As per usual the Fuego speedo and tacho needles are cactus. Purchased new ones and have fitted the speedo needle. Checking against my GPS I find as the speed climbs it gets further and further too fast. At 20 it read 21. By 90 it reads 110. I am assuming that the weight on the end might be too heavy. Does this make sense?
Fugeo Speedo Needle.
- Thread starter Sunroof
- Start date
rolling diameter wrong? I used Scenic steelies with 195/55R15 which I think is almost the same as the original metric thingys. Reset the needle so it's more less OK at cruising ? Old school way - time check it against a measured distance on the road.
My needles were replaced at an instrument place with super light aluminium ones, they check them on a machine that turns the shaft at the right speed.
Bob
My needles were replaced at an instrument place with super light aluminium ones, they check them on a machine that turns the shaft at the right speed.
Bob
I originally replaced them with needles from an R16 and I had to add weight to them to get them right. I used a dob of blue tack and I only replaced them with original style needles because I had to replace the drive cable and thought original style looked better. The cable screwed up when the trip meter jammed. I have disconnected its drive so no trip meter.
It is a new one. Its not the cable but the needle I think. I'll compare the weighted end with the old one, but different plastic perhaps.
2000s holden commodore fitted my fuego and was weighted correctly
Needle should balance at the pivot point on a knife edge. Short End = Heavy = x gms which should equal long end = x gms again.
As long as weights are equally Ok. There is not really any more to it
As long as weights are equally Ok. There is not really any more to it
Should try that I guess.
Hi Rob
I found this on the interweb, may save you some frustration.
I found this on the interweb, may save you some frustration.
agreed I remember the donor commondore speedo needle balanced on a flat surface.
but I think it would be more about what fits? as they all should be balanced, the problem I had with the fuego's was the needle degraded, bent, and interfered with the face. I suspect UV but could just be heat cycles.
Thanks Col I think that tells me all I need to know. Whether I can follow it well enough, given some differences, I'll see. I have two speedo's and both give different reading when driven with my drill. Interesting. Back to the workshop.
Done
can you weigh them?
You would need some good scales for weighing needles. The needles would only weigh a few grams.
I tried balancing them at the pin hole and the long end is much heavier. Obviously the spring must make up for the extra weight. Actually my second speedo is closer to being right. But it's trip and odometer jamb. I'll also look at my second car and see if I can see where the bent needle may have pointed when at zero. The pictures in a brochure actually show it in the middle of a marked box that has a 0 in the centre. I might have to get a hand held tacho to check the speed of the drill and then calculate what I need to do to get the speedo right at least at 100 kph.
Ho Rob, You can remove the little brass counterweight near the pivot, lighten it and glue it back in. Before you glue you can check the balance by putting the centre of the shaft housing of the needle on a knife edge. If you use a minimal quantity of super glue when balanced, it doesn't upset the balance too much.
On the bottom of the speedo face is R136J. I assumed this was that it was used on any Fuego as their R No. is 136X., however most speedos have the rpm that sets them for either 60 MPH or 100 KPH. written on the bottom of the face. As my drill is 1600 rpm then 100 kph could be about 1360. My assumption is that the J could vary depending on each individual speedo. Now 1600 rpm is 17% more than 1360. I have pruned a small amount off the needle weight and am getting closer. I'll keep trying. The "0" box allows for the needle to be adjusted any where in the box and therefore still be counted as zero.