DS brake swivel pipe repair?

Budge

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Fellow Frogger
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Hi
Someone a DS Facebook group has a weeping swivel joint on the pipe that carries hydraulic fluid to the brakes on the rear hub. Later Ds have a rubber flexi pipe instead of the jointed pipe and to upgrade to these would be one solution. However I'm (fairly) sure I saw something somewhere recently where someone had replaced the seal in the swivel joint and the pipe was good to go again.

Can anyone remind me whether I saw such a post here? and if so, is such a repair feasible and long-lasting?
 
Instructions given to me by Carter Wiley and Dave Burnham, If LHS use an LHS compatible o-ring.
2018-07-10

Converting or resealing brake swivels

Remove the aluminium cap taking care not to damage it. I use some heat, a flat blade pressing against the edge of the cap, and a light hammer. The wings around the brake line must be folded back to clear the line.

Remove the rubber seal from the mobile part of the line.

Remove the upset end of the mobile part where it's rivetted over a steel washer on the fixed part of the line. Remove only enough that you can remove the steel washer; then separate the two parts of the line.

Disassemble the fixed part by removing the two seals and the felt washer.

Clean the parts.

Drill a 1/8" hole in the outboard end of the mobile part of the union. Tap the hole to 4 x .75. If you're not careful you may drill into the hydraulic part of the union. This is ok as long as you remove all the swarf from the drilling and the line.

Install new seals 95587148 or 24822009 suitable for LHM. Install the felt washer soaked in LHM. Assemble the union and secure it with the original steel washer, a shakeproof washer 22900019 and a screw 4 x .75 x 12, threads of the bolt coated with sealing thread-locker. Install the rubber seal on the mobile part of the line. Install the aluminium cap, restoring any damage done during removal. The cap can be secured and sealed with silicone gasket sealer.
 
That's excellent! I will pass it on on facebook if I may and of course credit you and Aussiefrogs. If I'm honest, i will also salt the information away for my own purposes, as my car still has the swivels.
 
Sure, OK, I believe that after I used a blind tap to create the threads i decided that 4 x .75 x 12 was too long and I used 4 x .75 x 10. Therefore check the length.
 
This sounds all good..... except......
why is M4 x 0.75 specified?
Standard pitch for M4 is 0.70 and everyone would have this in their toolbox.
 
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