Koleos 2 Tyre thread.

[Fordman]

I have just replaced the 4 tyres on my 2019 Koleos 2WD petrol. Spec tyre size is 225/60/R18 100H. Odometer is on 38500kms.
The original tyres were Nexen N'Priz RH7, which actually weren't too bad, fairly unobtrustive in noise and comfort, but in the last few weeks, with a bit of rain, I was reminded that front wheel spin on normal acceleration was a bit too easy to induce on wet road. It didn't give me much confidence for highway driving on wet roads, which I had to do a few weeks ago, much as I hate to replace tyres with plenty of life left in them. I don't really know if the wheel spin is normal for a front wheel drive, I just feel it comes on too easily.
After a fair bit of research, with my main parameters being wet grip with comfortable ride, but trying not to pay a ridiculous price, I have gone for Goodyear Efficient Grip SUV, which Bob Janes have at $247 each (RRP about $358). I was a bit shocked at the price of most of the reputable tyres for this 18" wheel were between $300 - $400 each. The Goodyears rate pretty well for wet grip and comfort, but you never know until you try them yourself.
First impressions are they are quiet and smooth, but I will update this thread when I form more of an opinion.
I will be a bit cheesed off if I still get wheel spin on takeoff on wet roads, might feel I've wasted $1000! But also, as I only bought this car at 30k kms, I have no idea of the history of the original tyres, and I am looking at some long distance driving later this year, so I'll be happier to know they haven't got any traumas in the past.
Cheers.

 

[Clicktracy]

Hello Fordman,
I’ve got a 2015 AWD petrol CVT (can be 2WD if desired) and I find it a pretty aggressive accelerator even with a moderate right foot.
So from a standing start on wet road, inertia is throwing weight rearward reducing traction on front wheels and so, even the best tyre will (probably) lose traction with enough power applied.
Under braking we have the opposite movement of weight and of course there is the added benefit of ABS & ESC
There will be differences in cornering between tyres in the wet (don’t forget ESC) and I can’t recommend one tyre over another here but in the end, I believe it comes down to modifying your driving style to the conditions.
Cheers.

 

[Kim Luck]

I have just replaced the 4 tyres on my 2019 Koleos 2WD petrol. Spec tyre size is 225/60/R18 100H. Odometer is on 38500kms.
The original tyres were Nexen N'Priz RH7, which actually weren't too bad, fairly unobtrustive in noise and comfort, but in the last few weeks, with a bit of rain, I was reminded that front wheel spin on normal acceleration was a bit too easy to induce on wet road. It didn't give me much confidence for highway driving on wet roads, which I had to do a few weeks ago, much as I hate to replace tyres with plenty of life left in them. I don't really know if the wheel spin is normal for a front wheel drive, I just feel it comes on too easily.
After a fair bit of research, with my main parameters being wet grip with comfortable ride, but trying not to pay a ridiculous price, I have gone for Goodyear Efficient Grip SUV, which Bob Janes have at $247 each (RRP about $358). I was a bit shocked at the price of most of the reputable tyres for this 18" wheel were between $300 - $400 each. The Goodyears rate pretty well for wet grip and comfort, but you never know until you try them yourself.
First impressions are they are quiet and smooth, but I will update this thread when I form more of an opinion.
I will be a bit cheesed off if I still get wheel spin on takeoff on wet roads, might feel I've wasted $1000! But also, as I only bought this car at 30k kms, I have no idea of the history of the original tyres, and I am looking at some long distance driving later this year, so I'll be happier to know they haven't got any traumas in the past.
Cheers.

FWD and a bit of horsepower still catches people out. Understeer in the wet is a FWD given, but it can be mitigated by relearning throttle control and altering tyre pressures to get some trailing throttle oversteer. Even the best tyres will slip with FWD full throttle and under normal circumstances the ESP and/or traction control should prevent anything silly from happening. After familiarisation drivers can pretty well judge where the electronics will cut in so they drive to the limits of adhesion without needing the electronic intervention.

 

[Whippet]

I have gone for Goodyear Efficient Grip SUV, which Bob Janes have at $247 each (RRP about $358). I was a bit shocked at the price of most of the reputable tyres for this 18" wheel were between $300 - $400 each. The Goodyears rate pretty well for wet grip and comfort, but you never know until you try them yourself.
First impressions are they are quiet and smooth, but I will update this thread when I form more of an opinion.

Hi Fordman.

I have posted on another thread, that I did the very same thing for similar reasons.

On a diesel RAV4 that had Yokohama Geolanders, that would easily squeal going around corners, at replacement time I fitted GY Efficient Grip SUV as suggested by 4CVG. When they were released back in 2012 they often received good reviews in tyre tests. The RAV4 is still in our family and these tyres are still going strong. I liked driving on these and found them responsive, quite and good grip.

I have ordered a set of GY Efficient Grip (non SUV) for our Peugeot 2008, that have now arrived into port. Will have them fitted in a couple of weeks time. 205-50-R17 89 @ $180.

I always struggle comparing tyres as without testing facilities about all we can do is to observe and make subjective comments.

Cheers.

 

[jo proffi]

FWD and a bit of horsepower still catches people out. Understeer in the wet is a FWD given, but it can be mitigated by relearning throttle control and altering tyre pressures to get some trailing throttle oversteer. Even the best tyres will slip with FWD full throttle and under normal circumstances the ESP and/or traction control should prevent anything silly from happening. After familiarisation drivers can pretty well judge where the electronics will cut in so they drive to the limits of adhesion without needing the electronic intervention.

tell me your koleos lets you do lift off oversteer without throwing a tantrum!

 

[Kim Luck]

tell me your koleos lets you do lift off oversteer without throwing a tantrum!

Releasing throttle pressure at the appropriate point simply allows the car to tighten up the corner by removing it's understeer tendency. The only time ESP kicks in is when it thinks you have lost it and the car is rotating faster than you are moving the steering wheel!
P.S: You can turn ESP off!

 

[Fordman]

I looked at my first post and realised I wrote this:
"I don't really know if the wheel spin is normal for a front wheel drive, I just feel it comes on too easily."
Of course, I am well aware of the physics of weight transfer and the effect of acceleration with a front drive car. What I meant was that I felt this car with the Nexen tyres may have less than normal traction, so I am doing something about it.
If the Goodyears still lose traction in similar conditions I will be surprised and disappointed.

 

[schlitzaugen]

Wow. That is quite remarkable. What Koleos was this? I mean what engine/g'box?

Mine (gen 1, diesel auto) would probably have to be on snow and uphill to spin the wheels. Either that or your tyres were really bad.

How do you turn the traction control off, Kim? Just curious. I never felt mine engaging, didn't even know you could turn it on and off (unless you're talking about the button on the dash, which I don't think turns it off completely). I think that button is more for snow/slippery conditions (say gravel/dirt/mud) than "normal" (sealed road) driving conditions.

 

[Fordman]

It's a Gen 2, 2.5 litre petrol, front wheel drive only, CVT auto trans.
So yes, it's not a powerhouse, and I think the tyres were not up to it, at least in wet conditions in straight line acceleration.
Time will tell.

 

[Haakon]

Its a top heavy floppy suv - of course its going to suck. Try driving a 2WD V6 kluger....

 

[Kim Luck]

Its a top heavy floppy suv - of course its going to suck. Try driving a 2WD V6 kluger....

You are still putting shite on modern equivalents of small station wagons, as is your wont. You would probably also call a London double decker bus top heavy in spite of the fact that they can, fully loaded, stay on their wheels when the body is inclined to over 35 degrees. It's called engineering! Your bias precedes you!

 

[Kim Luck]

Wow. That is quite remarkable. What Koleos was this? I mean what engine/g'box?

Mine (gen 1, diesel auto) would probably have to be on snow and uphill to spin the wheels. Either that or your tyres were really bad.

How do you turn the traction control off, Kim? Just curious. I never felt mine engaging, didn't even know you could turn it on and off (unless you're talking about the button on the dash, which I don't think turns it off completely). I think that button is more for snow/slippery conditions (say gravel/dirt/mud) than "normal" (sealed road) driving conditions.

The four switch panel under the air vent on the right has a switch to deactivate the ESP. It is listed as #15 in your owner's manual 1.41.
I don't recommend turning it off if you are in a hurry on unfamiliar dirt roads........

 

[schlitzaugen]

Yeah, the bus can stand still tilted at 35deg but it would tip over at that angle if you tried to drive it.

Thanks, Kim. Now I remember that switch. Do you think it completely deactivates the ESP?

 

[Kim Luck]

Yeah, the bus can stand still tilted at 35deg but it would tip over at that angle if you tried to drive it.

Thanks, Kim. Now I remember that switch. Do you think it completely deactivates the ESP?

That's not correct, Schlitzy! It could sustain that angle if on a perfectly flat surface, something that doesn't exist in real life! As far as Koleos ESP activation is concerned, yes, the switch does turn it off which is why I added a caution! You won't see the sexy yellow triangle and exclamation mark if you overcook a corner!

 

[jaahn]

You are still putting shite on modern equivalents of small station wagons, as is your wont. You would probably also call a London double decker bus top heavy in spite of the fact that they can, fully loaded, stay on their wheels when the body is inclined to over 35 degrees. It's called engineering! Your bias precedes you!

View attachment 205031

Hi , Years ago I worked with a guy who grew up in Hong Kong and they used British busses there at the time. He was a mechanic and worked on a lot of things. He always quoted this stability test of the busses as it was important in their hilly areas.
However he claimed that they had half a ton of cement under them to achieve this stability and that was why they were so bloody slow. Combined also with the underpowered pommy diesels of the day and low gearing !!
Jaahn

 

[Kim Luck]

Hi , Years ago I worked with a guy who grew up in Hong Kong and they used British busses there at the time. He was a mechanic and worked on a lot of things. He always quoted this stability test of the busses as it was important in their hilly areas.
However he claimed that they had half a ton of cement under them to achieve this stability and that was why they were so bloody slow. Combined also with the underpowered pommy diesels of the day and low gearing !!
Jaahn

If you ever looked closely at British heavy truck and bus chassis of the thirties through the sixties you would realise pretty quickly that the addition of further ballast would be more than luxury! Also, anything powered by a Leyland 0.600 9.8 litre diesel:

• Output 125 hp at 1800 rpm
• Torque 410 ft.lbs at 900 rpm

just had to have sparkling performance, particularly when combined with a Wilson Pre-selector gearbox and double reduction rear axle!

 

[Fordman]

I have just replaced the 4 tyres on my 2019 Koleos 2WD petrol. Spec tyre size is 225/60/R18 100H. Odometer is on 38500kms.
The original tyres were Nexen N'Priz RH7, which actually weren't too bad, fairly unobtrustive in noise and comfort, but in the last few weeks, with a bit of rain, I was reminded that front wheel spin on normal acceleration was a bit too easy to induce on wet road. It didn't give me much confidence for highway driving on wet roads, which I had to do a few weeks ago, much as I hate to replace tyres with plenty of life left in them. I don't really know if the wheel spin is normal for a front wheel drive, I just feel it comes on too easily.
After a fair bit of research, with my main parameters being wet grip with comfortable ride, but trying not to pay a ridiculous price, I have gone for Goodyear Efficient Grip SUV, which Bob Janes have at $247 each (RRP about $358). I was a bit shocked at the price of most of the reputable tyres for this 18" wheel were between $300 - $400 each. The Goodyears rate pretty well for wet grip and comfort, but you never know until you try them yourself.
First impressions are they are quiet and smooth, but I will update this thread when I form more of an opinion.
I will be a bit cheesed off if I still get wheel spin on takeoff on wet roads, might feel I've wasted $1000! But also, as I only bought this car at 30k kms, I have no idea of the history of the original tyres, and I am looking at some long distance driving later this year, so I'll be happier to know they haven't got any traumas in the past.
Cheers.

Just updating here. First impressions of the Goodyear EG SUV are very good. Certainly a quiet tyre - no tyre noise at all so far. I believe I can feel the road surface transmitting through the tyres a bit, but also thinking that slight vibration may be in the CVT transmission, as it seems to disappear when I take the throttle off - still coming to a conclusion with that. Not uncomfortable, and no worse than previous.
As far as wet grip goes - and that was the main reason to replace the Nexens - we haven't had too much rain here in the last couple of months, but on the times I have driven in the rain, I have deliberately tried to break traction on front wheels by harder than normal acceleration on a wet patch, and so far - no wheelspin at all. Again, not 100% tested as yet, but I'm pretty sure the previous tyres would have broken free in similar conditions.
I've actually stayed inside today because it has been raining - writing this makes me think I could get the Koleos out and go for a drive - nah - time will tell.
Cheers.

 

[4cvgordini]

Thanks for the report.
The most dramatic difference between crap or crappish tyres & premium ones is wet grip. Mind you, some seemingly in the former group are not dire & some particular models from premium brands are decidedly dirish. Best guidance available remains a close read of what's available from a spread of magazine tests.

 

[Kim Luck]

I should tell Fordman that if my tyres on the early Koleos 4X4 needed replacing at 38,500 Km I would have a fit! Something is wrong, either the tyres that were fitted are shit, the wheel alignment is wrong, or your tyre pressures are out. My turbo diesel auto burns off most others at the lights (regularly) and still gives me 65,000+km before the tyres get anywhere near the tell-tale wear strips. I'm only on my third set of Hankook Dynapro HP2 M+S since 135,000 km, a wheel re-alignment every year and handbook tyre pressures does wonders, I'm sure. Wet grip, dry grip, tarmac and dirt the Hankooks are bloody good. I drive in snow every winter following windy roads to get there and back, have had mud so deep it's been rubbing on the floor but the tyres work as advertised. 7.7l/100km on a country trip and they last!

 

[Fordman]

Kim, it really made me bleed to replace the tyres at 38500 KMs. They were not worn out and would probably have done 60k. The alignment is within spec range, but slight wear from, I think, toe-in, as discussed in another thread. The spec is a wide range IMO and it is my normal practice to reduce alignment wear to a minimum so I will be altering it as required (within the spec range).
I am also someone who can accept a good average tyre and drive accordingly, but when I had several front wheelspin incidents on wet road, the Nexens frightened me for that reason alone.
I found it a bit odd that some comments were that I could modify my driving to allow for that, when usually people are saying that one should pay for the best tyres available in case of emergency situations. Take it from me, those tyres had become very poor in the wet, to the point that I did not trust them at all.
I did research quite a lot of tyre types and reviews, including your Hankook recommendations, and when one of my short listed tyres came on special with $100 each discount, I went for the Goodyears.
I hope they continue to perform well for a long time.
.
BTW another factor in replacing what we're otherwise decent tyres, was that it was an ex-rental with 30k KMs, who knows what their history was.
Believe me, as a confirmed tightwad, the tyres had to be pretty bad for me to put my hands a fair way into my pockets.