Do you put the resin in a vacuum chamber for a bit before pouring?Since my last installment I have set the steel frame into permanent position in the mould and conducted a test close of the mould to ensure nothing is touching. Prior to that I painted on two coats of release wax which I did in the hot sun to ensure the brush marks flatten out. The wax then sets hard as it cools. Attention was paid to the threaded centre bolt and associated hardware which I also coated with wax to aid in removal later on, fingers crossed. I then laid some skinny beads of acrylic gap filler as shown to reduce leakage from the mould, as it turned out I only had one fluid leak after pouring of the epoxy commenced, this will be a personal best for me. Plasticine was on hand to plug said leak. You will also notice the three small pins called chaplets installed in key locations, the sole purpose of which is to help the steel frame maintain proper clearance.
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I poured the resin in while the whole shebang was in a vertical position, this aids the release of trapped air. The astute observer will of course have noticed the dandy little pouring funnel I carved in the plaster in readiness. A small quantity of resin is kept for topping up as the resin sinks in and most of the air bubbles find their way to the top. I fully expect to find small pockets of accumulated air or gas and other blemishes. In the next exciting episode I will explain how we deal with casting defects.
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I use a one to get rid of trapped air from mixing high temperature silicone rubber prior to pouring over the pattern.