Lifting engine from engine bay

S

Stuey

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Where are the usual lifting sling points for engine removal on an R12? I've seen the Haynes manual with the 'proper' sling where one side seems to go under/around the exhaust manifold, but what about the other side?

Cheers

Stuey
 
At the LHR of the motor are some threaded holes. On 12 1.4's I have seen a couple of brackets with eye holes in place which would have been used as a lifting point. Perhaps you could fabricate a bracket to suit. Otherwise use the alternator bracket as a lifting point.
 
Thank Simon; yes, I'd considered making one of those brackets and attaching it to the rearmost holes, like on the 1.4.
 
It depends whether you are lifting out the motor only or the motor and gearbox. The lifting lug on the back of the head works if you are taking out the motor and gearbox as a unit but won't work if it's the motor only.

I personally prefer to us the two slings, one at the back of the motor around the bellhousing, and one around the water pump housing. I found the best things to use are some front seatbelts.
The belts are easily strong enough, won't damage the motor, have lifting eyes in the end and you can adjust the length to get the balance right.

Another thing is that it is possible to drop the motor down and take it out from underneath. Just lift the enging high enough to remove the engine mounts, and then lower the engine onto a dolly (an old mechanic's creeper works well). Depending on how strong your front springs are, you may have to lift the front of the car a bit to clear the motor (removing the weight of the motor and gearbox will cause the front of the 12 rise pretty high anyway). Obviously, the tubular crossmember and stabiliser bar need to be removed but apart from that it pretty easy.

Ren cheers!
 
Thanks Ren. I'm just removing the engine. I was considering a sling around the exhaust manifold and one around the alternator bracket and a custom hook where the eye on the back of the head normally is. Good point with dropping the motor, though - that's what we did with the E-Type as its motor was a little heavy...

Stuey
 
Hello Stuey,

I haven't tried it but if you're doing motor only and leaving the gearbox in the car you'll probably have to lift the motor out, there probably won't be enough room to drop the motor. Taking the front crank pully off (particularly if it's a double pully) may give you enough room but it's pretty tight up front as you probably know.
If the gearbox has already been removed then you can go up or down.
I prefer down as I don't have much height for my chain block so the motor only just clears the radiator support panel, and by lowering the motor there's less danger of damaging the engine bay should the motor slip in the harness (I don't trust the chain block much either).

Ren
cheers!
 
Can't speak for the Renault, but when we did my sons BX 16V we lifted the motor out...what a ^&#$%^& of a job that was. About the only thing we didn't get hooked on was the bloody rear number plate I'll swear.
When it came to refit, we looked at all angles and a motor racing mechanic took one look and said that although he'd never done one on the Sitruns, if it were him, he'd put it back from underneath & reckoned that was our best option on removal.....boy, was he ever right. The thing was back in position with about 20 minutes from memory.
We just looked at each other and said "!@#$%^& Sitruns%^&*(typical #$%^&* French!!!" cry cry

Might be worth a close look....just in case it works on Rennys that way too. dance dance

Alan S citroen_ whip
 
Six of one and half a dozen of the other really.

Probably easier to take it out top ways though with the bonnet pulled off (leave brackets on, just remove the bonnet hinge bolts). It is a good idea to remove the crank pulley, as it gives a couple of extra inches to play with, otherwise just disconnect all the usual nuts, bolts and bits, pop a jack under the trans and raise it as high as possible (until the bellhousing touches the crossmember), then remove the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor and start raising the motor out, watch the fingers on the pressure plate catching the input shaft and it should lift out easily.

Also don't forget to replace the gearbox input shaft seal in the bellhousing (bellhousing must be removed from trans to replace it) otherwise it is bound to start leaking when it is all back together.
 
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