G'day - new 406 owner

T

turboslob

Member
Tadpole
Joined
Jun 7, 2018
Messages
74
Location
Near the capital
G'day.
Thought I'd say hi, and do a quick intro.
Just bought a 1999 406 diesel (manual) with reasonable ks to have a break from the cold (otherwise, I commute on motorcycle, and live near Canberra). I've owned a fair few bikes and cars, but this is my first Frenchy.

Anyway, quick coupla questions:
1. How do I work out what engine the car's running? I read that it changed near the build date (I think its build is Jun '99)?

2. There's a bit of oil(?) leaking all over the lower part of the intercooler, and the fins are proper clogged. Any hints to clean this out? Tried a tooth brush, and made it worse; just jammed all the gunk inside the fins!

Cheers, Slob
 
If you don't know exactly what you're looking at grab your VIN code. The engine type is encoded into the VIN with:
PC8, XUD11BTE, mechanical injection
RHZ, DW10ATED, HDi electronic injection
 
I'm not sure how intercoolers are set up, but tentatively I would suggest degreaser, then a good hose though. Then repeat.

Brake cleaner works well too, and doesan't need to be hosed off. It evaporates quite fast and is non-toxic to breathe in.....unlike barby cleaner :blackeye:
 
hypermiler said:
If you don't know exactly what you're looking at grab your VIN code. The engine type is encoded into the VIN with:
PC8, XUD11BTE, mechanical injection
RHZ, DW10ATED, HDi electronic injection
Click to expand...
Thanks - will look tonight.

Also, will try brake cleaner - is there anything (other than brakes) I need to keep it clear of?

Tks
 
Brake cleaner is quite OK on most things because it's designed to not affect brake rubbers, but some plastics might be affected with a whitish haze.
 
turboslob said:
G'day.
Thought I'd say hi, and do a quick intro.
Just bought a 1999 406 diesel (manual) with reasonable ks to have a break from the cold (otherwise, I commute on motorcycle, and live near Canberra). I've owned a fair few bikes and cars, but this is my first Frenchy.

Cheers, Slob
Click to expand...
Welcome to the club!

My 1999 406 diesel manual with many ks is a great car to own and drive. I've owned mine since October 2008, and have added some 300,000kms to the clock. When I was researching mine, I had a choice of two cars and a fellow owner on Aussiefrogs sent me a message warning me that I'd be "looking for excuses to drive the car rather than driving it only when needed." He was correct. I just love driving it, and I hope that you enjoy yours just as much as I do mine.

Cheers,
Andrew
 
Thanks, all.

Probably the most controversial question to ask, so you can guess it's about oil. The rig's above 350k, and I'm going to change the oil as there's no history. I have some full syn 5-30/40 knocking about that says it's suitable for 'light duty diesel' (I've used it in petrol cars and bikes previously). Thoughts? I don't have a manual, and don't even know what viscosity it's supposed to have.
I'm assuming it won't be an issue, given I've used diesel oil in petrol bikes before - surely oils are generally oils. Just the viscosity recommendation would assist, and I'll run the gauntlet on the oil, unless a 'don't do it!!!!!' response comes through.
 
The engine oil relates back to your original question, its different depending on which engine you have!
 
For an HDI engine with a particle filter - yours may be too early - low ash C2 grade is critical, no ifs, no buts. For other cars it's recommended and still a good idea as it reduces fouling of the EGR system. Penrite have it.
 
No particle filters in Australian delivered 406's they never met euro 5 emissions, only the 2.2 HDi had one that early on.
5W30 is suitable
 
No 406s did they just hit Euro 4 at the end and only in the direct injection petrol and one of the diesels
I would be looking at a 10/30 at that mileage
 
G'day again.

This morning, the check engine light showed itself. Of interest, it seems to have reduced the turbo's pressure and there's a significant lack of power above 2000rpms.

Anyone in the brains trust know what I should be looking for to rectify? Ran fine yesterday, now the light.

Cheers and thanks, Slob.
 
Try disconnecting the maf sensor they are pretty standard also vacuum pipes going to egr turbo and control valves also common less common injector wiring shortages and split turbo pipes


Fix it right the first time
 
There's a whole bunch of things that can cause a check engine light & limp mode.
We have 3 406hdi and have had all of them do this at some stage.
One was the egr valve
One was a split turbo hose (THAT was a bastard to find!)
One was a broken vacuum hose to the control valves on the firewall.
 
So, I thought I'd found out what ceased the 'check engine' light, but this is a new one (for the record, what was causing the light initially was 'overrun' when switching it off - I listen to podcasts and switched off super slow as if I turned it too far the audio would pause; thus the ignition was on/off for a moment which, next time I started, would cause the light).

This one was a new one. Long uphill, I'm in top gear ~90km/h/1750rpm close to full throttle when towards the end of the hill light switches on and lack of boost. Everyone overtakes.

Driving 300+k trip this week planned; what should I look for? Is there anything which is more likely during high boost?

Thanks, Slob.
 
Fuel starvation? My Xantia CT Turbo used to actually cut out under load - in that case there was never any fault light, and it would restart and run fine, until the next time.

Eventually found that the in-tank fuel strainer was clogged just enough to reduce maximum fuel flow, which is why symptoms generally only occurred on long hills (or of course passing B-doubles etc. :eek:). Replacing the in-line fuel filter did nothing - the problem was a sludge that apparently didn't get through the in-tank strainer.

Well that's my :2cents: worth - no doubt a dozen actual 406 diesel owners will leap in with far more plausible theories :wink2:.

Cheers

Alec
 
Could be it, Alec, though I wouldn't want to start with pulling the tank!
Tried removing battery terminal for about an hour today, reinstalled and it's still showing 'engine light'. What's the cost for the program and plug-in to diagnose codes?
Don't let me get annoyed and buy a Corolla!
Cheers, Slob.

Edit: also, what's the trick to removing the MAF plug? Do I just pull harder, or is there a catch somewhere? Tks
 
Last edited:
No need to remove tank to check in-tank filter (I am assuming it has an in-tank fuel pump) - Peugeot design is better than that :). You lift the base of the back seat, under which (on the driver's side) there is a removable inspection port. Looking down through this port, you should find wiring and fuel hoses going into the top of the fuel pump, which sits flush with the top of the tank.

The fuel pump is held down into the tank by a locking ring. Unplug the wiring and the hose(s), unscrew the locking ring (sometimes they jam) and you should be able to lift the fuel pump/gauge sender unit out and inspect and clean at your leisure!

Cheers

Alec

PS - probably easier to try a new fuel filter first!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top