how about some 403 discussion?

Like Graham, I'm a little less than enthused by any talk of a 'close ratio' gearbox... the changes in Pug box ratios have always been minimal.

As for the LRP/valve seats issue, to me there is only one answer... fit a tin canister and leave the engine alone. Unless, of course, you need to have the head worked on for some other reason.

With the cost of a gasket set added to the cost of fitting the seats, you're miles in front with a tin canister, and I've well and truly proved it's capable of doing the job.

See the other threads for my further thoughts on gearing...
 
I have scanned the pictures from the workshop manual for the horn, but they are just over the attatchment file size limit so I will email them to you.

There is a bloke here in southern Tas who raves about the "close raito" C2 box. He says I should stick one in mine, but I would prefer to have the original setup as a first choice. :confused: I suppose it comes down to whatever I can get easiest, but if I do get the early box and diff, I still need to know if my speedo will be out and what to do about it if it is.
 
Pugnut403 said:
I will see what I can dig up in the next few days.

The close ratio box and diff I might be getting will be the whole thing from drum to drum and torque tube. Can I swap the whole thing over?
Will there be speedo issues?
Do I need to put a new seal in the diff even if I am not taking it apart?
Should I discard teh idea and try and find another C3?
Click to expand...
Thanks Pugnut403. Got the scanned material on the Town and Country horn. Now the ball is in my court. Will have to get it going. End of holidays looming fast. :)
 
Good luck mate! :cheers:

Anything else you want, just let me know. I have teh factory manual and a set of parts catalogues, so I can scan anything else you need.
 
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