If there is no baffles in there ... shove your pressure washer wand down into the tank and blast it all back to smooth, clean metal. even the cheapest pressure washers are blasting about 1500psi from there wand!
Orange GS - the emotional roller coaster of excitement and disappointment.
- Thread starter andrewj
- Start date
ok, went for increased surface area on the anode rather than increased voltage.
Now bubbling along @ 4amps. Should see some rapid progress
Shane, tried the pressure washer, but it would not removed the caked on / solidified rust. Hopefully some little hydrogen bubbles underneath will lift it.
Now bubbling along @ 4amps. Should see some rapid progress
Shane, tried the pressure washer, but it would not removed the caked on / solidified rust. Hopefully some little hydrogen bubbles underneath will lift it.
Here you go
how to spend 500quid to try and clean a 140quid petrol tank :roflmao:
how to spend 500quid to try and clean a 140quid petrol tank :roflmao:
Both of my modified 2CVs have tanks that i built myself.
As'60 and'61 cars they had 20L tanks..... which as any Raider knows, just isn't enough.
Both tanks are folded from 0.6 steel. Both have really major baffles, direct filler neck and vent from the highest point.
One has folded and silver soldered joints.
The other tig welded.
But the best bit is the capacity.
One is 60L
The other 85L!
As'60 and'61 cars they had 20L tanks..... which as any Raider knows, just isn't enough.
Both tanks are folded from 0.6 steel. Both have really major baffles, direct filler neck and vent from the highest point.
One has folded and silver soldered joints.
The other tig welded.
But the best bit is the capacity.
One is 60L
The other 85L!
Agree with the use of sealers, seems a lame solution. Although previous owner of my Moto Guzzi put a kit through the tank & looks great (small tank I guess)
Yes, I did put a sealer kit through one of my GS's and not 100%. I have a permanent bicycle pump in the car so when crap (probably sealer fragments) gets in the fuel line, I pump it out from top of tank hose up to front of car
Honestly for circa $300 I reckon I'd get the job done properly next time; have the tank split & lead lined
John's nice bloke, usually does flush on my Xantia
https://www.melwideautoradiators.com.au/
Re your deliberate error question (post 17) - are you connected up to fuel sender that has gasket & not making true contact with tank?
Yes, I did put a sealer kit through one of my GS's and not 100%. I have a permanent bicycle pump in the car so when crap (probably sealer fragments) gets in the fuel line, I pump it out from top of tank hose up to front of car
Honestly for circa $300 I reckon I'd get the job done properly next time; have the tank split & lead lined
John's nice bloke, usually does flush on my Xantia
https://www.melwideautoradiators.com.au/
Re your deliberate error question (post 17) - are you connected up to fuel sender that has gasket & not making true contact with tank?
Geez. With a full tank do they still proceed?
80litres of petrol is probably only 60kg .... so like carrying a miniature adult with you
Hi Sparkey,
Close, but not quite. The lead going to the anode is black not red, meaning that it is doing a really good job of cleaning the bit of old steel, instead of the tank!
I would have taken the easy route and outsourced the repair, but I am really keen to get to the Bastille Day display, and with shipping etc. it would have taken tooo long. Plus now I am really curious as to what can be achieved with electrolysis...
Here is today's update:
Siphoned the electrolyte out into a plastic tank so I could have a look inside. It was a dark black/green colour with a huge amount of muck suspended in it.
Gave the tank a quick rinse with water and poked a torch inside. See below. Virtually all of the rust is gone, with the exception of a few patches of crust here and there.
Siphoned in the electrolyte back in (minus the sludge that had settled out), topped it up with water and back on the power supply. So looking good and on track for an exceptionally perfect clean, with out having deal with any nasty chemicals ;-)
Ordered some stuff called "Redkote" on line. Looks like it is very runny and remains clear after application - so should be easy to apply and easy to see if any problems after application.
Cheers,
Andrew
PS, Buttercup, longer range fuel tanks on a 2cv sound like a great idea! wanna put some photos up?
That's amazing ... I'm sure we would love to hear exactly how its done
Sorry it's almost impossible to get pics, both are fully enclosed on all sides, top and a ribbed belly protector.
And I didn't take any pics during construction.
On both cars, to access the tank I need to remove the body. The 2cv body is of course 1 unit, the DS style body is a separate rear section.
Keep at it Andrew, you’re on the right track.
the tank will be perfectly clean.
To ensure a dry and clean surface for the coating to adhere, on your final swish round, drop in a litre of metho, swish it round to mix with the remaining water and drain.
the metho mixes with the water and all evaporates together.
You’ll make Bastille Day.
the tank will be perfectly clean.
To ensure a dry and clean surface for the coating to adhere, on your final swish round, drop in a litre of metho, swish it round to mix with the remaining water and drain.
the metho mixes with the water and all evaporates together.
You’ll make Bastille Day.
Today's update...
Siphoned the tank, that is clear pvc tubing - check out the sludge coming out! It is blacky green, so I am guessing some kind of iron oxide - FeO or Fe304? Anyway, what ever it is, it goes the normal rust colour on exposure to air.
Inside looks great. The final crusty bits where loosely attached and rumbled some 20mm clean around in the tank with water to get them out.
Although I dried the tank with a hair drier, the inside had a lot of surface rust within and hour. I am guessing that remaining black is actually an iron oxide, which converted back to rust with oxygen.
So back on the power supply with some clean water, and let's see what we have in a few more days.
Attachments
latest installment...
After a few more days on the battery charger, I un-hooked the tank and siphoned it out. A lot less muck came out than last time, and interestingly, it turned into red rust colour almost immediately after going into a bucket. Also, there was no horrible varnishy smell to the water this time.
Quick pressure wash and a look inside.
There is still a bit of the black oxide there, and a few stubborn skerricks of red rust.
Next step was to close up and slosh with about a litre of phosphoric acid. This made quick work of the remaining black oxide and red rust and has left a nice, even grey iron phosphate coating. Hopefully this will prevent any new rust forming, and will give a good surface for the redkote to stick to.
Hopefully the redkote turns up in the mail tomorrow and I will be on track for Bastille Day. Out of interest, has anyone had experience with this product?
Cheers,
Andrew
After a few more days on the battery charger, I un-hooked the tank and siphoned it out. A lot less muck came out than last time, and interestingly, it turned into red rust colour almost immediately after going into a bucket. Also, there was no horrible varnishy smell to the water this time.
Quick pressure wash and a look inside.
There is still a bit of the black oxide there, and a few stubborn skerricks of red rust.
Next step was to close up and slosh with about a litre of phosphoric acid. This made quick work of the remaining black oxide and red rust and has left a nice, even grey iron phosphate coating. Hopefully this will prevent any new rust forming, and will give a good surface for the redkote to stick to.
Hopefully the redkote turns up in the mail tomorrow and I will be on track for Bastille Day. Out of interest, has anyone had experience with this product?
Cheers,
Andrew
I give metal a zinc phosphate coat with KBS rustblaster or whatever it is, neutralizes and coats the rust/metal then put the tank coating on, I went KBS which some think delaminates but I guess only time will tell.
yep, steered clear of epoxy sealants, as no turning back if you get it wrong. Apparently with the "redkote" it can be dissolved with a range of solvents if required. In addition it is transparent, so can see what is going on underneath.
On another note, have a spare ignition lead spacer. Pm me your address if you'd like me to send it through.
Cheers,
Andrew
So, we have a conclusion to this story for now...
The sealant turned up at lunchtime on Friday, so it would not have time to dry prior to Bastille Day. So flushed the tank again with phosphoric acid, followed by water and then metho. Half an hour later it was perfectly dry, and no sign of rust.
Re-installed the tank, then a bit of a test run - everything worked fine, but the engine was not revving quite as freely as it should. Idled for a bit while I got the timing light and the engine cuts out. The brand new condenser on the brand new distributor had gone open circuit. No problem i thought - grab a new 2cv condensor from the spares stash (same capacitance), solder the correct end on it and test. Again, dead out of the box! So back in with the original SEV distributor and off we go. Engine cuts out randomly a couple of times during the test run, with a large pop on re-starting - grrr- dodgy connection on somewhere in the ignition. Stop and give the ignition switch 30 or so operations and give the wires behind it a good giggling. Off we go again, and problem disappears - phew!
Anyhow, made it to the display ok - was a perfect day and and was in great company with a fantastic turnout from the Citroen contingent.
The son of the the PO thought the engine had been re-built prior to him passing away, and this would be consistent with the way it is behaving. I have now put around 200km on it, and the sticky valves have unstuck (no more clatter), and it is starting to rev more freely. The tiny exhaust leak in one of the front clamps seems to have sealed it's self up also and engine seems to be oil tight except for a tiny leak around the oil pressure sensor. So all good
Plan is now to use the car regularly put some gentle kms on it. Will have a look in the fuel tank in a few months and make sure the rust has not come back. If it does, I'll whip it out and put the sealant in.
So.... another GS back on the road
Need to do a few small jobs on the "Italian thing", then Dyane, Birotor, and perhaps CX to follow (sooner or later)
Cheers,
Andrew
didn't have my camera there... but others didGreat news (but where’s the event pics