is the timing belt service a diy able job - RHR engine

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dcc236

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Is the timing belt service a diy able job - RHR engine? Or should I just pay an expert to do it?

I'm ok mechanically but have never done a timing belt service on my own. Do I need any special tools? 2009 407 auto 2L hdi.
 
You don’t need tools if you have a rattle gun for the crank bolt and just mark everything with liquid paper belt to pulley to engine


4008
Gone but not forgotten C5 x7 3008 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
But then you normally do water pump, pulleys etc as well
 
I have to admit I found the RHR cambelt in a 308 a right pain in the r's. It might be different in a larger 407, but the access is really tight in a 308. There was no way in heck I could see the pointer on the tensioner without using a phone cam, and the limited access to the tensioner bolts meant I had to buy a long handle 13mm ring spanner just to get to that one bolt.

The other issue was that I couldn't pin the flywheel even with the full fitting kit. I believe an aftermarket flywheel didn't have the pin hole in exactly the same position so I had to do it without pinning the flywheel.

I also had to apply quite a bit of heat to the crank bolt as the blue loktite used by the factory wouldn't move without heat - I was using a rattle gun as well.

The crank angle sensor wiring round the back of the head was a pain to remove as well.

I've done plenty of cam belts in the past but really found the RHR in a 308 a challenge requiring a few special tools. You might not need the special tools in a 407 if you have extra space to work but I would say as a first timing belt you'll need to put aside plenty of time to work on it.

Best thing about the RHR is that it only has one cam belt pulley, as the cams are driven off each other by a separate chain behind the cam belt cover - so you only wrap the cam belt around one cam pulley.

Cheers

Justin
 
dcc236 said:
Is the timing belt service a diy able job - RHR engine? Or should I just pay an expert to do it?

I'm ok mechanically but have never done a timing belt service on my own. Do I need any special tools? 2009 407 auto 2L hdi.
Click to expand...


I'd skip the stress and take it to my Master Pug mechanic on the Gold Coast (Pimpama, to be correct).

Wayne Botha, master South African Pug trained. Now in private practice and the go-to man for a few Peugeot dealerships.

Much recommended.

Ph: 0413 942 026

Wayne has been looking after The French Tart for seven years now. Not one issue. Say hello to Wayne, from The French Tart. He'll know its me.

Get the water pump replaced and the thermostat checked. Coolant flush a bonus. Wayne doesn't mind if you buy your own parts either.
 
207cc Sport said:
Wayne doesn't mind if you buy your own parts either.
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Never supply your own parts. If something goes wrong after repair, the argument now begins.

If your part was faulty, he won't be paying for labour to replace

Combinations of issues are endless

Let Wayne do whole job ---- No issue
 
I agree with Justin, I did my 307 last Friday as I had no idea of its history, and when started as a simple job became a thorough misery, first the cabling had become caught in the top cover and was unseen by me and caused it to take way too long to remove it. Pinning the cam sprocket was easy, I used a drill bit, which of course I regret now as the back of my hand bears the marks of it, A simpler and shorter bit of rod would be better. I took the risk of not lacking the flywheel as I deemed that to be a rather difficult job, in that respect I got away with it but I have a fantastic electric rattle gun that is way way better than the budget air ones that most of us are familiar with. I just did the timing belt as I wanted to quickly gain peace of mind but I noted there has been slight seepage from the water pump but since the deposits were dry I think it can wait a bit longer but it's something all owners should consider doing, also I think I'll replace the idler pulley soon enough too but as to tension, well I just tightened a bit and hoped, since I couldn't see it. I found fitting the new belt was a tight pain in the arse job, a real lack of room was punishing, I would fit the top of the belt on and get under to try and get the bottom on which of course would then cause the top to fall off, causing my weary body to struggle with getting up and down for a while before the light bulb in my head lit up and I used a clamp to hold the top.

Anyway the job eventually was done followed by a couple of days of painful recovery by my legs that had done more work rising and falling than for years, I became glad that I was a boy as the worst of it was finding a way of accessing the lavatory seat, without a handle to lower oneself it became a lesson in pain control.

Sometime later I'll revisit this job and do it fancier style with new pulleys and waterpump, if I can retain some of my health.
 
O dear Jimby that's a horrible story about a timing belt. I don't have that amount of problems as home back yard mechanic.
I did however strike a weird problem last 307 I did with the aux belt. Turned out it had no tension adjusters from standard and had to be shoe horned on. Finally I found the right way was rotating the engine anti clockwise to roll it on. Crazy theory.
 
luthier said:
O dear Jimby that's a horrible story about a timing belt. I don't have that amount of problems as home back yard mechanic.
I did however strike a weird problem last 307 I did with the aux belt. Turned out it had no tension adjusters from standard and had to be shoe horned on. Finally I found the right way was rotating the engine anti clockwise to roll it on. Crazy theory.
Click to expand...

504 Ti doesn't have any way of tensioning the alternator belt either.
 
By the way I always get the crank pulley bolt undone by fitting a socket with a long bar, resting on the ground, and then flick the starter. Blue loctite isn't in the race. Never had any problems doing this on many cars. The only time I don't do this is when the crank pulley is in two parts with an easily removable outer part, which I think was on the S16 306. In that case it is counter productive to remove the large central bolt.
 
luthier said:
By the way I always get the crank pulley bolt undone by fitting a socket with a long bar, resting on the ground, and then flick the starter. Blue loctite isn't in the race. Never had any problems doing this on many cars. The only time I don't do this is when the crank pulley is in two parts with an easily removable outer part, which I think was on the S16 306. In that case it is counter productive to remove the large central bolt.
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You are very likely to break a tooth from starter motor, worse still the flywheel teeth :(
 
I’m pretty sure Peugeot recommend locking the flywheel ring gear when removing 504 crank pulley nuts.
 
Frought with problems as many have found out doing this on many engines

A rattle gun is always the best answer

In regards to timing belts, when room is lacking just spend and hour or so and take the engine out, it's so much easier
 
Uh oh. The religious war might be starting again!

BTW, a nitpick Graham: you could tension the alternator belt ok on the TI, it was the separate water pump belt that had no adjustment.

Have fun,

Rob.
 
driven said:
You are very likely to break a tooth from starter motor, worse still the flywheel teeth :(
Click to expand...

Who told you that? It's nonsense. It just doesn't happen dude.

You can lead a horse to water............................
 
luthier said:
By the way I always get the crank pulley bolt undone by fitting a socket with a long bar, resting on the ground, and then flick the starter.
Click to expand...

Yes me too, it's always worked splendidly but the lovely mains powered rattle gun I bought some time ago has superseded my old method very nicely, also it's much better for tightening the crank bolt again especially when dealing with an automatic transmission.
 
driven said:
Never supply your own parts. If something goes wrong after repair, the argument now begins.

If your part was faulty, he won't be paying for labour to replace

Combinations of issues are endless

Let Wayne do whole job ---- No issue
Click to expand...


Not if you DON'T know what you're doing.

My cam chain (full) kit $500. Peugeot $1,000
Turbo $560. Peugeot $1,200
Bosch brake rotors (rear) $470. Peugeot $870.

The list goes on and on.

Do you research well, and save a-da-money . . .

ps: Wayne recommended a turbo from Malaysia, build. Said that Puig dealerships use it too.

What does this NOT surprise me?
 
Luthier, there are actually 'stretch belts' on some later cars. They are in fact shoehorned on; there's a special ramp shaped tool that goes on the pulley to help ease it on. I'm not sure whether the later 307's used them though.
 
Or the 'other' method of put in it first gear, hand brake on and have an audience member have two feet firmly on the pedal.
My Dear Old Mum was a great helper in my, her, younger days! If not the younger siblings...child labour AKA Dad telling us what to do,
:cheers: Brendan.
 
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