Low KW EV conversion

Greenpeace

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As a follow up to my electric trike conversion I did on my "Cycle project" thread, I'm now contemplating a low KW motor car conversion.
The weapon of choice is a 1989 Suzuki Super Carry, which I have already purchased.

I'm thinking of utilising four 48V x 2000W BLDC motors and controllers much the same as the one I used on the trike. I will be retaining the 5 speed transmission to enable a wider potential for speed/acceleration..

I can purchase the 4 motors and controllers for a total cost of $620 delivered. I've located a source for 100AH 12V deep cycle lead acid batteries for $150 per unit. I'm thinking 8 of these for a 200AH 48V storage capacity.🤔
Lead acid isn't ideal given the weight (30 kg each) but considering the cost of lithium equivalents I may as well abandon the project and buy a cheap Nissan Leaf if I pursued that route.🤷‍♂️

I've done some research already and apparently there is no problem running multiple controllers off one throttle signal.

Retaining the gearbox would have other advantages, the rear drive arrangement, brakes etc are unchanged, the factory speedo would still function and the drivetrain would be already half mounted to the chassis.

The standard Carry weighs 700kg. The engine and transmission weighs 125kg. The gearbox isn't too big so I reckon the engine itself probably weighs around 100kg. I think once you add the alternator, exhaust system, fuel tank, radiator, engine oil and coolant weights, spare wheel and carrier, original 12V battery and it's cables to the pile the vehicle will be around 500kg.
The motors and controllers are 20kg in total, 8 batteries 240kg. I reckon with the motor mounts/drive, battery cradles and cabling I'll end up with a vehicle that weighs somewhere around 800kg. Plan with the batteries would be to cut the single skin load floor either side of the tailshaft, roughly in line with the sliding doors, and hang the batteries underneath. This is where the fuel tank and exhaust system currently live. I would be cutting it neatly with a 1mm disc so the floor panels can be reused as lids for the batteries. This position would keep the battery mass central and the COG low.

Biggest dilemma, how to connect the 4 motors to the gearbox input shaft? The ratio would need to be 1 to 1 as the proposed electric motors have a max rated rpm of 4500. Ideally a plate would need to be fabricated to fit the bellhousing, all the motors mount to this plate and the drive is on the inside of the bellhousing. As we are only talking 8KW in total a 420/428 MC chain, 6PK or 1" toothed belt should all be capable of coping. Other option would obviously be a gear drive but that could get exxy real quick and lubrication would be an issue. Does anyone have any thoughts on this or other power transmission ideas, friction drive?

Performance is a bit of an unknown, although I did find a company in QLD that sell a 700kg, 60V 4KW 8 seater tuk tuk and they claim it has a 60kph top speed and a 100km range from its 100AH lithium battery.🤷‍♂️
The trike has acheived 72kph, (combined bike and rider weight 150kg) and in 2nd speed (averaging 40kph) its 24AH battery pack gives a 20 km range.

The early 36V version of the Henny Kilowatt had a top speed of 64kph and a 64km range. This was from a 900kg vehicle with a 7hp (5.2KW) motor. The only stat I can't find was what the storage capacity of its 18 x 2V cells was?

Any constructive thoughts and input would be greatly appreciated.

I realise a single motor would be a lot simpler, but I like the idea of having a 6KW "limp home" mode if one of the motors or controllers were to fail. I guess you'd still get home (slowly) even if 2 or 3 motors had system failures?
 
Can you find a wrecked BEV to take the whole drive system off? Might be cheaper than buying all that crap you need and ending up with an inferior setup.

You will have 800kg mass but that is empty. Add one passenger and you're at 900 or so. And so on. How would the added mass impact range?

And something else. I don't know anything about the ratings on those transmission components (belts/chains/etc) but I would hazard a guess at takeoff the strain will be much higher than in cruising. Will they cope?

It would be nice to have those motors connected independently if you want to be able to use only some of them when you need to. Otherwise you'll have to drag along the dead motor too if it fails. Not sure what is the best way to achieve this but I am thinking a number of V belts like they have on some helis.

Given that you will keep the transmission so no need to reverse motors to drive backwards, you could use some sort of one way clutch drive on each motor. That way if one fails, it won't have to keep spinning and won't place any drag on the rest.

That said, in my experience brushless motor/controller failures have more to do with improper use rather than some inherent problem. A good quality motor/controller will not leave you stranded. Have a look online how many EVs have problems with these? Ask a cabbie with a Prius.
 
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Can you find a wrecked BEV to take the whole drive system off? Might be cheaper than buying all that crap you need and ending up with an inferior setup.

You will have 800kg mass but that is empty. Add one passenger and you're at 900 or so. And so on. How would the added mass impact range?

And something else. I don't know anything about the ratings on those transmission components (belts/chains/etc) but I would hazard a guess at takeoff the strain will be much higher than in cruising. Will they cope?

It would be nice to have those motors connected independently if you want to be able to use only some of them when you need to. Otherwise you'll have to drag along the dead motor too if it fails. Not sure what is the best way to achieve this but I am thinking a number of V belts like they have on some helis.

Given that you will keep the transmission so no need to reverse motors to drive backwards, you could use some sort of one way clutch drive on each motor. That way if one fails, it won't have to keep spinning and won't place any drag on the rest.

That said, in my experience brushless motor/controller failures have more to do with improper use rather than some inherent problem. A good quality motor/controller will not leave you stranded. Have a look online how many EVs have problems with these? Ask a cabbie with a Prius.
Yeah I'm just looking at taking baby steps with EVs at the moment. I figure if I just apply multiples of something I've already done I shouldn't get into too much trouble?🤷‍♂️
I'd be out of my depth with a Prius setup.
I reckon $2K should come close to covering the proposed components, I just found a source for the 100AH batteries @$120 each.
I guess I could apply the drive through sprag clutches/bearings, I would have no reason to reverse the direction of the motors as I would use the transmission's reverse gear. A 428 chain is used on smaller m/cycles up to around 200cc.
A bike this size with rider and
pillion would be around 300kg and have about a 12KW engine. So 4 such chains on a common shaft should cope comfortably.
It would be easy enough to run 4 seperate toggle switches to arm/disarm the motor controllers independently.
I'm thinking the motors might have to hang out the front of the bellhousing in staggered pairs and drive the transmission via an extension shaft. If I staggered them by 20mm or so I would be able to run a seperate chain on each. The shaft would only need a flanged pillow block bearing at each end to support it and a female coupling to slide over the gearbox input shaft.
Mmmmm🤔.
 
Fascinating but I'm having trouble picturing the proposed options. Any diagrams or close web images of what you're thinking?
 
Fascinating but I'm having trouble picturing the proposed options. Any diagrams or close web images of what you're thinking?
I'll do a rough sketch later, but 4 of these.

images (55).jpeg
 
Mention of four motors had me thinking a motor at each wheel, much more efficient power tranmission, but I recognise that's a major engineering modification way beyond simply supplanting the ICE. How about extending the shafts to accommodate a generously wide (serpentine or otherwise) belt, with the motors arranged around the bellhousing as you've mentioned? There's already a concern about bearings and lubrication (I'd add noise) so go the belt path.

Oh, I see by 'staggered' you can use the ICE's original space and treat each motor as a (transverse) cylinder, so an extended shaft out of the "flywheel" would accommodate several motors easily. Yep, with you, but I'd try belts in place of chains.
 
And you will need an Engineer's Certificate to register and drive on the road, buy the Nissan Leaf :)
 
And you will need an Engineer's Certificate to register and drive on the road,
A while back I saw a promo ad for Current Affair (or like) interviewing a guy with DIY EV shirt next to a car with fuel filler flap open and the petrol cap replaced by a domestic 240v wall socket for recharging.
 
Even if registered any modification will require an engineers certificate otherwise if you have a crash it will cost all the expenses as they will claim your vehicle is unroadworthy or unregistered.
 
Even if registered any modification will require an engineers certificate otherwise if you have a crash it will cost all the expenses as they will claim your vehicle is unroadworthy or unregistered.
I know, just having a bit of of fun.

Shouldnt be too hard to get engineered, particularly as I am decreasing the power output.
If I go ahead I will be utilise the ICE engine mounting points for the electric motor cradle as well.
The only hiccup really will be cutting the floor. Having said that the Ohmboy Suzuki Carry EV has more floor cut out than I plan on doing and it's certified. Other than that it's just a matter of employing good work practices.

images (56).jpeg
 
If you increase the weight of the vehicle you will probably be required to improve braking, adjust suspension and get such modifications approved.
All those lead acid batteries are probably heavier than the IC engine and ancillaries.
I have seen a car converted to battery powered. The removal of engine, fuel tank and exhaust (but retaining the transmission) allowed fitting batteries of equal weight but still resulted in minimal range, even using modern, high energy density batteries. Removing the back seat and reclassification as a two seater would, I believe, have allowed extra batteries to be added.
 
If you increase the weight of the vehicle you will probably be required to improve braking, adjust suspension and get such modifications approved.
All those lead acid batteries are probably heavier than the IC engine and ancillaries.
I have seen a car converted to battery powered. The removal of engine, fuel tank and exhaust (but retaining the transmission) allowed fitting batteries of equal weight but still resulted in minimal range, even using modern, high energy density batteries. Removing the back seat and reclassification as a two seater would, I believe, have allowed extra batteries to be added.
It is a light commercial remember, and the battery weight will be located in the cargo area.
I think at most (if the kerb weight increases) the load carrying capacity would be re-rated minus the extra kerb weight. IE. If it has a 300 kg carrying capacity (and the EV weight is 100kg more than the ICE weight), it becomes a 200 kg carrying capacity. Lot easier than modifying brakes and suspension.🤔
 
It is a light commercial remember, and the battery weight will be located in the cargo area.
I think at most (if the kerb weight increases) the load carrying capacity would be re-rated minus the extra kerb weight. IE. If it has a 300 kg carrying capacity (and the EV weight is 100kg more than the ICE weight), it becomes a 200 kg carrying capacity. Lot easier than modifying brakes and suspension.🤔
As I said, the car I was using as an example had the option of "de-rating" to a two seater to decrease GVM and permit greater battery load. The principle remains the same.
The donor vehicle, remember, has a tiny load capacity as standard 🙂
 
May want to read
$2K may become $20K
Batteries will need to be fully sealed type over wise you will literally be driving a Hydrogen Bomb
 
I've provided engineering certification for friends with 3rd party parts to preserve not only their registrations but club memberships (as authentic originals).
 
$2K may become $20K
Batteries will need to be fully sealed type over wise you will literally be driving a Hydrogen Bomb
The batteries I have earmarked are fully sealed.
It's not just EVs, I've heard of ICE cars having pretty major under bonnet (hydrogen) explosions caused by an overcharging alternator.
 
I've provided engineering certification for friends with 3rd party parts to preserve not only their registrations but club memberships (as authentic originals).
The club side of things in QLD seem a bit more liberal than some other states appear to be?

I chucked the Carry van on full rego as the lady that did all the admin work at my club resigned due to ill health.
The other officials are a bit "at sea" at present.
I'll change it over once they get sorted.

I have 9 vehicles on SIV rego and most have mods of some description, and were like that when I got them dated. I used to run everything on full rego until a couple of years ago, $$$.
The DS and Studebaker are the only 2 stockies.
 
The club side of things in QLD seem a bit more liberal than some other states appear to be?

I chucked the Carry van on full rego as the lady that did all the admin work at my club resigned due to ill health.
The other officials are a bit "at sea" at present.
I'll change it over once they get sorted.

I have 9 vehicles on SIV rego and most have mods of some description, and were like that when I got them dated. I used to run everything on full rego until a couple of years ago, $$$.
The DS and Studebaker are the only 2 stockies.

is there any boats out there using the buick/rover v8 ??? If so we can probably find one that runs in the wrong direction for you :whistle: :dance:
 
As I said, the car I was using as an example had the option of "de-rating" to a two seater to decrease GVM and permit greater battery load. The principle remains the same.
The donor vehicle, remember, has a tiny load capacity as standard 🙂
The payload isn't really an issue, even if it were de-rated to 200kg it would suit my needs. I carry bulky light weight material fairly regularly and buy the odd small to medium motorcycle more often than I should. The heaviest bikes I buy are around the 150/160kg mark.

Interestingly the van is still made in India as the Maruti Omni with an 800cc version of the 970cc engine in mine (F8A vs F10A). The van has a 400kg payload, and it is available as an 8 seat people mover as well. The average Indian adult weighs 60kg so I guess by the time you put six in the back and add the seat and seatbelt weights you're back at that 400kg mark. You can also spec it up with LPG and AC. Should be pretty nippy with 8 passengers, the AC on and running on LPG.🐌🐌
 
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