I Bought a 206 GTi 180 (2004)

I think I said previously: clean the throttle and the three sensors attached to the throttle. Also clean the EGR. It seemed to turn my GTI from a dog on start up to a clean idling machine. I also wait for the oil indicator to change back to the odometer before starting the car first thing in the morning.
 
I suppose this is a good place to ask something I've been thinking about...hope you don't mind Anzac...

Early days in your ownership I know, but what difference does the rear suspension make between the standard GTi and the 180? Is it really noticeable?
Well just generally all around they are stiffer, the suspension is amazing compared to the stand GTi.
Turning into some driveways or when you happen to find a place where youre driving through a strange angled dip/drain you will feel the back of the car lift off of the ground.

Road holding is much better, much less body roll. Really this has a lot to do with the front suspension, but the rear still helps obviously.

The only way to describe it is to say the stock suspension on the 180 is closer to being a full race type than it is to being a standard suspension type. Its like Peugeot went 40% comfort and 60% race.

Any stiffer and I dont think I would enjoy it as a daily drive.

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Years of practice, and shared knowledge. It was raised often when 180's were relatively new, and everyone who used that prime, start, wait method of starting a 180 found their cold start and driving improved.

The alternative of cold start and drive immediately almost invariably results in spluttering and hesitation for the first 500m or so.
Yeah if Im in a rush, I will go very easy on the engine, or it will hesitate and drop in power strangely for the first few hindred metres.
It wants a minute or so to warm to operating temperature I find.

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I think I said previously: clean the throttle and the three sensors attached to the throttle. Also clean the EGR. It seemed to turn my GTI from a dog on start up to a clean idling machine. I also wait for the oil indicator to change back to the odometer before starting the car first thing in the morning.
Is that the 138? I think the 180 doesnt have the EGR system. Though Im pretty sure they do have the bypass that takes fresh air and mixes it with exhaust so the cat will work more effectively when cold.
On my 138 I blocked off the EGR and fully cleaned the inside of the intake manifold and ports. Now that was so noticeable! Much smoother at low rpm through to mid range. But I dont know if it was just from cleaning everything or from deleting the EGR.

This always happens, I do 2 things that fixes something and I end up not knowing what was wrong in the first place haha



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Mine also runs like a pig for about a minute until warmed up.. Are they all like that? Does anyone have one that starts and goes smoothly from cold?
I am starting to think: NO

Whats worse is my 138 had some bad starting issues too. But at least on that I figured it out

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You can see most of the mods in my sig. It's just had another round of mods, which I'll update when it actually runs in a couple of weeks, but basically ITB's, full wiring loom, cage.

I would recommend the vibra technics or BBM mounts. There's really no point in mucking around yourself with such items. Pug1Off have been good so far in my experience.
Things to note though. I've got the solid race version. They transmit substantial vibration from the engine into the cabin. Unpleasant for a road car.
The upper RHS mount is prone to failure. I replaced 2x oem mounts before going to the Vibra mounts. After a couple more track days, the actual body metal where the mount attaches had torn itself free. I've now re-inforced that body area with 5mm steel bar.
You said it! The OEM mounts are terrible.
Thats why Im not liking the look of the BBM ones as much, still the same design.

And now that youve said that metal broke on the RHS mount I think Im going to have to modify it preemptively, its just a thin sheet with one square nut to hold it down... [emoji58]

Really I think the buffers could be bigger, as in right up against the mount/around the mount, and just bigger. Im trying to plan a project to make an add on that fills in those voids or replaces the buffers by making an OEM fit into it. Maybe I could sell them online!?

The Clip Sport my housemate has, has a simple insert that works a treat! But its design is different otherwise Im sure there would be one for the 180 you could find too.

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Mine also runs like a pig for about a minute until warmed up.. Are they all like that? Does anyone have one that starts and goes smoothly from cold?

G;day,
yes, no. Easy answer. Why Don't know. Follow the procedure, it works. :pugplak:
 
I think I said previously: clean the throttle and the three sensors attached to the throttle. Also clean the EGR. It seemed to turn my GTI from a dog on start up to a clean idling machine. I also wait for the oil indicator to change back to the odometer before starting the car first thing in the morning.

Carried out the clean as suggested and the car now runs a lot better on cold start. Thanks for the tip dj4allen
 
Mine seems to be running better over time. Its still cold but it hasnt started strangely at all on any mornings. Of course I still sit for a little before driving and you still notice the cold engine then. But thw idle doesnt have the slight stutter anymore. Maybe the computer has gotten used to any changes Ive made/fuel types Im using/new battery/air filter type stuff, or maybe the LiquiMoly Gold really works?

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What are the symptoms of a partially clogged catalytic converter? Mine is working fine for the most part, doesnt throw codes, and the live data for both 02 sensors is normal, which im taking to mean the cat is doing the job its supposed to. But could it be a bit clogged and lead to bad start ups?

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It might be a bit clogged, but it's not super likely. If it's running fine except for cold start, it's more likely to be "just the way it is". As mentioned, every 180 I've seen is a bit crap at cold start for about a minute.
1522227085270.jpg yeah the cat is fine. No obstructions or anything like that (as well as working as far as the sensors are concerned).

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I recently cleaned the injectors (with a simple kit) and noticed that the engine ran slightly differently.
(I forward and reverse flushed them all under the pressure. I dont THINK any were leaking.)
Anyway so I bought a set of ASNU O.E.M. replacement injectors.
I waited for the car to get cold and pyt the new injectors in and.... still started poorly. However the next time I started it after it was cold, it fired up and idled fine.
So from that Im wondering if the old injector(s) were leaking overnight, enough to flood a cylinder a bit and make start up really rough.
However if I leave it for a long time, like 2 days, it will still be a little stuttery after start up. Definitely an improvement though.
Im wondering if the cheap spark plugs are a lot worse than the iridium ones.

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I also decided to set up a cat-delete 1522227617789.jpg which has given the Pug a nicer more free engine feel.
The mini-cat that I installed, or the fact that the Lambda sensor is so far from the exhaust flow, has meant that so far I havent gotten any codes or engine lights.
Its not too loud either, as the back-box does such a good job at making things quiet.

As far as affecting start up, it didnt change anything. The new injectors did that.

Of course, the EW10J4S is still terrible for the time that the secondary air injection map is running, so once Ive made a few more modifications i will see if I can get it tuned out by a professional, and get the ECU to take advantage of the modified exhaust properly

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Tomorrow I am cutting the stock muffler open, and freeing it up a bit. If its too obnoxious I can re-modify it.
Going to cut a rectangle out, cut some pipes, then rivet some sheet metal over the hole with high temp silicone/exhaust putty to seal it.

Just a bit of fun before I replace the whole rear muffler.

1542723466933.jpg

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Well Im part of the way there, too cold outside today. And I have a couple of days free so at the moment Im just looking inside and wondering what I should cut.

1542808664206.jpg1542808668232.jpg1542808672068.jpg

Stupidly I cut the lower side of the muffler when my plan was to cut the upper hidden side. But Ill just paint it all black so it doesnt stand out later.

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Every 180 I every drove cold did that until i replaced my vvt valve that was leaking oil and it stopped was perfect until I sold it


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 505 GR xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Every 180 I every drove cold did that until i replaced my vvt valve that was leaking oil and it stopped was perfect until I sold it


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 505 GR xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
I had a look at my valve but assumed it was fine. How did you know it was bad?

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So this is where I cut it. Now to attempt to reseal it. If it leaks badly I have another muffler to put on at a shop but anyway, Ill see how I go1542869697015.jpg I was thinking of flaring the pipe like the stock end there, but I dont think the air flow dynamics will really benefit after Ive messed with it so much haha 1542869800849.jpg1542869804145.jpg

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