My XM has landed
- Thread starter aquinian
- Start date
Inconsistent is probably a better character summary.
The actual harness diagrams were all but impossible to photograph so far - the print screening plus camera resolution aren't meshing (yet - I remain hopeful).
The actual harness diagrams were all but impossible to photograph so far - the print screening plus camera resolution aren't meshing (yet - I remain hopeful).
Attachments
You know this could be quite easy to find ... There will be a bunch of relays along the front. Pull each off, give it a clean and swap it with it's neighbour (except the series/parallel relay if there is one ... I think they have the bitron sensor though). That way if it suddenly starts working, you know it was dirty connections, if something else stops working at the same time, you have a dead relay (you just moved it to a different circuit).
seeya,
Shane L.
seeya,
Shane L.
Not all relays are the same, so be a little careful about swapping them blindly. Some have an additional comopnent inside, I think the purple ones. One of the 4 relays behind the right headlamp is for A/C control and the other 3 relate to the EFI/pump. It's often the relay socket that's more of a problem than the relay, so check fr burning there.
I inadvertently bought a Series 1 passenger side strut mount a little while ago for my Seties 1.5 Xm completely forgetting that the last time I changed the strut mounts I changed over to the Series 2 larger inner diameter style. Let me know if you need the passenger side strut mount and we can discuss off-line.
Cheers,
Nerelle
Cheers,
Nerelle
Thanks for the help, guys. The cooling fan issue was indeed a bad relay, and the car now runs as cool as a cucumber, even on a hot day, which is great!
OK, below I'll post some pics from today with comments/questions.
OK, below I'll post some pics from today with comments/questions.
OK, first up, a strange story. So, under a plastic cover behind the driver's side headlight are four relay connectors. Three have relays in them, one was empty when we got the car. Here they are laid out:
Since we couldn't get the car started, we thought it a good idea to fit a relay to that socket. It made no difference, so we forgot about it. Some time after the car was running, we realised that the relay must have actuated and shorted something out, burning the wire out which ran from it to the ignition module here:
This affected nothing, as far as we can tell. The car still ran fine, and there were no ill effects. Very strange. My auto electrician was amazed. He kept saying, "But it runs!" Anyway, he stripped the burned wire out of the loom, finding that it had not damaged any other wires (amazing also!), and replaced it but left it disconnected until we find out what it's supposed to be.
Anybody happen to know? (The new wire is the white one you can see in the vacant relay socket, and the other end is connected with a blue connector to the remnants of the wire coming out of the ignition unit in the second photo...
Since we couldn't get the car started, we thought it a good idea to fit a relay to that socket. It made no difference, so we forgot about it. Some time after the car was running, we realised that the relay must have actuated and shorted something out, burning the wire out which ran from it to the ignition module here:
This affected nothing, as far as we can tell. The car still ran fine, and there were no ill effects. Very strange. My auto electrician was amazed. He kept saying, "But it runs!" Anyway, he stripped the burned wire out of the loom, finding that it had not damaged any other wires (amazing also!), and replaced it but left it disconnected until we find out what it's supposed to be.
Anybody happen to know? (The new wire is the white one you can see in the vacant relay socket, and the other end is connected with a blue connector to the remnants of the wire coming out of the ignition unit in the second photo...
Now for the air-con and interior fan problem...
So it turns out that the fan controller must have failed at some prior stage, and somebody has fitted a potentiometer and a toggle switch to bypass it:
Here's what the control unit looks like:
My auto-electrician reckons there's power getting to the controller, so hopefully that's the only problem. Does anybody have one of these in a wreck please?
Also, I really need more dash parts. Chris (Greenblood) sent me an excellent surround, but the rest of the front facia of the dash is completely ruined by the sun and needs replacement. Likewise the binnacle over the instruments.
So it turns out that the fan controller must have failed at some prior stage, and somebody has fitted a potentiometer and a toggle switch to bypass it:
Here's what the control unit looks like:
My auto-electrician reckons there's power getting to the controller, so hopefully that's the only problem. Does anybody have one of these in a wreck please?
Also, I really need more dash parts. Chris (Greenblood) sent me an excellent surround, but the rest of the front facia of the dash is completely ruined by the sun and needs replacement. Likewise the binnacle over the instruments.
Tell me all the numbers, on the wires, on the burned up relay socket.
Hi Adam,
Mate, I've stripped the binding back a fair way and there are no numbers visible. We have a red, a green, and a kind of dark brown/grey, as well as the replaced white one - not sure what that was originally. I suspect it's the relay that is somehow related to the air-con, since three of the four are ignition relays, from what I've read...
Mate, I've stripped the binding back a fair way and there are no numbers visible. We have a red, a green, and a kind of dark brown/grey, as well as the replaced white one - not sure what that was originally. I suspect it's the relay that is somehow related to the air-con, since three of the four are ignition relays, from what I've read...
Sure it's not the front fogs?
Actually, looks very aftermarket/alarmlike.
Also your cruise module has received a fair knock!
Actually, looks very aftermarket/alarmlike.
Also your cruise module has received a fair knock!
Fait attention
One of the three cooling relays differs from the other two
The two marked F1 & F2 ((and they be in different positions in your car, but always behind PAX (Near) side radiator support panel))
are SPST
The so called 'change over' relay is SPDT. Very important. Externally they look the same.
Where I live the auto retail outlets only stock the former.
The latter can be bought at Jaycar.
One of the three cooling relays differs from the other two
The two marked F1 & F2 ((and they be in different positions in your car, but always behind PAX (Near) side radiator support panel))
are SPST
The so called 'change over' relay is SPDT. Very important. Externally they look the same.
Where I live the auto retail outlets only stock the former.
The latter can be bought at Jaycar.
Also Aqiunian,
I believe lesson one, book one in the Citroen electrical manual should be:
NEVER take your Cit (of any age) to an Anglo-saxon electrician.
Gallic electric logic (indeed most galllic logic) is incomprehensible to non-french peoples.
Try and make head or tail of CX airconditioning wiring for example.
The best primer to illustrate my point however, is to study XM start key wiring.
After about a day studying the wiregram, referring to the key switch, then back to the wiregram etc, the dawn breaks.
They have wired it back the front. The feed goes to the outside, the output from the middle.
Why? This type of reverse thinking pervades the whole car. And explains why a lot of Cit wiring is bodged later in life.
Gallic logic.
So- never take your Cit to an anglo electrician. Study it yourself, all the time thinking french.
I believe lesson one, book one in the Citroen electrical manual should be:
NEVER take your Cit (of any age) to an Anglo-saxon electrician.
Gallic electric logic (indeed most galllic logic) is incomprehensible to non-french peoples.
Try and make head or tail of CX airconditioning wiring for example.
The best primer to illustrate my point however, is to study XM start key wiring.
After about a day studying the wiregram, referring to the key switch, then back to the wiregram etc, the dawn breaks.
They have wired it back the front. The feed goes to the outside, the output from the middle.
Why? This type of reverse thinking pervades the whole car. And explains why a lot of Cit wiring is bodged later in life.
Gallic logic.
So- never take your Cit to an anglo electrician. Study it yourself, all the time thinking french.
There are usually three diagrams for Xantia/XM-era cars and later. You get the circuit diagram, the harness layout diagram and then the location diagram. You usually need to study all three together with the component numbering list to make sense of it, especially given that there are only a few different colours of wire used and you have to rely upon tags and pin numbers.
There's also a start inhibitor relay over on the left on later V6 models, but that may not apply to earlier cars. If you find a large capacitor that's been added to the loom near the battery, it's apparently a service addition to deal with some kind of hunting problem. So, leave it there as it has a purpose.
There's also a start inhibitor relay over on the left on later V6 models, but that may not apply to earlier cars. If you find a large capacitor that's been added to the loom near the battery, it's apparently a service addition to deal with some kind of hunting problem. So, leave it there as it has a purpose.
Haynes simply has no room for wiring info and they only include what they think is 'typical' for selected areas. The collected XM diagrams filled a very large folder plus various supplements. The printed wiring diagrams for the various Xantia models and just the earliest C5 filled a few volumes each. There is so much wiring info that there is a separate factory info system for wiring for C5 onwards. You'd still need the printed diagrams for Xantia/XM and earlier.
Explains a lot - when I went through the PSA supplied ones, they were much more accurate!
Has anyone tried this?
I am concerned about engine oil temperature in my '95 XUD turbo diesel
In particular, the merits of the original oil/ water cooler.
This thing
Is it intended to be an oil cooler or heater?
If it is PSA's intention to cool 100C oil with 90C water then I can't see it being much of a cooler. If however the idea is to heat the oil quickly in cold climes then it has a lot of merit.
I ebayed an external oil/ outside air cooler, sandwich plate adapter and hoses and fitted them. A dedicated 7inch thermo controlled fan completes the installation and my oil stays below 100C. Also oil cooling is disconnected from water cooling thereby sidestepping corrosion problems and water seeping into oil. (as reported in UK forums)
I am concerned about engine oil temperature in my '95 XUD turbo diesel
In particular, the merits of the original oil/ water cooler.
This thing
Is it intended to be an oil cooler or heater?
If it is PSA's intention to cool 100C oil with 90C water then I can't see it being much of a cooler. If however the idea is to heat the oil quickly in cold climes then it has a lot of merit.
I ebayed an external oil/ outside air cooler, sandwich plate adapter and hoses and fitted them. A dedicated 7inch thermo controlled fan completes the installation and my oil stays below 100C. Also oil cooling is disconnected from water cooling thereby sidestepping corrosion problems and water seeping into oil. (as reported in UK forums)
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The oil needs to get to a certain temperature to boil off contaminates. I would not be worried if the oil goes above 100c start worrying if it goes over 150. The standard system keeps the oil in a temperature range, as you have suggested which is good for it. As with anything on a car, be very careful about modifying things that the factory would have thought long and hard about, generally they do it for a reason and most times it is a very good reason.
Save your money, there will be plenty of other issues to spend your hard earned dollars.
Save your money, there will be plenty of other issues to spend your hard earned dollars.