Peugeot 504 ti won’t start warm

H

Harry504

New member
Tadpole
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Coburg
Hi All, looking for advice regarding my 72 504 ti. Starts first time when cold but have been stuck recently when I’ve parked and gone to start again and it wont go. Would it be flooded? If I leave for an hour it will start. There is some foam under the injection system that the previous owner looks to have put there ( thought this may have been a short term fix?) Sorry I’m not great mechanically proficient so any advice appreciated. I would then pass onto my mechanic. Have read on this forum not to start playing with the injection system so wary of anyone touching that. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance.


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Has it suddenly started doing this, or has it been getting gradually worse?

The Ti's do flood very easily when warm. It may take a few attempts to start, but be sure not to touch the throttle at all otherwise things get very difficult.
 
I have solved this problem on my cab.I fitted a relay sending current direct from the battery +ve to the coil +ve when the ignition is on. I ran a feed wire from the distributor to the relay running in parallel with the original wiring .Perfect starting every time now . In the mean time your car should role start easily when hot
 
It's the electrovalve, which in the Ti system acts as a choke. Yours is acting up and keeps sending when the car is warm, flooding the engine; it's a common problem. Install a switch to cut current to the electrovalve, turn it it on only when the engine is cold. It's an easy, reliable fix.
 
That also fits in with my [distant] memories of my TIs. That is the flat round thing on the firewall. Unplug the wire until it starts. As Thanos says then wire a switch into that circuit. From left field I seem to recall that mine were very sensitive to the heat range of the spark plugs and that made them harder to start when hot. Make sure that it has the right plugs. The numbers 5E and 6E ring a bell but I can't remember which one BUT it is different heat range to the carby car.
 
neil s said:
That also fits in with my [distant] memories of my TIs. That is the flat round thing on the firewall. Unplug the wire until it starts. As Thanos says then wire a switch into that circuit. From left field I seem to recall that mine were very sensitive to the heat range of the spark plugs and that made them harder to start when hot. Make sure that it has the right plugs. The numbers 5E and 6E ring a bell but I can't remember which one BUT it is different heat range to the carby car.
Click to expand...

That is the altitude corrector, the electrovalve is on the back of the manifold. Always comes on and squirts fuel when starting regardless of temperature. Fit a switch to turn it off except when needed, maybe not at all.
 
Hello Harry,

Don't know if this will help your situation, but I have a similar situation / path.

Over 40 family years of 504 Cabriolet (Ti engine) we had exactly the same-sounding issue. Car would start fine from cold, but when warm, turning the key would not start the engine.

We employed the tactic of opening the bonnet and pulling the electrical cable from the injector that is found at the end of the inlet manifold
this is nearest the windscreen) and whose job is to inject petrol (for a period of time) directly into the intake manifold, and thereby enrichen the air/fuel mixture.

This action would let the engine start, and all we had to do was reconnect the cable when we wanted to start the car from cold another time.

Years have gone by, and the problem got worse and worse.

Discovery:

I THINK that the issue was that the injection system was becoming 'rich' and that the additional raw petrol being injected at starter engagement made the mixture too rich.

In my case,I have discovered a number of problems, that cause the injection system to put too much fuel into the engine.

The number one issue was a leak in the two (larger) membranes that are in the section of the pump which is manipulated by the flow of air from the Altimeter to the Inlet Manifold (I don't have a picture to hand as I write this, but it the top part of the pump that has a DOME on top of it)

You can do a non empirical check of the membrane integrity by doing this disgusting thing !!! Disconnect the pipes from the Altimeter and the manifold. suck / blow in them and there should be minimal air travel (if that makes sense) if there is a leak, air will flow through the system , rather than move the components... (phew, this is sounding long winded)

I found that my membranes were fractured, and a change sorted it ALL out, massive difference.

I have pictures of all this stuff, LMK if they would help ?

(In summary, as the membranes in the 'dome ' part of the injection pump got fractured, so too did the richness control of the engine and difficulty hot starting was the the 'creeping' indicator. r's mike
 
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