ID19 Engine and gearbox for sale

Unfortunily some of the shims on the big engs have already being removed by myself some 30 years ago , what I lacked was the skill to scrape the white metal nice and smooth and circular and I am sure that I ended up with and oval shaped big end bearing , hence the low oil pressure . Have being anoyed with myself for decades about doing such crap job.
I have being casting about trying to find and engine rebuilder who has the skills to do the job , but they all seem to have retired and their tools vanished , so I thought newer rods and replaceable slippers might be best solution.
 
Measure your crank main journals and order the appropriate undersize bearings from CTA or CSA websites. They provided remetalled bronze shells in a range of undersizes as well as the standard size.
 
Trading Estate said:
Sounds like a good prospect for a 4 speed upgrade in a traction anda reasonable price . Plenty have been done . There was kit that the TOC in the uk used to sell. Not sure what is available now. Bobsie has one in one of his cars.
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I have purchased the motor and box and are now thinking about useing the 4 speed box and would like to understand how to do it , how do you attach TA drive shafts to the ID box etc .
I have not heard of TOC , Can you steer me to the kit that TOC in the uk used to sell .
 
jhovel said:
I have all the construction details for the conversion and they can go with the engine and gearbox, of course. With a lathe and some ingenuity and skills it is not a very difficult upgrade.
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Every thing arrived and unloaded , could you please forward the details of the 4 speed conversion , not sure which way to go at the moment and any information on the work needed would be greatly appricated
 
TOC is the Traction Owners Club of the UK. It is not a business. I started on a conversion years ago and did not proceed with it as I value the car more in its original state.
The ID crown wheel has to be bushed to accept a traction output shaft. The output housings of the ID box need to be machined at the level of its mounting flange to reduce the width and to accept an after-market oil seal for the traction output flange. Then there are various numbers of solutions for making a forward engine mount, getting the gearchange to operate, etc etc. It all became too much trouble for me. So I built the car the way it should be!
 
Rally said:
Every thing arrived and unloaded , could you please forward the details of the 4 speed conversion , not sure which way to go at the moment and any information on the work needed would be greatly appricated
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I'm pretty sure Mel Carey used to sell a linkage/conversion kit. I'm sure there is details on it if you search the CCOCA archives. I'm assuming you want to use the ID19 motor and gearbox.
 
I agree with you Gerry.
When I purchased my first Traction 45 years ago I was told by all the "experts" that I needed to convert it to a 4 speed as with the 3 speed they were "undrivable".
However I went against their advice and retained the 3 speed box.
When I went on "Tracbar" back in 1998 about a dozen cars (out of 40) had 4 speed boxes and at least half of them had problems with the conversion.
So in my humble opinion it is best to leave them with their original 3 speed box.
Brian W
'40 Light 15
'51 11BL
'62 ID19
'73 GS
'21 C3
 
Hi Brian! If the three-speed is built properly using the knowledge gained over the years concerning stabilisation of the pinion shaft they are a robust design!
 
Rally said:
Would any one know what is involved in fitting this type of block in a Lt 15 with the origional gear box and cylinder head .
My Lt 15 has very low oil pressure and I quite like the idea of putting a " modern " 5 main bearing block in her as long as she still looks origional .
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I did it. As others have mentioned you can install the T/A head on the ID block as long as you change the pushrods and, IIRC the oil feed to the head. The clutch is another problem. I used the ID flywheel cut down slightly to clear the T/A clutch housing. This allowed me to use an ID clutch cover. I had to use a special motorcycle bearing (eBay) for the clutch pilot as the ID transmission input shaft has a different pilot diameter than the T/A. Other than that, the swap was pretty straightforward ( at least until I went off the rails with an external full flow oil filter). Happy to provide more details if you decide to go that route. Changing to the ID transmission involves a lot of modifications since the T/A shift rods basically occupy the same space as the ID carburetter and the transmission output shafts don't match up to the T/A driveshafts..
 
The biggest issue with the 3 speed box is that it will flex and damage the diff gears. This had happened to my B11N (not in my hands) to the extend that the pinion no longer engaged with the crown wheel.
There is an external brace and plate that can stiffen the gearbox housing. So I think changing over to 4 speed is a better overall option than modifying a poor design.
 
jhovel said:
The biggest issue with the 3 speed box is that it will flex and damage the diff gears. This had happened to my B11N (not in my hands) to the extend that the pinion no longer engaged with the crown wheel.
There is an external brace and plate that can stiffen the gearbox housing. So I think changing over to 4 speed is a better overall option than modifying a poor design.
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I think it is more likely that your disengaged pinion was caused by the infamous pinion nut lock washer failing, rather than flexing of the case (which would lead to a cracked case, not a loose pinion shaft). In any event, I believe adding a "Jack Weaver" plate to reinforce the T/A transmission is a lot less involved (and less expensive) than modifying the output shafts of a 4-speed gearbox to take the drive flanges for the T/A.
 
jhovel said:
The biggest issue with the 3 speed box is that it will flex and damage the diff gears. This had happened to my B11N (not in my hands) to the extend that the pinion no longer engaged with the crown wheel.
There is an external brace and plate that can stiffen the gearbox housing. So I think changing over to 4 speed is a better overall option than modifying a poor design.
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It will only flex and break the gear casing if the pinion gets out of position because of a loose pinion nut. This loosening is caused by compression of the multi-tab lock washer and consequent erosion of the half-locking washers. When this happens the pinion shaft can change position. In an out-of-position situation, the teeth of the pinion become highly loaded at a single point. Erosion of the case hardening of the pinion teeth occurs leading to eventual breaking of a tooth. The tooth gets jammed between the pinion and the crown wheel and catastrophic failure of the casing or the carrier straps occurs.
Please let's not hear any more rubbish about weak TA boxes. It is all preventable as a strong box is the result of good preparation and use of modern thread locking compounds. There have been a number of threads on this very subject! Please read them!
 
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