Peugeot 504 alternator upgrade questions

Pug72

Pug72

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Hi all

With the impending installation of air con into my 504, I had better firstly upgrade my alternator. It is still the original type (I am assuming 35 amps).

I have searched and see that a commodore alternator will fit. Is it for a VN commodore as per this link:

Brand NEW Alternator FOR Holden Commodore VN VP VR V6 | eBay which are 80amps

Now firstly I can see that I will need to swap over the ribbed pulley for the Peugeot v pulley, then how do I wire it up? Is there a direct feed from the battery to the stud on the back of the alternator, then power from an ignition source?

Then I need to remove the original voltage regulator from the firewall and toss out? Do I just tape up the wires that attach to the voltage regulator?

Thanks heaps
 
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/froggy-chat/85392-gererator-alternator-conversion.html

For a Renault, but equally applicable to 504.

Yes, you need to remove the existing regulator and do a few wiring changes as well. Details are in post #4 of the linked thread in pdf file.

It would be worth reading through the entire thread, since many incidental issues and other matter are also discussed.

The Holden/ Bosch alternator is bolt on replacement on the 504, you may need a few spacing washers on the pivot bolt to align the belts grooves. And to put set in the top, tensioner bracket.

But it's the way to go and improves the electrics no end.

EDIT: And follow the wiring diagram exactly , otherwise you can fry the electrical system with an output voltage of over 17 volts. :wink2:
 
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The alternator in the Ebay link is not the alternator referred to in the thread.

There is an image of the alternator in Graham's mock up wiring, posted in thread.

And the Bosch model number is in the wiring pdf.

At $169 the Ebay unit is top odds too.

I suggest you go to a DIY wrecker and find one for $30 -$50. They are very reliable and you can grab a relay and the plug from donor car too.

The K1 alternators are single foot mount.
 
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Tom_95 said:
Yeah, you're right. From memory, it's the non-Ecotec Commodore alternators that fit (meaning VP, VR etc.).
Click to expand...

You just need to go for a walk in the wrecker and find a V* series vehicle with a standard claw pole alternator.

The general chopped and changed alternators, even on the same car series. You are looking for a claw pole style alternator, not the compact claw, squat types, with more open end caps.
 
So far I have rung a few wreckers in Brisbane and no one seems to have any VP Commodores left to wreck
 
just get a 505 alternator from a car with factory a/c, they have 55amps, job's done.
 
Pug72 said:
So far I have rung a few wreckers in Brisbane and no one seems to have any VP Commodores left to wreck
Click to expand...

VN series should have the same alternator. Both 6 and V8 have the same alternator.

Head to a pick it your self wreckers.

The later V series have the twin leg mounting and are the compact claw type (squat) and aren't as easy to fit.

I have a feeling some Magnas use the same alternator. But they are hard to get to unless the front is off the car.
 
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Many years ago an auto-electrician replaced the alternator on my 504 diesel with one from a Volvo.
 
The reason why I prefer the Holden alternators is the voltage sense feature. Which ensures the battery voltage is always optimal and any resistance in the charging circuit is compensated.

Not so much an issue Xn engines because the battery is close to the alternator. But other vehicles can have long charging cables.
 
I'll do some more ringing around today. I am assuming that I will need the plug and section of wiring harness from the commodore.

I can always buy a Holden Commodore VN alternator new from Repco or ebay.
 
Don't self serve wreckers exist in Brisbane ?

In Melbourne you can get an alternator for $40 and get to choose a reasonable looking one at that. And get the plug, and relay at the same time.

I can't see the benefit in paying for someone to pull it off the car and stick it in a warehouse.

Some of so called reconditioned alternators are "reconditioned" with a rag and a tin of degreaser.

As with everything on Ebay it's caveat emptor.
 
They do, but finding a VN Commodore alternator was obviously hard to find up in Brisbane....but success....

This is after I give it a quick clean. I didn't realise until I got home that the plastic plug is missing the metal spring clip, so have ordered one of these.

Cost me $60 and the bearings feel smooth. It's a genuine Bosch.
 

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Pug72 said:
I can always buy a Holden Commodore VN alternator new from Repco or ebay.
Click to expand...

If you can afford it, I'd strongly suggest that...yours is such a nice car. The condition is then a known quantity, rather than one on which the rfegulator or brushes are an unknown quantity.

Repco would be best because you can deal with actual people over the counter.

They're $160 on Ebay. How much at Repco ?
 
Repco would be best because you can deal with actual people over the counter
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Some of Repco stores I've been to it would debatable if the staff are worthy of the name "people".

One of the reasons Repco remain as my least preferred supplier.
 
My biggest concern is getting the wiring correct.

The direct feed from the positive battery terminal to the 6mm bolt on the back of the alternator is obvious.

It is the two small wires that connect to the plastic plug on the back of the new alternator are what I am a little confused about.

From your previous post Robmac, the "L" needs to connected to a small bulb. Is this a direct feed from the positive terminal of the battery?

Also, the "S" wire is an ignition source. Would I find this feed connected to the current voltage regulator?

Looking closer at your drawing Robmac, I'll need to pick up a 2W bulb, relay and two fuses.

Obviously once I connect these two wires to the new alternator, I disconnect and remove the old voltage regulator but I am not sure what it looks like. There are these two units - the dark one under the windscreen washer bottle on the LH inner guard and the silver unit is on the firewall.

Thanks heaps for your help
 

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Sorry...more questions!

Here is a picture of the wiring on the back of the current (no pun intended) alternator. I traced the thicker light brown/cream coloured cable back to the +ve battery terminal so I will be able to use this again on the 85amp alternator as the main battery feed.

So what are the other two wires? Can I use either of these on the 85amp alternator?

Thanks heaps
 

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Pug72 said:
Sorry...more questions!

Here is a picture of the wiring on the back of the current (no pun intended) alternator. I traced the thicker light brown/cream coloured cable back to the +ve battery terminal so I will be able to use this again on the 85amp alternator as the main battery feed.

So what are the other two wires? Can I use either of these on the 85amp alternator?

Thanks heaps
Click to expand...

The wire that goes to stud terminal, ie to the battery , you will connect to the stud on the new alternator.

The brown wire on the ring terminal is a ground between the existing regulator and not required for the new alternator.

Th yellow wire, with the blue lug is the Field terminal, used only with an external regulator.

To fit a Holden alternator you need to do some rewiring , ie reconfigure what is on the car and add a lamp and relay. This requires some
new wires to be added.

Post 4 of this thread gives a circuit diagram of the required work in pdf format. And a lot more information as well.

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/froggy-chat/85392-gererator-alternator-conversion.html

I've attached it as image, that may be easier

img029.jpg
 
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