DS Rear Suspension Boot Questions

Do the gurus agree that this is correct?

I had to turn the boot inside out, and slide the small opening of the boot over ball end of the rod, over the flange and down onto the ribbed part of the rod - seems like there must be an easy way to do this, special tool?

Then fit ligerex clamp and pull the boot back over the clamped end.



First attempt I neglected to ensure the orientation of the hole in the rod was at 90 degrees to the high pressure line and return line on the boot, good practice for using ligarex and an obvious trap.

Now here's a few questions...
How do I tell if there is too much wear on the rod end?
Why does the wear appear to be horizontal when the rods movement would be vertical?
What grease is recommended when packing the ball cup?

attachment.php


Cheers
Chris
Hi Chris, The wear appears to be horizontal, but in actual fact it isn't. You can see that the upper and lower sections of the cup are relieved to allow for articulation on the pivot ball. The ball will wear a ridge in the cup and this can be carefully ground away to return the cup to a hemispherical shape. A new ball and some molybdenum disulphide grease is all that is required to put it back in good working order.
 
It's an old thread but pertinent for me today. The other day I noticed LHM droplets on the ground under the rear driver's side. "Better get that fixed before Cit-In" So this morning I pulled the suspension unit out and was surprised to find the extent of the tear.
IMG_7853.jpg
I looked back on my records and found that I last changed it 6 1/2 years and 40,000 kms ago. Okay I suppose for a repo part. Also replaced the ball and cup plus the lower bump stops (both sides).
IMG_7857.jpg
Nearly done, ready to put back in.
IMG_7855.jpg
IMG_7859.jpg
All back in and no leaks or clicks when the suspension pumps up. I've had the spare cups for years but never got around to putting them in!
IMG_7860.jpgIMG_7861.jpg
Just as I finished it started to rain and as the passenger's side isn't leaking at present it will have to wait until after Cit-In. I will change it and replace the ball & cup just to keep things consistent
 
Last edited:
Always good to reprise useful threads - such as this one. I replaced the RHR suspension boot a couple of weeks ago, and after a few days it started leaking. Pin holes in the rubber and a bad seam against the return pipe section - basically a poorly manufactured reproduction part. So before putting another on I did a search to make sure I was doing the job properly and found Chris’s excellent diagram and the ensuing discussion. The value of AF...
 
I bought an el cheapo ligarex style pair of pliers off ebay, Chrsyler $10 jobs or such, I'd like a proper pair but the ones I use do the trick just fine. I think the usual go is to wrap a strip of cloth under the strap to alleviate it digging into the rubber of the boots.
 
Yes that a good idea.
Your local sewing supplies shop has cotton tape in a variety of widths, starting at 12mm.
 
The idea of using fabric strips under worm drive clips was old Peugeot practice for radiator hoses. I did use tough blue masking tape for a period to perform the same purpose. It lasted well in an engine bay environment.
 
Top