Has anyone here used an Emerald ECU from the UK in upgrading to EFI and had any problems, including when using a rolling road to tune the car?
Emerald ECUs
- Thread starter bazzamac
- Start date
I have not used or know anyone in Australia that has used an Emerald ecu. Given Australia seems to have more programmable ecu brands than anywhere else, I would go with a Motec or Haltech.
These are well supported, well known and the unit required for your use is not overly expensive. I admit to having 3 old M4 Motecs, 1 of which is in use, that I did the wiring and basic programming myself, and will be fitting one more to the 4CV. They are about $500 ea, but are old comparatively.
A new Haltech Elite 750 is $1600 and I would expect would have all the functionality you would be looking for, if you are looking to inject an 807.
These are well supported, well known and the unit required for your use is not overly expensive. I admit to having 3 old M4 Motecs, 1 of which is in use, that I did the wiring and basic programming myself, and will be fitting one more to the 4CV. They are about $500 ea, but are old comparatively.
A new Haltech Elite 750 is $1600 and I would expect would have all the functionality you would be looking for, if you are looking to inject an 807.
Thanks Alan. Price wise they are about the same but Haltech will win out once fright is taken into account. Reason I looked at Emerald is because they were developed in conjunction with Jenvey Heritage carbs.
Any of the programmable ECUs made in the last 20 years will work with the Jenvey units. Still a quad throttle body with an injector per port. Pretty though.
Spoke to my mates at Dynotune and they are quite comfortable with tuning a car with Haltech ECU. They have not heard of Emerald which I guess is not surprising seeing it is UK based. To my mind, an ECU is an ECU - it is just aq question of how much support you get when you commit to one or the other. I think both are equal in this regard but when it comes to tuning the car locally, it is probably a safe bet to go with something the tuners are familiar with. All credit to Emerald anyway for not rushing to sell me their product without making sure I can get the car tuned by someone who is familiar with a particular ECU.
Haltech seem to be the most popular now. Andy Wyatt, the guy behind Adaptronic is now working for them and I believe has sold his business to them. The old Motecs I play with are very easy to set up and tune, given I was able to wire and program it to be drivable with a similar quad throttle body set up you are looking to use in an old car not made for injection.
Eventually I will be injecting the 807 in the 4CV, but I have tamed down the cam thinking I don't need a 150Hp in an unstable 650Kg car. Might only be 130 now.
Eventually I will be injecting the 807 in the 4CV, but I have tamed down the cam thinking I don't need a 150Hp in an unstable 650Kg car. Might only be 130 now.
If you can afford a good ecu. Use it. The old motec as are great just need the time to use them. I have M48 and it’s fantastic.
Haltech are the way to go value for money.
I’ll be going to haltech some day when the motec says enough.
Haltech are the way to go value for money.
I’ll be going to haltech some day when the motec says enough.
Depends on what market. Definitely in the Patrol world and the street scene in general. In the motorsport world however, it's either Motec or Emtron. I've recently purchased a KV8 Emtron and it's an amazing bit of gear. The fuel modelling is way ahead of anything in the Elite range. It looks expensive at first glance, but when you consider it has built-in lambda controllers, it's excellent value.
Have gone with Haltech 750 Elite series with universal wiring loom. Plus bought their MAP sensor, O2 sensor and air temp sensor. Already had Ford Fiesta crank sensor, coolant temp and knock sensor but having trouble finding female plug connectors. Rare Spares and Ford Spare here in Canberra unable to assist. Any suggestions?
Tried these guys in melb?
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Hi Peter. Thanks - you are correct as there is an input on the face of the ECU. Luckily it is still in the packet so will seek a refund from Haltech. I am looking at some further items from them in nay case.
Hi Alex thanks for the tip. Ordered connectors for air temp and crank sensor. Will see how they go when they arrive. Unable to find connector for knock sensor. Option are to do without or get one from Haltech if supported by ECU.
For sensor connectors you are sometimes better off finding a new sensor with the correct thread with a known plug. Bosch for temps, I used an oil pressure sensor from a Commodore. You can get connectors from Mouser if you know what it's called.
If you have two MAP sensors you can use one as an atmosphere reference
On my build I went with a ecu master emu black as it had a wide band O2 as well as knock and a configurable CAN interface
If you have two MAP sensors you can use one as an atmosphere reference
On my build I went with a ecu master emu black as it had a wide band O2 as well as knock and a configurable CAN interface
I have found that on modified naturally aspirated motors that I don’t use the MAP sensor and set up the injection using throttle position and revs.
The reason being with a biggish cam the vacuum is low and bit erratic at idle and low revs, making it confusing for the ECU concerning what load condition the motor is under, even though it would still be looking at throttle position in conjunction with the MAP.
I am certain that almost all tuners would be more talented than I, and although they may not have tuned an 807 it will respond in the same way as other N/A motors to changes.
115 Hp at 7000rpm at the wheels is quite good for an N/A pushrod 1600. Dynos do vary so don’t get too hung up on the final figure.
A friend ran his N/A 2.4L engine one day on a chassis dyno and had 253hp at the wheels, the next week on the same dyno it only had 223hp but seemingly on the track had lost nothing. Settings? I would hope that is an isolated case. Most important is not the final figure, but the area under the graph.
The reason being with a biggish cam the vacuum is low and bit erratic at idle and low revs, making it confusing for the ECU concerning what load condition the motor is under, even though it would still be looking at throttle position in conjunction with the MAP.
I am certain that almost all tuners would be more talented than I, and although they may not have tuned an 807 it will respond in the same way as other N/A motors to changes.
115 Hp at 7000rpm at the wheels is quite good for an N/A pushrod 1600. Dynos do vary so don’t get too hung up on the final figure.
A friend ran his N/A 2.4L engine one day on a chassis dyno and had 253hp at the wheels, the next week on the same dyno it only had 223hp but seemingly on the track had lost nothing. Settings? I would hope that is an isolated case. Most important is not the final figure, but the area under the graph.
