Peugeot 2008 - 1.2Lt - Ownership Feedback

[Whippet]

Hi.

Completed the 45k service.

There is not much of the cam belt that can be observed via the oil filler. But the part that I could see looked to be smooth and I could identify any hairline cracks or other deterioration.

The VVT solenoid appeared to have clear filters on the gallery feeds. I assume that the middle ports are where the oil is supplied into. It was easy to access and remove, once I worked out how to unclip with loom.

Also I had already replaced the spark plugs 7,000km previously. I would not expect these to be at replacement stage in only that short period of service.

I have used Penrite Enviro+ C3 5W-30 oil and Ryco Z543 filter.

 

[Whippet]

Remember that recalls always have a VIN range and there's never any guarantee a problem is really limited to that VIN range.
Keep in mind that unless you are a registered mechanic, DIY servicing can potentially compromise your warranty status. Doesn't matter how competent you are as a DIYer. Regardless, it's important you use the correct oil here and document what was used.

Hi David. There is a spreadsheet that I have downloaded from here: https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/rec-001136. There are 2,010 VIN's listed including 289 x 2008's. The VIN of our 2008 vehicle is not listed. The list has a range of 2014 to 2017; ours has a manufactured date of May 2017, maybe ours is outside of the range of affected vehicles?

Your comments about warranty are noted. I can't change this now. I was formally trained to a higher level during the start of my career 40 years ago. But I am not registered or working as a mechanic now.

 

[Whippet]

There is not much of the cam belt that can be observed via the oil filler. But the part that I could see looked to be smooth and I could not identify any hairline cracks or other deterioration.

Edit. left out the "not"

 

[David S]

The servicing issue is that the ACCC holds the position where you won't void your manufacturer's warranty by using an independent mechanic, but that doesn't necessarily extend to DIY. I can't recall exactly the term they use, but if you were formally trained, it's likely OK. While most of the forum members could change oil successfully at home, few would have been trained to do it and for that reason a manufacturer may not have high confidence their product was serviced properly prior to a claim event.

 

[Whippet]

The 81kW 3 cyl THP has a spark plug interval of 45k/4yrs or "arduous" conditions of 40k/4yrs.

The 96kW 3 cyl THP has a spark plug interval of 30k/4yrs - for both "normal" and "arduous" conditions.

Hi.

Does anybody know what the mechanical and/or ECU differences are, to achieve the 96kW 250Nm output over the 81kW 205Nm engine?

Cheers.

 

[seasink]

From the extensive EB turbo press release in 2013-

Réduction de 18% de la consommation et des émissions de CO 2 par rapport aux versions atmosphériques des moteurs EP « Prince » déjà référents dans leur gamme, grâce à une injection directe de haute précision.
Peugeot 308: 1.2 THP 110 ch : 102g/km (version très basse conso)
1.2 THP 130 ch : 107g/km
Citroën C4: 1.2 THP 110 ch : 110g/km
1.2 THP 130 ch : 110g/km

Un agrément de conduite parmi les meilleurs du marché dès les plus bas régimes, offrant le meilleur compromis couple bas régime/puissance
(130 cv avec un couple de 230 nm)

Un moteur 3 cylindres qui associe des dimensions et un poids réduits à des prestations et des performances inédites à ce niveau de cylindrée.

Un moteur modulaire :
40% des pièces du moteur Turbo issues du moteur EB atmo.
Les versions 110 et 130 ch des moteurs EB Turbo PureTech différenciés uniquement par leur calibration et leurs boîtes de vitesses.

The last para seems to have the answer..

There was a similar document issued for the 165 and 200 chevaux engines. (In neither do they use kW to refer to engines)

 

[Whippet]

Hi.

So the full set of GoodYear Efficient Grip 205/50-R17 89V tyres have finally arrived, and were fitted today.

I will report back when the tyres have settled in after a few hundred kilometres of driving.

When driving the vehicle home on urban roads, it was obvious that the cabin noise has reduced significantly, which was one of the main reasons for replacing the original GoodYear 4 Seasons tyres; so I am pleased with that aspect. I took some measurements of the cabin noise of the original tyres at different road speeds. I will take some more to see what the actual measured differences are.

Other than that I will need to allow the tyres to settle in for a few hundred kilometres of driving, before I make any other observations.

I have adjusted the pressures to the tyre placard plus 10% (220kPa + 20kPa) = 240kPa. They were higher than this from the tyre fitters.

The vehicle has also had a full wheel alignment as well.

Cheers.

 

[Whippet]

Hi.

Using “Spectrum” app on iPhone, noise measured in the cabin at different speeds on spray sealed road pavement. 205/50-R17 89V tyres inflated to tyre placard plus 10% (220kPa + 20kPa) = 240kPa.

Note: the dB-A is a logarithmic scale, so every +/- 3dB is a doubling or halving of the noise level.

Course chip and smoother spray seal pavement exhibit a noise difference of approximately 1 to 2dB. So the peak noise from the original to new tyres has reduced by 3 & 4 dB-A at 80kmh & 100kmh respectively.

I am very happy with the new tyres and the cabin noise has reduced by more than half. I find it difficult to comment on steering response, handling or grip as these are very subjective. But they “seem” to be no worse than the original tyres. In fact I had noticed the original tyres would lose grip under full throttle acceleration from a stop, the new tyres don’t seem to do this.

I specifically selected these tyres as they had the lower 89 load index and also did not have the XL additional ply in the sidewalls, in the hope that the ride and damping of the small surface ripples would be better.

Left image: Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons - M&S original tyres. 57,700km. Directional. Date Code: 1917
Right image: Goodyear - Efficient Grip new tyres. 800km. Date Code: 3721

Original tyres at 100kmh - 80dB-A

New tyres at 100 kmh - 76dB-A. This is a 4 dB reduction which is half of the original noise level.

There was a 3dB-A noise reduction at 80kmh.

Cheers.

 

[Whippet]

From the extensive EB turbo press release in 2013-


The last para seems to have the answer..

There was a similar document issued for the 165 and 200 chevaux engines. (In neither do they use kW to refer to engines)

Hi seasink.

This is the translation: The 110 and 130 hp versions of the EB Turbo PureTech engines differ only in their calibration and their gearboxes.

So all I need to do is to obtain another chip from a GT model to enjoy an 18% kW increase and 22% Nm increase. I don't think it is worth it. I also don't want to change my gearbox. In urban traffic the performance is adequate, in fact quite torquey. But at freeway speeds it a bit breathless for overtaking, but OK for cruise control up hill and down dale.

Cheers.

 

[Whippet]

Hi.

I performed a 60,000km service on the vehicle today, mainly involved engine oil and filter change.

Goodyear Efficient Grip 205/50-R17 89V tyres were fitted back in June and have travelled 8,200km. I have noticed that the both front tyres have "saw-tooth" or "heal-toe" wear mostly on the outside half of the outside shoulder blocks. The saw-tooth is pointing forward as per the below image for the LH wheel. Any ideas on the cause?

Rear tyres are smooth.

Inflation pressure is tyre placard plus 5%.
Vehicle gets regular freeway driving.
Wheel alignement was performed at time of fitting of new tyres.

Cheers.

source: https://www.continental-tires.com.p...s heel and toe,something about ”tread design”.

 

[Fred Rubble]

Hi.

So the distance driven on the regional and rural highways was 770km. After a zero of the trip meter and fuel economy meter when I filled up the fuel tank before they departed, the reported fuel consumption at the end of the trip was 5.9 L/100km. There were 4 adults on board with some luggage, so it was full for a small vehicle. This is not super low, the prior 307 2Lt HDi would have achieved in the low 5 L/100km. Considering there is 10% more heating value in diesel, the 5 L/100km would convert to 5.5 L/100 km. I did anticipate that the 1.2Lt engine would have achieved better than 5.9 L/100km.

I did a trip from Tassie to as far north as Crescent Head and back early last year. On my own, light load. I also achieved 5.9 l/100km (from fill and tripmeter, not the onboard readings) which included city traffic in Sydney and Melbourne. Very happy with that, a similar trip in 2020 in my 1.4l Fiesta ended up closer to 7, and that car struggled to sit on 110km/hr.

 

[Whippet]

Hi.

Wheel Alignment diagnosis confirmation.

The tyres on Mrs Whippets 2008 have now done 28,000km. I swapped front to rear recently.

I noticed that both front tyres had worn in a "wedge" shape. Refer to bottom image - there is more wear on the (bottom) outside shoulder and progressively less wear across the tread to the inside. My experience of wheel alignment is more than four decades ago.

When the tyres were fitted the wheel alignment was also done. see report attached.

If I believe that the final figures in the report are correct, then there should be even wear on my FWD tyres.

The Camber and Toe settings are pretty much spot on to the reference databank.

Inflation pressures have always been 5% above placard. Vehicle is driven half on freeways for 100+km trips and the balance as urban driving.

Any suggestions as to the cause of the tyre wear?

Cheers.

 

[Haakon]

Hi.

Completed the 45k service.

There is not much of the cam belt that can be observed via the oil filler. But the part that I could see looked to be smooth and I could identify any hairline cracks or other deterioration.

The VVT solenoid appeared to have clear filters on the gallery feeds. I assume that the middle ports are where the oil is supplied into. It was easy to access and remove, once I worked out how to unclip with loom.

Also I had already replaced the spark plugs 7,000km previously. I would not expect these to be at replacement stage in only that short period of service.

I have used Penrite Enviro+ C3 5W-30 oil and Ryco Z543 filter.

View attachment 199942

It appears they are having problems with the belt teeth disintegrating, and even if it doesn’t skip pulley teeth and total the engine with bent valves it will clog up the oil pump pickup and total the engine… It seems belt changes on these engines should include the sump being dropped the clean the strainer on the oil pump….

I’d be halving rhe recommend belt change interval if I owned one…

 

[Whippet]

It appears they are having problems with the belt teeth disintegrating, and even if it doesn’t skip pulley teeth and total the engine with bent valves it will clog up the oil pump pickup and total the engine… It seems belt changes on these engines should include the sump being dropped the clean the strainer on the oil pump….

I’d be halving rhe recommend belt change interval if I owned one…

Hi.

Its all fixed now; full details here: https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/i...ult-code-for-2008-my-2018-1-2lt.147967/page-4

Interestingly - once I cleaned all the debris from the oil pump inlet strainer, there was never another low oil pressure (or any other) code generated for the extra 10,000km or so, that it was driven until the timing belt was replaced as part of the recall programme. It appears that on my belt that only a single layer of material had shed from the toothed side of the belt. I am confident that the belt would have lasted many more km's. Refer to photos in above link.

Cheers.

 

[Haakon]

Hi.

Its all fixed now; full details here: https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/i...ult-code-for-2008-my-2018-1-2lt.147967/page-4

Interestingly - once I cleaned all the debris from the oil pump inlet strainer, there was never another low oil pressure (or any other) code generated for the extra 10,000km or so, that it was driven until the timing belt was replaced as part of the recall programme. It appears that on my belt that only a single layer of material had shed from the toothed side of the belt. I am confident that the belt would have lasted many more km's. Refer to photos in above link.

Cheers.

Ah, I missed that thread. Those are eye opening photos of the old belt!! Not I have much faith in it going much longer than that…

 

[BarryC]

I have recently purchased a set of 195/60 16 rims and barely worn (Pirelli) tyres from an Access spec 2008, and have put them in place of my 205/50 17 rims and tyres. Ride is far smoother. Why I was prompted to do this would make the post far too long.

I previously had noted that a flat 205/50 R17 tyre and rim would fit in place of the space saver spare wheel, however a fully inflated (and only slightly worn) 205/50 will not fit in the space. If I deflate the tyre, then it will fit the space. Interesting dilemma.

Do I replace the very good space saver spare with a flat full-sizes tyre, and hope that when the time comes, I can re-inflate the spare with a 12V Michelin brand tyre inflator, or stick with the space saver and travel at 80 Km/h for maybe a few hundred Kms?

maybe a badly worn 205/50 17 will fit the space? It would seem that a diameter difference of about 1 cm would make the difference between a fit/non fit. Can’t quite believe that the wheel well is so close to working with a full sized spare. Surely another cm or so in the diameter wouldn’t have been such a design challenge.

FYI. Maybe someone else has somehow managed to fit a full-sized spare in there?



spare

 

[David S]

Solution ...

 

[Whippet]

Solution ...

View attachment 227343

Hi.

Very funny, but if BarryC chooses to use the persuader he will also need to wear one of these.

Cheers.

 

[David S]

Then it will be a really professional job!

 

[Whippet]

I have recently purchased a set of 195/60 16 rims and barely worn (Pirelli) tyres from an Access spec 2008, and have put them in place of my 205/50 17 rims and tyres. Ride is far smoother. Why I was prompted to do this would make the post far too long.

I previously had noted that a flat 205/50 R17 tyre and rim would fit in place of the space saver spare wheel, however a fully inflated (and only slightly worn) 205/50 will not fit in the space. If I deflate the tyre, then it will fit the space. Interesting dilemma.

Do I replace the very good space saver spare with a flat full-sizes tyre, and hope that when the time comes, I can re-inflate the spare with a 12V Michelin brand tyre inflator, or stick with the space saver and travel at 80 Km/h for maybe a few hundred Kms?

maybe a badly worn 205/50 17 will fit the space? It would seem that a diameter difference of about 1 cm would make the difference between a fit/non fit. Can’t quite believe that the wheel well is so close to working with a full sized spare. Surely another cm or so in the diameter wouldn’t have been such a design challenge.

FYI. Maybe someone else has somehow managed to fit a full-sized spare in there?



spare

Hi BarryC.

Good to hear that you took a chance with the 195/60-R16 tyres and that you have noticed a difference (improvement) in ride quality. Well Done.

If it was me, I would retain a fully inflated space saver tyre. From memory the space saver tyres are often inflated to a higher pressure than full size tyres.

I don't understand about the 80kmh speed limitation on the space saver, if it was me I would arrange to place the space saver on the *RH rear location and just drive the vehicle normally.

But if you were driving the vehicle interstate or much longer regional distances, then haveing a full size tyre plus the ability to inlfate it might also be a better option.

Cheers.

* Why? because it has the least load and potential for damage on the RHR location. LH locations are subject to shoulder to pavement transitions and often more potholes on the LH edge of the pavement. Also the rear axle carries less load than the front axle.