Old, old starter motor fixemup

Rinse in fresh water and then put them in soapy water to neutralise the acid

I use Lectric Washing Soda ($4 per Kg @Coles) for the warm soapy water, the Alkaline pH of 11 is quite effective at neutralising acids.
Got this tip from bottle of AliBrite Aluminium cleaner (hydroflouric & sulfuric acids)

"Before the advent of modern cleaning products, washing soda was the main product used for doing the laundry and household cleaning.
Lectric Washing Soda is made from 100% natural sodium carbonate and contains no phosphates, dyes, colourants or fragrance"
 
For any kiddies watching this, the acid dipping sequence is thus. Dip the cleaned ferrous casing parts in a strong hydrochloric solution for a coupla minutes to get a good clean etched surface ready for paint. Rinse in fresh water and then put them in soapy water to neutralise the acid. Dry quickly with a hair dryer ( I use a gas torch) then paint them while the metal is still warm. Works a treat.
Mmmm - hydrochloric acid may be a little aggressive - I tend to prefer something like POR-15 Metal Prep which can be used as de-rusting agent. Best used warm - so either soak part in the sun or warm up the solution if its a cold day. Have also used electrolysis to de-rust parts - eg the block in my profile pic...
 
Nice work there Graham, just another thing you need to check and that is that the insulation is lower than the copper segments on the commutator. (y)

I like the repair option for the home DIY'er because it usually works out a lot cheaper than paying the professionals and is rewarding as shown by your results.
Professionals are hard to find for that sort of work. Most seem to be replacers not repairers. Our local big auto electrician has Great Danes in the office and I'd rate them above the young blokes there. There's an old school guy not far away who actually understands repairs.
 
Mmm, I have to say that CRC red urethane is the ducks giblets for this kind of work.

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Mmmm - hydrochloric acid may be a little aggressive - I tend to prefer something like POR-15 Metal Prep which can be used as de-rusting agent. Best used warm - so either soak part in the sun or warm up the solution if its a cold day. Have also used electrolysis to de-rust parts - eg the block in my profile pic...
Remember that chemical cleaners will eventually dissolve the iron after the rust and leave a film of carbon on the surface that you should remove before painting. Don't leave steel parts in acid or chelating solutions for too long. Vinegar saturated with salt is worth trying if fully immersed.
 
I have not read all this but the beginning indicated a lack of repairers of such stuff, presumably around Brisbane.
Previously I posted this guy's contact & suggested it might be good to copy & paste.
SAL DRAMICANIN
0412 462 149
slavisa_d@hotmail.com
In Sunnybank a Bne suburb.
Old time [maybe in his 50's] Eastern European Slavian Auto Elec who rebuilds anything electrical.
A totally useless Renault Ducellier starter Bendix he rebuilt in 10 minutes & had the new cam & wedge rollers in stacks of old boxes. Gratis, he knew the problem was really important to me. Lovely man. JG
 
Forgot to mention including rewinding armatures etc. He had oven & all. Non lazy & a blast from the past!
 
It's alive! The conclusion of this starter fix-em-up has been on the back burner for some time but finally it's complete.

I found some plastic wrapping tape on ebay. It's really thin and crinkles easy but doesn't take up much space inside a steel casing, it worked. It took a while to figure out how to hard wire it to a battery (see below) but thanks to the wonderful library which is the internet I got it sorted. It spins incredibly fast when tested at 12 volts and has a super strong solenoid.

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It's alive! The conclusion of this starter fix-em-up has been on the back burner for some time but finally it's complete.

I found some plastic wrapping tape on ebay. It's really thin and crinkles easy but doesn't take up much space inside a steel casing, it worked. It took a while to figure out how to hard wire it to a battery (see below) but thanks to the wonderful library which is the internet I got it sorted. It spins incredibly fast when tested at 12 volts and has a super strong solenoid.

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That might work on quite a big engine!
 
I haven't seen the thread, but in the future (or if this one fails) you can try Kapton tape (I find it in electronics shops like Jaycar, etc) for insulating windings, etc. That is the ducks' giblets. Used in modern transformers, etc. Excellent characteristics for heat/insulator etc.
 
Thanks Schiltzdude, I tried my local Jaycar without any joy, staff apathy being part of the problem. Truth is I got tired of driving all over town for a 'frikin' roll of tape. So ebay to the rescue. True it's not pretty but if the tape does what was claimed I'm on a winner. It does however, looks like the ducks giblets when hidden inside the case.

 
Sounds as if Mr Fregate's Jaycar store isn't as responsive as the excellent folk at Osborne Park!
Some Jayca Stores are resellers like in the Dick Smith days. A lot of these stores are more consumer orientated than components for the hobbyist.

Jayca does offer a mail order system but like buying anything online you incur postage/freight cost and waiting time.

Like has been experienced by Mr Fregate not all Jaycar stores are created equal.
 
your electrical wholesaler will have rubberised electrical linesman tape i dont know how it would go with the heat but it stretches to all kinds of contours and sticks to itself ,and yes check to see there are no nicks or blemishes in varnish insulation PUGS
Pugs they call it self amalgamating tape.
 
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