More questions....

tlampre

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Sep 9, 2005
Messages
167
Location
Melbourne
What side of the gear lever should the numbers be on an automatic BX16TRS? Right, where the driver can see them? Mine are on the left.
 
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Don't ask me why, but they can be on either.
I have a friend with a Trs and they're on the drivers side, my Tri wagon also have them drivers side, yet a friends TZi are on the passengers side.
I asked this same question a few weeks back and that was the response I got. It must have depended on whether the factory manager thought to order ones for RHD cars and if not, they just slapped LHD types on.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :nownow:
Bloody annoying on the other side innit?


Alan S:cheers:
 
They're all on the left.

Obviously you should be living in a country that drives on the left, you filthy Anglo-phile! How dare you make us even think of swapping over the controls of our beautiful new model to the wrong side! Sacre bleu, etc. The very idea is insulting, so just for that, we're going to do a really half-arsed job of it. If you have a manual car don't even think about trying to adjust the clutch cable! Serves you right, too. :joker:

Chris
 
Great, nothing like clearly defined boundaries of doubt and uncertainty. :rolleyes:

Reason I ask is because I'm trying to figure out the origins of my TRS. I saw a picture on cardomain last night with the numbers on the right, the car was in Oz. (The owner was asking if he should take it drag racing - I voted 'yes' :D)

Mine has imperial instruments which may have been a swap for the originals but I'm having my doubts. Surely if the whole instrument cluster was replaced they use the right part? And secondhand bought locally would still be metric? :confused:

I purchased the car thinking it had 157thou *KM* on the clock, not miles. If the instruments are original then that's really 260thou km. The wear on the seats has me thinking much more, which could be the case if it's a half-arsed change-over. If this is true it may better used as a parts car for something less used.

A 141thou 1990 *manual* BX16 appeared on the autotrader site this morning. $1350, no reg or RWC. :deal:...maybe...
 
Jack Z said:
1990 BX16 :confused:

:nownow: :nownow: I don't think so....!

BX16 ......... Valve ????? You don't want one of these unless you enjoy working on cars yourself. You'll get taken to the cleaners by some repairers as soon as the see the 16valve badge.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Jack Z said:
1990 BX16 :confused:

:nownow: :nownow: I don't think so....!
Well, that's what it says! '89 model but didn't get a plate until '90, perhaps?

But really, who cares, so long as the 141K and VGC claim is genuine? Getting a less worn base to work with is the main thing. I was mislead about my current car :blackeye: but I'm better informed now. Hopefully it will be a case of second time lucky.
 
DoubleChevron said:
BX16 ......... Valve ????? You don't want one of these unless you enjoy working on cars yourself. You'll get taken to the cleaners by some repairers as soon as the see the 16valve badge.

seeya,
Shane L.
:2cents:...clunk... sound of penny dropping. BX16 <> 16TRS. Bummer.

I enjoy working on my own cars but I don't want a 16valver, not the sort of car I'm after.
 
tlampre said:
Well, that's what it says! '89 model but didn't get a plate until '90, perhaps?

But really, who cares, so long as the 141K and VGC claim is genuine? Getting a less worn base to work with is the main thing. I was mislead about my current car :blackeye: but I'm better informed now. Hopefully it will be a case of second time lucky.

Wait for Alans comments about low milage BX16valvers ... He purchased one a few years back. You'll need to go over it with a fine toothed comb and make sure there hasn't been a lot of shortcuts taken when it's been worked on (eg: heats shields been removed ... and not replaced, heater taps broken ). The only Citroen I've looked under the bonnet of that comes close to being as bad as the BX16valve, is the V6 XM :eek: they really had to cram that 16valve motor in there .. it *just* fits. This is weird as it's just the same motor but with a 16valve head :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
I guess it's worth a call to the owner and clarify what it is, I jumped to the conclusion that it was a 16TRS because of the price. All the 16v's I've seen have been >$4000. $1350 for a low K one sounds very cheap.

Even if it is a bargain priced 16v it's not what I want. Docile and economical is my main priority.
 
tlampre said:
I guess it's worth a call to the owner and clarify what it is, I jumped to the conclusion that it was a 16TRS because of the price. All the 16v's I've seen have been >$4000. $1350 for a low K one sounds very cheap.

Even if it is a bargain priced 16v it's not what I want. Docile and economical is my main priority.

I've just done a job on an Mi16 that would cost around $4500 if done by a "professional" It was a 'follow up' job and it appears at this stage that I may have to redo the entire job plus more to get it right; how does the "Bargain priced $1350" sound now in a case like this, when you can buy a late model one owner 16V for around $5500 in Sydney??:confused:

Alan S
 
As I said, I don't want a 16v. The other auto TRS I saw is also described as a BX16 on autotrader too. An auto 16v? Won't know for sure until I call them both.
 
tlampre said:
As I said, I don't want a 16v. The other auto TRS I saw is also described as a BX16 on autotrader too. An auto 16v? Won't know for sure until I call them both.
I don't think there were ever any Auto BX16 valves... at least not in the brochures I've seen.... besides an Auto wouldn't suit the torque curve of the 16V.

Regards,
Simon
 
I just rang the owners of the 2 cars - the $1350 manual is a 16 valver given to a 19 year old who doesn't want it. :eek:

The auto is a 1600. The owner didn't think it was a TRS but then he knew nothing about about various model numbers. However, he's had it for years and maintained it himself. They own 5 Cit's. His wife described him as a 'Citroen Fanatic' (is there any other kind?) and he's driving it around at the moment, it's one of their 'backup cars' when the others break down. :D He's under orders to get rid of one...

He said the hydraulics are in good nick which is my main point of concern. I casually asked him he he would have any qualms about driving it to Adelaide and he was very quick to say he'd have no lack of confidence in doing that. It was only then that I owned up about my own predicament.

So, it looks like one for the shortlist.
 
tlampre said:
I just rang the owners of the 2 cars - the $1350 manual is a 16 valver given to a 19 year old who doesn't want it. :eek:

SOME BODY STOP ME............. Please before I get into big g/f type trouble........

ok really what is wrong with it......
 
crosspug said:
SOME BODY STOP ME............. Please before I get into big g/f type trouble........

ok really what is wrong with it......

...ha ha, be afraid be very afraid, your 16valve had a motsa spent on it before you snapped it up - you are well infront of the game, plan to stay there. :cool:

although, at $1300.00 you'd have to be tempted - hmm, 2 16valves and no g/f

Cheers
Chris
 
GreenBlood said:
..

although, at $1300.00 you'd have to be tempted - hmm, 2 16valves and no g/f

Cheers
Chris

Well as soon as both of them broke down at the same time he would be well and trul &^%$#@, so the end result would be the same I suppose.:eek:
 
UFO said:
Well as soon as both of them broke down at the same time he would be well and trul &^%$#@, so the end result would be the same I suppose.:eek:

...yep, mines off the road again (16valve) - lucky I have the reliable D and the ever faithful Mrs GB :approve:

Love the BX16valve, but it is let down by stupid little things like plastic thermostat housings :crazy: and hoses that take the most ridiculous indirect route requiring almost a complete dismantle of the top end to re-fit. I seem to get 3 or 4 months of road use before it lets me down as it did at the last French car day - I reckon it's cost me more in coolant than it has in petrol. :joker:

Cheers
Chris
 
GreenBlood said:
your 16valve had a motsa spent on it before you snapped it up - you are well infront of the game, plan to stay there. :cool:

Don't worry, Shanes got 25hrs on the CX paintjob, I've got 9hrs chasing, replacing and caressing return lines..........:roflmao:

With one of the octopus still to come:crazy:

GreenBlood said:
although, at $1300.00 you'd have to be tempted - hmm, 2 16valves and no g/f

Cheers
Chris

Hell its probably cheaper to run the 2nd 16valve than the......... just:clown:

Jono
 
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