Dauphine gordini project

[Nacnud]

Also I've been replacing all of the brake wheel cylinders, not too hard. I ordered a new master cylinder as well not knowing how hard they are too get to to replace, any tips?
I thought there might have been an access panel on the inside and found a previous bodger has cut the floor so I'll see if this gives a little more access to get to the back of the cylinder, might as well use it if it is there.
Probably would be a lot easier with a hoist as well!

 

[JohnW]

Also I've been replacing all of the brake wheel cylinders, not too hard. I ordered a new master cylinder as well not knowing how hard they are too get to to replace, any tips?
I thought there might have been an access panel on the inside and found a previous bodger has cut the floor so I'll see if this gives a little more access to get to the back of the cylinder, might as well use it if it is there.
Probably would be a lot easier with a hoist as well!

Bit fiddly but quite achievable... One common mod. is to just shear off the existing bolts and replace with Alan head ones. It's a good time to replace the pressure switch that operates the brake lights. Some of us use silicone fluid too, each when you are replacing the rubber stuff anyway. I can attest to at least 20 years trouble free with no corrosion.

Have fun.

 

[Nacnud]

Bit fiddly but quite achievable... One common mod. is to just shear off the existing bolts and replace with Alan head ones. It's a good time to replace the pressure switch that operates the brake lights. Some of us use silicone fluid too, each when you are replacing the rubber stuff anyway. I can attest to at least 20 years trouble free with no corrosion.

Have fun.

Will definately use silicone brake fluid.

While turning the nuts the copper line spun with the nut a little bit before realising, I did soak with a rust realise fluid and stop when I first noticed but the they still turned when I continued undoing the nuts. Doesn't seem to be any damage to the copper lines but should I replace them anyway? They did turn a lighter colour when spinning.

 

[wheelnut]

Hi Nacnud and others. Can I jump into this post for a moment to ask about the 12 V conversion please? . I'm contemplating that for my just commenced quatrelle project,, and I'm keen to know whether I need to change components like the fuel gauge sender and the fuel gauge in the dashboard. All tips on what I need to watch out for will Be welcome. Thanks. Ian.

 

[Nacnud]

Hi Nacnud and others. Can I jump into this post for a moment to ask about the 12 V conversion please? . I'm contemplating that for my just commenced quatrelle project,, and I'm keen to know whether I need to change components like the fuel gauge sender and the fuel gauge in the dashboard. All tips on what I need to watch out for will Be welcome. Thanks. Ian.

I've only got as far as putting on a 12v coil and capacitor on the distributor, was planning on a few in line step down relays to the electrical componants that need them. Not sure if the fuel sender and guage would need one?

 

[Nacnud]

I was originally questioning whether I needed to replace the master cylinder, the old one was full of rust and gunk.

The noticed that main copper line from the reservior is quite twisted, I'll get a new one made up and maybe replace a few other too while I'm at it. Better than having brake failure later on!

 

[Greenpeace]

I've only got as far as putting on a 12v coil and capacitor on the distributor, was planning on a few in line step down relays to the electrical componants that need them. Not sure if the fuel sender and guage would need one?

If your fuel gauge and sender work, just get a voltage stabiliser off a 12V '60s car that had one fitted. Early Falcons and Hillmans spring to mind, but there will be others..
They just screwed to the back of the instrument panel and have 2 spade terminals on them, 12V in, and depending on the model somewhere between 5V and 7V out. You would fit it into the + wire to the gauge.
They fitted these to try and make the gauges less erratic with the early 12V electrics.
I might have an old Falcon one here somewhere if you wanted to go that route, I'd have to have a look.

 

[wheelnut]

That sounds like a good answer, Greenpeace. I'll see what I can hunt up.

 

[geckoeng]

I was originally questioning whether I needed to replace the master cylinder, the old one was full of rust and gunk.

The noticed that main copper line from the reservior is quite twisted, I'll get a new one made up and maybe replace a few other too while I'm at it. Better than having brake failure later on!

I always have the m/c fitted with stainless bore. that way future repairs are only rubber kits ...


Ray

 

[JohnW]

Will definately use silicone brake fluid.

While turning the nuts the copper line spun with the nut a little bit before realising, I did soak with a rust realise fluid and stop when I first noticed but the they still turned when I continued undoing the nuts. Doesn't seem to be any damage to the copper lines but should I replace them anyway? They did turn a lighter colour when spinning.

Lots of opinions on that one! Personally (that is, NOT a recommendation as I'm not qualified to give them) I'd just check whether the joints seal when done up again. If they seal, they seal, right? I'm sure some folk would say replace the lines and I wouldn't argue with them.

 

[JohnW]

I was originally questioning whether I needed to replace the master cylinder, the old one was full of rust and gunk.

The noticed that main copper line from the reservior is quite twisted, I'll get a new one made up and maybe replace a few other too while I'm at it. Better than having brake failure later on!

Previous owners at work with the piping I see. Gawd. That puts the pressure lines into some perspective...

 

[JohnW]

Hi Nacnud and others. Can I jump into this post for a moment to ask about the 12 V conversion please? . I'm contemplating that for my just commenced quatrelle project,, and I'm keen to know whether I need to change components like the fuel gauge sender and the fuel gauge in the dashboard. All tips on what I need to watch out for will Be welcome. Thanks. Ian.

Plenty of us find 6V perfectly OK. Use headlamp relays and 6V QI bulbs of course.

 

[Andrew Watkins]

Plenty of us find 6V perfectly OK. Use headlamp relays and 6V QI bulbs of course.

The other useful addition is a 6V alternator, obtainable from US

It makes one MUCH more visible to lorries at night when not using glow worm power

Andrew

 

[JohnW]

The other useful addition is a 6V alternator, obtainable from US

It makes one MUCH more visible to lorries at night when not using glow worm power

Andrew

So right. If feeling very affluent, in UK they sell 6V alternators inside a look-alike Dauphine generator. I've used the cheaper US option and painted it semi-gloss black so it isn't too obvious. An electronic flasher unit with LED bulbs gives a very sharp on-off switching for the indicators too, which is more noticeable. Being run over can be a bigger hazard than less than perfect headlamps - I have excellent new Cibie reflectors and relays adjacent to them.

 

[wheelnut]

Thanks John and Andrew. The 6v alternator sounds the way to go. I'll start looking. And Andrew, Auto Cable in Eltham say they can do the repair on my DS speedo cable. I'm posting the original to them tomorrow. Thanks for the lead. Ian

 

[JohnW]

Thanks John and Andrew. The 6v alternator sounds the way to go. I'll start looking. And Andrew, Auto Cable in Eltham say they can do the repair on my DS speedo cable. I'm posting the original to them tomorrow. Thanks for the lead. Ian

Here's where I got mine. He sells on Ebay. Try www.ebay.com, the US page, if the link below doesn't work.

Howard Enterprises (Bill is the contact man’s name)

https://www.ebay.com/str/howardent Ebay seller ID is billh6800

USA

Supplies 6V, single-wire alternators from USA. Very responsive and has supplied 60 and 100 amp 6V alternators to several members.

April 2020

Here are the generator look-alike ones from England: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/renault-dauphine-4cv-juvaquatre-etc They are expensive. Sit down before you open the web page! Look good though.

 

[Andrew Watkins]

There is certainly a price on “ originality”

Might stick with my el cheapo American one, which has behaved perfectly

Also possible to get mysterious aluminium box which takes the 6V feed and turns it into 12,24 or 32 V. This has allowed me to run 6V for the stuff which is a pain( for me ) to switch over while having one or two 12V circuits for stuff such as gps, phone charging and radio

Bloke in Qld makes them but there are other sources.

One thing to watch is that some ( eg mine ) use a Zener diode circuit which draws current even when car switched off. This cost me one battery before I dropped to it

Once thought through this has been a good mix of solutions

Andrew

 

[JohnW]

I have a tiny circuit thingy that gives me 12 for an accessory circuit for the cigarette lighter socket for the GPS. Cost about $1.50 from China and hasn't lost its smoke running the GPS. Yet...

I have a NOS 6V Motorola radio from about 1960, part-transistorised but with a valve for the amplifier for sound. Just AM and analogue. It's actually a better AM radio than new multiband radios in our other cars. No surprise there in a way, as OS places have seen a decline in AM.

 

[Nacnud]

So I've replaced the main brake line from the master to the reservoir, had to go to several brake places before I found one that could make one up, it was also stupidly hard to plumb in because of the bends. Also replaced the two front brake lines while I was at it. None of the others twisted or looked damaged so hopefully will be okay. I've ordered dot 5 brake fluid so will fill and bleed this week hopefully.

Changed the steering wheel, this is one I had lying around so might change to a larger diameter wooden rim later in the 350mm diameter is to much effort to turn. Had to make up a cover ring behind the adapter out of plywood, which turned out quite well.

I haven't done the main nut up tight yet by the way, just in case you spot the amount of thread the nut is holding.

 

[JohnW]

So I've replaced the main brake line from the master to the reservoir, had to go to several brake places before I found one that could make one up, it was also stupidly hard to plumb in because of the bends. Also replaced the two front brake lines while I was at it. None of the others twisted or looked damaged so hopefully will be okay. I've ordered dot 5 brake fluid so will fill and bleed this week hopefully.

Changed the steering wheel, this is one I had lying around so might change to a larger diameter wooden rim later in the 350mm diameter is to much effort to turn. Had to make up a cover ring behind the adapter out of plywood, which turned out quite well.

I haven't done the main nut up tight yet by the way, just in case you spot the amount of thread the nut is holding.

Doesn't need to be ridiculously tight, that centre wheel nut. Just tight.

There's a trap about Dot 5 too. There is also a Dot 5.1 which is NOT silicone - I caught a brake specialist in Perth selling 5.1 as being silicone a few years back. Had to step in as an expert geologist...