Installing the Distributor Gear on an 807

[COL]

That looks good to me, that is what I try to aim for, sometimes not as close but you are limited by teeth pitch and what ever slackness is in the chain.

Yes as far as I know that will be TDC firing like you have in the first photo of post #1.

 

[Bernie]

HI:
Thanks
Bernie

 

[COL]

Adjusting Cam Timing Without Timing Marks

This Hillman Imp Cam Timing video came up on my YouTube feed. You don't need timing marks or a degree wheel, just a $50 dial gauge.

My only criticism of this procedure i the way that TDC is found, otherwise very informative.

 

[Whippet]

Adjusting Cam Timing Without Timing Marks

This Hillman Imp Cam Timing video came up on my YouTube feed. You don't need timing marks or a degree wheel, just a $50 dial gauge.

My only criticism of this procedure i the way that TDC is found, otherwise very informative.

Hi.

An interesting video. I had never seen a fluid used to determine TDC, but it seemed to work OK, as you could see the fluid change for a relatively small crankshaft movement.

I used to use a spark plug body (with the core removed) and a rod with a ball end machined, brazed into the threaded section. When screwed into the sparkplug hole, the rod/ball projected below the cylinder block level. Very carefully and slowly I would turn the crankshaft CW, until the piston touched and was stopped by the projecting rod/ball. Then mark the crankshaft pulley with paint, adjacent to the TDC mark on the timing cover. Then rotate the crankshaft CCW, until piston was stopped by the rod/ball. Then mark crankshaft pulley with paint adjacent to TDC mark. The true TDC was midway between the two paint marks.

I used to consider this more accurate and "certain" as it stopped the piston in the bore at the same crank angle away from TDC in both CW and CCW rotations where the piston movement was large relative to the crankshaft rotation. As opposed to very small piston movement relative to crankshaft rotation around the TDC zone.

The other advantage is that you didn't need dial indicator gauges.

But you needed to be sure that the rod/ball on the end of the spark plug would not foul on an opening valve.

Also be sure not to forget to remove the rod/ball after TDC had been established.

Cheers.

 

[COL]

Hi.

An interesting video. I had never seen a fluid used to determine TDC, but it seemed to work OK, as you could see the fluid change for a relatively small crankshaft movement.

I used to use a spark plug body (with the core removed) and a rod with a ball end machined, brazed into the threaded section. When screwed into the sparkplug hole, the rod/ball projected below the cylinder block level. Very carefully and slowly I would turn the crankshaft CW, until the piston touched and was stopped by the projecting rod/ball. Then mark the crankshaft pulley with paint, adjacent to the TDC mark on the timing cover. Then rotate the crankshaft CCW, until piston was stopped by the rod/ball. Then mark crankshaft pulley with paint adjacent to TDC mark. The true TDC was midway between the two paint marks.

I used to consider this more accurate and "certain" as it stopped the piston in the bore at the same crank angle away from TDC in both CW and CCW rotations where the piston movement was large relative to the crankshaft rotation. As opposed to very small piston movement relative to crankshaft rotation around the TDC zone.

The other advantage is that you didn't need dial indicator gauges.

But you needed to be sure that the rod/ball on the end of the spark plug would not foul on an opening valve.

Also be sure not to forget to remove the rod/ball after TDC had been established.

Cheers.

This is my preferred method of finding TDC. I use a degree wheel with this method. I find it the most accurate way to find TDC.

 

[dacia4x4]

Hi.

An interesting video. I had never seen a fluid used to determine TDC, but it seemed to work OK, as you could see the fluid change for a relatively small crankshaft movement.

I used to use a spark plug body (with the core removed) and a rod with a ball end machined, brazed into the threaded section. When screwed into the sparkplug hole, the rod/ball projected below the cylinder block level. Very carefully and slowly I would turn the crankshaft CW, until the piston touched and was stopped by the projecting rod/ball. Then mark the crankshaft pulley with paint, adjacent to the TDC mark on the timing cover. Then rotate the crankshaft CCW, until piston was stopped by the rod/ball. Then mark crankshaft pulley with paint adjacent to TDC mark. The true TDC was midway between the two paint marks.

I used to consider this more accurate and "certain" as it stopped the piston in the bore at the same crank angle away from TDC in both CW and CCW rotations where the piston movement was large relative to the crankshaft rotation. As opposed to very small piston movement relative to crankshaft rotation around the TDC zone.

The other advantage is that you didn't need dial indicator gauges.

But you needed to be sure that the rod/ball on the end of the spark plug would not foul on an opening valve.

Also be sure not to forget to remove the rod/ball after TDC had been established.

Cheers.

Seems like a positive way to find tdc,only thing I would be wary of timing chain and tensioner condition as some manufacturers recommend not to turn engine anti clockwise,especially if chain is worn and/or tensioner foot protruding from tensioner housing excessively.but I guess with mr.whippets experience shouldn’t be a problem…jim