Other Carbies on 550SR autos??????

By the way,

Fuel consumption figures:

Mitsubishi Magna TR GLX 2.6 Carb
City Cycle - 12.02L/100km (26.5 mpg approx)
Highway Cycle - 7.2 L/100km (37.5 mpg approx)

Peugeot 505 2.0 Carb OHV
City Cycle - 23mpg
Highway Cycle - 30mpg

Specifications are for sedans (both weigh about the same in sedan form) Bearing in mind the Magna has a 4 speed Automatic versus the 505's 3 speed unit.
 
The manual 505 was listed as 7l /100km om its release.
Does the auto really use that much more fuel.
A Triton ute I drove to Hillston and back absolutely drank fuel.

Graham Wallis
 
GRAHAM WALLIS:
The manual 505 was listed as 7l /100km om its release.
Does the auto really use that much mor fuel?
Graham Wallis
Click to expand...
The figures were for a 3 speed auto, with the OHV engine.
The specs were for a UK model so I pressume they are similar in spec....

P.s I'm sure you could get 7l/100k out of one...at 60kph in top gear on a salt flat.

BTW - How much does a Triton weigh.......

<small>[ 17 April 2003, 11:49 AM: Message edited by: mistareno ]</small>
 
mistareno:

Its eletric auto choke would be easy to setup (in comparison with the webber water temp activated unit)
Click to expand...
Genuine Weber electric choke mechanisms for the automatic choke versions of Weber 32/36 models are sold at Weber retailers. These mechanisms will not fit ones which originally had a manual choke because the body casting is slightly different.

Dave

<small>[ 17 April 2003, 04:31 PM: Message edited by: davemcbean ]</small>
 
Every Mitsubishi I've ever had anything to do with was thirsty... from the Starbus at 17mpg to the 2-litre Sigma wagon (that had nooooo room in the back!) that got barely 28mpg on a trip with the five speed box.
 
Ray Bell:
I agree that there's a little trouble in setting up the SU or CD Stromberg, but I believe the results would be worth it.
Click to expand...
Just be a bit careful of CD Strombergs pre-'71 or so, as some of them had fixed non-adjustable jets/needles, with a very limited mixture adjustment via a screw in the body, only to trim the idle mixture. This design didn't last, but just a warning if you're trolling the wreckers.

I reckon SU's are excellent simply because I've found them so simple to work on, easy to tune, and reliable once you've got the right needle and spring. Suppose it's what you're used to.

Stuey

<small>[ 17 April 2003, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: Stuey ]</small>
 
Thanks Guys,
Haven't looked at this post for a few days. Wow so many ideas.
Mister thanks for your idea, but as my father-in-law has a Manga and it is a carb model and the a leading brisbane carbie tune mob quoted him over $200 to get it working right again after only 2 years I'll look further.
Ray, is the carb you mentioned a side or down-draft??...
The only other problem is with the pollution crap, and the car being a 1984 model it has loads of it. How do I get round all that as most of the replacment carbs that are going to benifit me are earlier types?
Graham, sound like a good idea...I will keep you in mind if that is the track i decide to take.
Forum heading should be 505sr... mallet mallet mallet
Go the LIONS......91 - 80 over the "Pies" Yippeeee
 
Als....
The motorcraft carb you mentioned, ...2150...which particular "henry" is it off....2.0 l cortina/escort?
I suppose a ford wrecker would be the best bet.

Chris
 
Ray,
I thought so.
The manifold may be a simple item to make....would you just leave all the anti-polution gear off??
If you went with one carb, what would the size be?? Are we talking 2" here or were they 1 3/4"?
Thanks for your suggestions Ray.
 
I always thought the Rover 2000 SU was a 2", but I got one and it was 1 3/4"... as is the Austin 1800 which might also have a chance of being okay.

No idea what the Volvo Stromberg is, I asked Graham but he didn't respond to that question.
 
Ray Bell:
The reason I'm plumping for the carbies off engines so close in overall spec is to avoid having to hunt down needles.

But I'm willing to listen if I'm on the wrong path...
Click to expand...
No, I wasn't saying that you were on the wrong path at all, Ray (if you meant me). The carbs I was talking about still have replaceable needles (so the mixture profile can be changed) but for a while they had no jet/needle adjustment, to alter the base mixture at idle. So the relationship between the jet and needle was fixed. By the way, the needles are a bit expensive - like $50 for the Jag...

These were a little hard to set up. They have a mixture screw in the body which gives a tiny bit of adjustment, but may be a bit hard to get running smoothly. Later CD's had a moveable needle via a special tool inserted down the damper hole in the top, which was apparently better to set up.

Stu
 
I've got to overhaul a pair of Stromberg CD150s off an old Humber for a friend. Anything special I should watch out for, tips and tricks etc?
Also would the Weber off a 80s Falcon be OK for the 604?
 
Ray,
The Volvo carby is 43mm across the butterfly.Single carby for 2 litre.
Graham
 
Pugnut403:
I've got to overhaul a pair of Stromberg CD150s off an old Humber for a friend. Anything special I should watch out for, tips and tricks etc?
Also would the Weber off a 80s Falcon be OK for the 604?
Click to expand...
80's falcon had i think a 32/36 weber
it mey work but i have heard a few have tried without success
hence the need to go foe the 38 DGAS i mentioned earlier that was a factory fitment on 604's
 
Pugnut403:
I've got to overhaul a pair of Stromberg CD150s off an old Humber for a friend. Anything special I should watch out for, tips and tricks etc?
Click to expand...
Pugnut, I've recently recovered a pair of CD175's back from a white corroded mess. The engine they're installed on is now running fine. I highly recommend taking the major castings, complete with throttle butterflies, to a carby specialist to be cleaned in their cleaning solution. Whatever this stuff is, you can't buy it as you need a special licence. The metal comes out like brand new, MUCH cleaner than carby cleaner. Don't get the pistons and the bell shaped tops mixed up, as they're a matched set - remember to mark them. As a rule I keep all the parts for each carb as a set. Also, CD's are susceptible to flooding from the float needle valve sticking, so they need a good quality needle and seat. The needles and needle jets should have no noticable wear, except maybe a polished line on the needle - any pitting means replacement. Other than that, it's a pretty straightforward job. Just check that the pistons move freely and return to the bridge with a clear click sound using your finger through the throat of the carb.

Cheers

Stuey
 
At this stage, as we are trying for better economy....Ray's suggestion of the SU or the stromberg is looking healthier.
The 2 webers mentioned wouldbe okay, the 32/36 being the pick because the 38 is a constant dual throttle twin barrel. The fuel economy would probably suffer more.
Two slight hassles there Ray, the manifold and the hook-up of the kickdown cable for the auto???
Shouldn't pose to much of a problem?

Chris
 
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