Low-Rise Car Hoists

geodon

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Fellow Frogger
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Geelong
I need a hoist! I'm getting too old to get on the floor and up again over & over.

But my workshop only has a clearance of 2300mm so I had effectively given up on a hoist. So this is really my only option:



Recently I had a bit of an epiphany. Looking at low-rise hoists on YouTube I saw guys getting around on one of these thingies:

https://www.k-bid.com/auction/67/item/1

The proverbial light bulb lit up in my head! OK MaxJax and similar only offer a lift of 1200-1300mm but with with that chair I not only would be able to operate but I would be able to see what I'm doing without having to crank my head backwards so as to see up AND I would be in a more comfortable semi-reclined position!

The "chairs" are not sold in Australia and cost $US325 but, ye Gods, they are only 3 rectangles of steel, 2 of which are hinged. I already have 6+ castors. I reckon I could make one fully padded for less than $100.

Am I peeing into the wind here?

Is anyone using a low-rise hoist??
 
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Hi.

There was some discussion on here a couple of years ago about scissor hoists that had limited lift, so that might be an alternative option, but you wouldn't have good access to the transmission or middle part of the vehicle.

Low lifting height would be very convenient for wheel, brake, suspension work etc, which is mostly what needs to be worked on.

It is certainly an option, as the cost of raising a shed to accommodate a full lift height hoist and the faffing around won't be worth the cost or effort for most casual users.

My only thought is that while in the gliding chair under the vehicle, you couldn't use your leg muscles much to apply force to things as well as under a full height hoist.

I think it has merit.

The only other negative is that you have two hoist columns in your shed all of the time??
Also what thickness and reinforcement does the concrete require to mount the columns on?

Cheers.
 
Hoists have locking cams all the way up don't they? Can you just buy a standard hoist and only lift it to a height clears (you could even put a stop switch on the roof of your shed that stops the hoist raising further... it wouldn't be hard to do). That way if you ever put a 4wd or raised roof vehicle of any sort on it. you won't hit the roof ( it probably won't save your bonnet or boot lid if you forget them though :clown:

that seat looks like a great idea to me :)

My biggest concern with the 2post hoist is the cement slab. in my shed at least I don't trust it in the slightest. I'm going to find a 4post hoist ( jacking beams don't see hugely expensive on used hoists). I've seen quite a few 4post hoists for sale ~ $2500 (used obviously) with a jacking beam fitted. these allow you to lift the car up off the hoist in a similar manner to a 2post hoist

I'm extending the shed here to get some height. The council put a stop to that until I had permits ( bugger it ). Its nearly 12months down the track and they still haven't made any progress on the permits. Don't start me on the local council though. ARRRrrrhhhhhggggg. They excel in making the simplest task absolutely impossible.
 
The hoist I'm considering I think has posts with wheels on it so I can undo the 6-8 bolts holding it down & move it aside. I think it may also have quick disconnect hydraulic connections. (assuming the Aussie one is a copy of a MaxJax.)

Yes the concrete is an issue. I will have to cut 2 1000x1000mm sections of the existing stuff then dig it out to ~180mm deep. I intend to use Chemi-weld dynabolts. But compared the slab on a new shed that's chicken feed in $

Leverage?? I never thought of that. My mate wants to drop the rear end of his XJ6. I may have to put both of us on the business end of a lever to tackle it.

Shane, I looked at standard ones to get more lift. The conventional 2-post hoists have a baseplate that is an integral part of the structure as well as covering the hydraulic lines to the other side. It's 50mm high. It would be a monumental PITA to negotiate that on a chair with castors. Anyway, I can get drop-in feet for the lifters that gives me an extra 100mm or so.
 
I just noticed there's a "h" missing on the link to Aussie Hoists.
 
Shane, would it be possible to just cut the concrete slab where the feet would go and pour some concrete blocks say 1/2m by 1/2m by 1/2m (or whatever is required) to make a solid foundation for the hoist? Just thinking aloud.

As for lifting shed roofs, how high is the ridge? If that provides enough clearance replace it with a beam and hinge the sides above the hoist so they can swing up when lifting stuff on the hoist. A fair bit of engineering but saves building a new roof and having to deal with councils.
 
The hoist I'm considering I think has posts with wheels on it so I can undo the 6-8 bolts holding it down & move it aside. I think it may also have quick disconnect hydraulic connections. (assuming the Aussie one is a copy of a MaxJax.)

Yes the concrete is an issue. I will have to cut 2 1000x1000mm sections of the existing stuff then dig it out to ~180mm deep. I intend to use Chemi-weld dynabolts. But compared the slab on a new shed that's chicken feed in $

Leverage?? I never thought of that. My mate wants to drop the rear end of his XJ6. I may have to put both of us on the business end of a lever to tackle it.

Shane, I looked at standard ones to get more lift. The conventional 2-post hoists have a baseplate that is an integral part of the structure as well as covering the hydraulic lines to the other side. It's 50mm high. It would be a monumental PITA to negotiate that on a chair with castors. Anyway, I can get drop-in feet for the lifters that gives me an extra 100mm or so.

That's a really good point. the clear floor standard 2post hoists will be far too high for the shed. Yeah, the baseplate would drive you nuts rolling around.

this is the one I'd love to get, I don't need to touch the floor, and you can wheel it around.



I've seen one episode where he rolls the hoist around with a car on it. so you can put it over in the corner out of the way.
 
Shane, would it be possible to just cut the concrete slab where the feet would go and pour some concrete blocks say 1/2m by 1/2m by 1/2m (or whatever is required) to make a solid foundation for the hoist? Just thinking aloud.

As for lifting shed roofs, how high is the ridge? If that provides enough clearance replace it with a beam and hinge the sides above the hoist so they can swing up when lifting stuff on the hoist. A fair bit of engineering but saves building a new roof and having to deal with councils.
I'll start my own thread someday.... I don't want to take over someone elses :)
 
AAAAND I blundered on my clearance! I actually have 2660mm to the bottom of the transverse beams holding the roof up. The beams are 300x50 Oregon with 40mm batten for the corrugated iron so I COULD have fitted a standard 2 poster with the uprights between 2 beams as they need 3000mm. But the baseplate killed it.
 
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Roger Brundle went through the same thing. He purchased a low lift hoist.



His shed roof was very low.
 
I thought I would update punters with what I ended up with.

This is the hoist I chose:


It's a copy of the American MaxJax unit.



My concrete floor was well below par & only 75mm deep so I had a concreter create 2 pits 1000mm square & 400 deep where the 2 posts would go.

The hoist came with Dyna bolts as it's designed to be semi-removable. The posts have provision for wheels to aid movement. I suggest if you go that route you have help. Doing it solo runs the risk of being pinned down until someone finds your remains.

I hate Dyna bolts because their grip is hit or miss & my hoist was going to be fixed so I used M20 250mm long Chemset bolts epoxied into the holes. I hired Chuck Noriss' hammer drill with a 24mm diamond tipped bit for the drilling.

2 post hoists offer the best access but are the most unstable. 2 free standing posts means the weight tends to make them want to tilt inwards so your life depends on the 3 outside bolts on each post. I had an old engine gantry I made when engine cranes were not around composed of of 3 lengths of 60mm steel tube so I cut it down and welded a length to each post & bolted a transverse length to the uprights. This means the tilting forces cancel out & that shifts the force downwards. I took advantage of being close to a double brick wall & having the drill to put a hole thru the wall & then installed a length of M20 allthread and welded it to the frame of the hoist. This means if the hoist slews left or right it has to take a double brick wall with it.

The other risk is the hoist may lean forward or back if the load is uneven. As I had 300x50 Oregon beams holding the roof up close by, I welded 4 struts onto each side of the transverse steel beam & fixed them to the Oregon. This means if the hoist is going to lean forward or back it will have to take the roof with it.

From the YouTube video you'll see it's designed to work with hoses on the floor & motor on a trolley. I welded the trolley to the frame (minus the wheels) that meant one hose was too long (NBD) & one was too short to reach via the roof so I had a new longer hose made by Enzed. ($300. OUCH!)

The car on it is still 100mm short of hitting the roof & I can walk under it at a crouch. To work on the reclining chair on castors I made for the job I will have to lower the car or make a higher chair. This is what MaxJax will supply @ $US325.


It's just 3 rectangles of steel. Easy to make.

Seeing I was looking at a new shed etc etc I'm satisfied with the result & wish I'd done it 20 years ago!
 

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I only have standard height shed walls (2.4m?) and put in two 4 post hoists I bought off EBay about 3 years ago. They came with the dolly wheels to roll them round but I elected to bolt them down.
I think I paid $2400 each for them on one of those discount codes. There's a jacking beam that slides along so you can remove a wheel etc.
They were easy enough to assemble, just heavy.
240V pumps with 10A plugs.
As I have an apex I can just jam a small car up in
the middle and another underneath.

Resized_20220616_225422.jpeg
 
I'm extending the shed here to get some height. The council put a stop to that until I had permits ( bugger it ). Its nearly 12months down the track and they still haven't made any progress on the permits. Don't start me on the local council though. ARRRrrrhhhhhggggg. They excel in making the simplest task absolutely impossible.
You obviously have failed to grease the correct palm/s :evil: 🤣 ;) ;)
 
I only have standard height shed walls (2.4m?) and put in two 4 post hoists I bought off EBay about 3 years ago. They came with the dolly wheels to roll them round but I elected to bolt them down.
I think I paid $2400 each for them on one of those discount codes. There's a jacking beam that slides along so you can remove a wheel etc.
They were easy enough to assemble, just heavy.
240V pumps with 10A plugs.
As I have an apex I can just jam a small car up in
the middle and another underneath.

View attachment 208590
4-posters are very stable, real easy to fit and have no grovelling around at ground level to set the lifting pads.

BUT those transverse beams that carry the jacks to lift the wheels are also a PITA to use and the longitudinal roll-ons restrict access around the hubs, suspension etc.

"You pays your money & you takes your choice"
 
4-posters are very stable, real easy to fit and have no grovelling around at ground level to set the lifting pads.

BUT those transverse beams that carry the jacks to lift the wheels are also a PITA to use and the longitudinal roll-ons restrict access around the hubs, suspension etc.

"You pays your money & you takes your choice"
Yeah, I only bought mine for storage, so I could buy more cars. I just use ramps or a jack to work on them.🤷‍♂️
 
4-posters are very stable, real easy to fit and have no grovelling around at ground level to set the lifting pads.

BUT those transverse beams that carry the jacks to lift the wheels are also a PITA to use and the longitudinal roll-ons restrict access around the hubs, suspension etc.

"You pays your money & you takes your choice"

I bought some scrap metal that resembles a hoist. it appears it needs to be firmly bolted down. By design it look like the ramps dangle within the poles (so aren't actually attached mechanically). this means it could fall over if not bolted down. I'll work it out though if I ever get around to assembling it ( each part weight about 25tons when you try to move them around).
 
I thought I would update punters with what I ended up with.

This is the hoist I chose:


It's a copy of the American MaxJax unit.



My concrete floor was well below par & only 75mm deep so I had a concreter create 2 pits 1000mm square & 400 deep where the 2 posts would go.

The hoist came with Dyna bolts as it's designed to be semi-removable. The posts have provision for wheels to aid movement. I suggest if you go that route you have help. Doing it solo runs the risk of being pinned down until someone finds your remains.

I hate Dyna bolts because their grip is hit or miss & my hoist was going to be fixed so I used M20 250mm long Chemset bolts epoxied into the holes. I hired Chuck Noriss' hammer drill with a 24mm diamond tipped bit for the drilling.

2 post hoists offer the best access but are the most unstable. 2 free standing posts means the weight tends to make them want to tilt inwards so your life depends on the 3 outside bolts on each post. I had an old engine gantry I made when engine cranes were not around composed of of 3 lengths of 60mm steel tube so I cut it down and welded a length to each post & bolted a transverse length to the uprights. This means the tilting forces cancel out & that shifts the force downwards. I took advantage of being close to a double brick wall & having the drill to put a hole thru the wall & then installed a length of M20 allthread and welded it to the frame of the hoist. This means if the hoist slews left or right it has to take a double brick wall with it.

The other risk is the hoist may lean forward or back if the load is uneven. As I had 300x50 Oregon beams holding the roof up close by, I welded 4 struts onto each side of the transverse steel beam & fixed them to the Oregon. This means if the hoist is going to lean forward or back it will have to take the roof with it.

From the YouTube video you'll see it's designed to work with hoses on the floor & motor on a trolley. I welded the trolley to the frame (minus the wheels) that meant one hose was too long (NBD) & one was too short to reach via the roof so I had a new longer hose made by Enzed. ($300. OUCH!)

The car on it is still 100mm short of hitting the roof & I can walk under it at a crouch. To work on the reclining chair on castors I made for the job I will have to lower the car or make a higher chair. This is what MaxJax will supply @ $US325.


It's just 3 rectangles of steel. Easy to make.

Seeing I was looking at a new shed etc etc I'm satisfied with the result & wish I'd done it 20 years ago!

we didn't do this sort of thing 20years ago as this sort of stuff was eye wateringly expensive! You would have only had a choice of the industrial brands such as molner :)
 
I'm happy to report that yesterday it passed the Acid Test.


1.75 tonnes of British Over-Engineering went up & down no problems.
 

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I'm happy to report that yesterday it passed the Acid Test.


1.75 tonnes of British Over-Engineering went up & down no problems.
You bought an XJ ..... When does the Etype arrive ? I have a shitbox range rover if you really want to give it a test :ROFLMAO:
 
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