Need some input on removing type 330-06 gearbox

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Longlivekel

Member
Tadpole
Tadpole
Joined
Nov 13, 2023
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Location
United states
Hey everyone!
I just joined the group, because I am seeing a lot of helpful Renault posts!
I have a 72 a110 dinalpin 1289cc with the type 330-06 gearbox. Unfortunately the shifter fork has become disconnected in the gearbox, or something is broken.
Does anyone have any good documentation on removing the gearbox?
I live in the states.
Thank you!!!
 
Hi Longlivekel,

Whereabouts in the USA? There are quite a few of us in the pnw.

As far as pulling the gearbox, I think you may need to pull the entire drive train. As once the gearbox is out there is nothing to support the engine on the forward side.

More experienced members will chime in soon I'm sure.
 
I am located in Kansas City, MO area. I am pretty sure I will have to pull the whole gearbox, I just wasn't sure if the whole suspension needs to be removed to get the space to pull the axles/axle tubes.
 
It’s not so much removing the drivetrain as it is a matter of removing the body!

It’s pretty simple. 8 bolts on the crossmember above the diff and 8 bolts on the rear engine mounts on the chassis rails. Hoses cable and wires disconnected.

Then get a couple of strong friends over and jsut lift the rear of the body up, swing it over sideways and rest it on something.
 
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Haakon said:
It’s not so much removing the drivetrain as it is a matter of removing the body!

It’s pretty simple. 8 bolts on the crossmember above the diff and 8 bolts on the rear engine mounts on the chassis rails. Hoses cable and wires disconnected.

Then get a couple of strong friends over and jsut lift the rear of the body up, swing it over sideways and rest it on something.
Click to expand...
Or just use a chain block attached to a rafter in the shed and lift the body off with that if you are doing it on your Pat Malone.
 
There is a small roll pin on the gear linkage rod, inside the end housing, that can break. You are left with no gear selection. If this is the problem, you do NOT need to remove the gearbox. You need to disconnect the gear lever linkage and the speedometer cable, and then unfasten all the 10 mm nuts around the end casing. I'd recommend having a workshop manual first!! You can find the manuals on line (Ebay) from time to time and there are people in USA with these cars and probably with manuals.

Getting it back together is fiddly as you have to drive in the new roll pin through a narrow gap between the end housing and the main gearbox with gasket and gasket cement in place, ready to tighten. I've done it twice, just to replace the end seal where the linkage goes in - DO REPLACE that seal and get a new boot to cover it up and keep the dirt off the shaft that slides in and out.

I have changed a gearbox without removing the whole unit. You can rotate the swing axles enough do this by unfastening the six 17 mm nuts on each side and supporting the engine properly. It is very difficult to unfasten the top gearbox rubber mount though! The car is old enough to make it worthwhile to do as Haakon suggests - I would lift the body high and support it safely and just wheel out the whole engine/gearbox/suspension unit as he suggests. But you might be lucky and do the job with the gearbox in place if it is the roll pin.
 
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John, thank you so much! The press pin was snapped, just like you mentioned!

Screenshot 2023-11-12 at 2.23.57 PM.jpg
 
Longlivekel,
This may be of help :

Sam's Alpine A110 1600S !!!

Sam and I have been friends for about 5 years. He heard I worked on classic Renaults, and wanted a few things done on his Silver V85. I did quite a bit of work for him, a real tune up and re-set all the front suspension (mod the accident damaged LH front) He was very chuffed and has returned...
www.aussiefrogs.com

But get yourself a Genuine Renault Workshop manual for a Renault R8 or R10, you will have everything you need to work on your car.
Ray
 
Longlivekel said:
John, thank you so much! The press pin was snapped, just like you mentioned!

View attachment 230677
Click to expand...
Excellent. They don't break with normal use in my experience. All that means is that I havn't broken one, I suppose...

I know enough to be dangerous here, regarding seals. There's a genuine Renault seal that is quite deep along its axis, and I"m told that some seals are designed for rotating shafts and some for sliding shafts! Some owners have fitted two seals into that housing. I replaced my last one perhaps 5-6 years ago and it hasn't leaked a drop since. I do have the correct bellows fitting over the top but you could improvise with something locally available. That's a standard (if metric) size roll pin by the way and seals of that size are available here in Oz over the counter.

You can see the sliding wedge thingy on the selector arm - I guess it is knocking the gear lever over to select reverse against its spring that give the greatest shock to the pin.

Have fun reassembling!
 
I have only owned the car for about 1 year now, but I will definitely see if that pin has a wear mark anywhere to indicate that it was hitting anything. As for the size, I think it is an M5 or a 7/32 roll pin. I should have some in my possession tomorrow.

For the shifter seal, I believe I know what you are referring to. For my classic minis, you could stuff a second seal on the shift rod and stop any links as well.
My main goal was to just enjoy this thing. I got the heater rolling in it and then this happened. Next year we plan to move around 700 miles from here and that is when I was considering swapping the motor and gearbox. Since I have the 1289cc, it is just dirt slow.
 
When you re-assemble, you'll need to make a 10 thou thick gasket. It sets the preload on the topshaft bearings, that's what the ring that fell out in the picture does. From memory the oilseals to use are 12 x 30 x 7 R23 in the original place and you can put a 12 x 24 x 7 R23 underneath it. I,m sure the 4 speed is 12mm the 5 speeds are 13mm or 15mm. easy enough to measure the shaft.
 
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