what has also settled my mind is the fact that there is that transmission specialist you mentioned based in Thomastown - not 5 minutes down the road from me, I'm in Lalor! It's comforting to know that I can get good advice and service on what would be the biggest potential problem on these cars, just around the corner - I don't have to go right across Melbourne for it.
The transmission behaviour you describe is exactly what the trans felt like in this 25. If all goes well and we get the car, I'll do all of the things that have been suggested (fluid flush, check out that vacuum thingy, Nulon perhaps) and if nothing helps, I'll bring it along to the guys at that trans place to check out.
So, I'll let you know how things pan out. If all goes well, we'll have another Frog by the end of the week... :headbang:
Richard