Ignition Switch

Jensen

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Sep 8, 2001
Messages
513
Location
Melbourne
My Ignition switch died today in the R10, no longer have power to indicators, stereo etc but will still start the motor but not turn off. I pulled the switch out and the plastic piece with the terminals has all perished and the terminals are loose etc. I was at work so tried to match it up with R12 switch but they are different, supposely the late 10 switch is also same as R16? are they the same as anything else?

So now im looking for a late R10 or R16 ignition switch ( actually only need the plastic bit with the terminals at the back, any one got any lying around, in dead car etc they want to sell?? If not can i install a regular switch somewhere for the ignition and just use the key to start it?

Cheers

Jensen
 
Give Jim Coleborne a call on 02 6297 1714 or em him at jamescoleborne@hotmail.com . Jim may well have several at a reasonable price.

You do see 10's and 8's where the switch has been bypassed so it can't be that hard. The ones I've seen have been set up so the key works the ignition circuit while a button has been fitted to operate the starter.


Hope this helps. :dance:
 
Last edited:
Thanks Bogmaster,

I sent him an email. Im in Melbourne so would be excellent if someone here has one spare?

Would you believe Bogmaster, i stripped a R10 2 months ago of nearly everything but not knowing that u cant get ignition switches anymore and that they do pack up, i didnt take it off before it got cubed! It also had a push button starter! I swear since i put the new hot 1.4 in nothing has gone right! alt, battery, condensor, ignition switch have all died and then i had to lose it going over a bridge and bend a wishbone and throw the steering out! 195/R15 are deadly in the wet!

Jensen
 
Ken cant get one? He must be slipping.... :D I'm not sure when I will going up to my parents again (might be a couple of weeks away) but I'm fairly sure I have a good one there.

Bad luck re. the wishbone - were you playing a bit at the time? :D That rear engine can bite you if youre not careful, but thats a small price (well sometimes it can be a big price...) to pay for the shit load of fun they are to drive ;)
 
Yeah Haakon, no longer available,i was at work today and i pulled apart a R12 one but no go, fair bit different. If I cant get one soon then that would be good if you've got one.

yeah was on that really wet night last Thursday, had stop raining but still slippery, wasn't even goin that hard but once it went it didn't wanna come back like usual:blackeye: . Im back on the Pizza cutter 135's till i get the wide rims re rolled or something. I stuck a new wishbone on and it hasn't bent the chassis or anything so luckily not too bad, just annoying. Small price to pay for the fun of a 10.

Jensen
 
Ooops... Well at least you werent hurt, so thats the main thing. I got lucky when I did my big 360 in the wet (and kept going without stopping - yeah baby, thats how its done :dance: ) when I put a bit much boot in (60 bhp - feel the power :whip: ) going round a corner in the wet, in that the road was very wide and I missed everything while I was doing the twirly thing :whistle: :tongue:

I will let you know when I head up next and see if you still want it, or if you get desparate, let me know and I can get my dad to check it out ;)
 
hehe

Funny you should say that Jensen, cause I had a bit of a incident in the R8 the other day, the o'le 135's don't stick real good.

Not that it's no suprise.
 
BogMaster said:
Give Jim Coleborne a call on 02 6297 1714 or em him at jamescoleborne@hotmail.com . Jim may well have several at a reasonable price.

You do see 10's and 8's where the switch has been bypassed so it can't be that hard. The ones I've seen have been set up so the key works the ignition circuit while a button has been fitted to operate the starter.


Hope this helps. :dance:
So the key by-pass is a common mod??....it was done for failed ignition barrels? Interesting, the one I have has this also....will have to suss it out when i finally get the poor thing going.......trying again for the FCD in Brisbane..... :roflmao: :roflmao: have tried for years to do this...life just gets in da way :whip:
 
Still looking for the R10/R16 switch but in the meantime i took the lock out and put a normal sort of switch in, that i can turn on then sort of hot wire it to start the motor. Not ideal but least i have indicators now!

For some reason this does not kill the motor though when i turn the switch off, i gotta stall it to turn it off. Which wire cuts power to the motor( coil?). All last week while the switch was on its way out it wouldn't turn off, could this be a seperate problem?

cheers

jensen
 
Jensen said:
Still looking for the R10/R16 switch but in the meantime i took the lock out and put a normal sort of switch in, that i can turn on then sort of hot wire it to start the motor. Not ideal but least i have indicators now!

For some reason this does not kill the motor though when i turn the switch off, i gotta stall it to turn it off. Which wire cuts power to the motor( coil?). All last week while the switch was on its way out it wouldn't turn off, could this be a seperate problem?

cheers

jensen

Jensen,

These switches are listed as available new on Mecaparts website in France. I bought one for my R8 a couple of years ago - it wasn't particularly expensive and took about 10 minutes to fit. If you have ANY worry about the old switch, get it out before the locking mechanism fails, as it is very hard if the brass locking peg is out (have to drill the centre of the switch out!).

It really is an easy job and Mecaparts are very reliable suppliers.

JohnW
 
Amen to that.
Getting any of the Neimann type switches out if they are completely stuffed is a real pain.
The barrel needs to be functional for the peg to pop down properly and the whole lot to slide up and out. If everything is functional this is a piece of p*ss ...if it's not then like John says you end up attacking it with a drill...not an easy job.

:cheers:
 
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