Cruise control fitment and frustration

pottsy

pottsy

Citroen Loony & BMC Nutter.
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I have a cruise control here which was functioning before removal from a Son's car. It's a Command AP60 unit.

Having installed it in GiSelle the GS I'm reaching breaking point with the %#$%#^$&^%# thing! If anyone out there in Froggy Land is familiar with this unit, could you please peruse the following and see if I've strayed from the path somewhere?

Firstly, the base unit is supplied with switched volts and a good earth. (Both checked, several times).

The control unit has 4 wires going to it from the base unit. These all seem to function correctly in that the LED on the base unit reacts according to the installation instructions. It switches on when set, res and brake inputs are energised, and comes on for 8 seconds when ignition is turned on and thereafter toggles with the power switch. The control unit LED is very dim when on, but has occasionally lit to full brightness, for no apparent or logical reason. The LED is operated by a transistor on the PCB switched by a 4013 dual logic IC. Putting a hard earth on the relevant wire at the base unit connector results in the LED lighting normally, so the wiring connection is fine, I assume.

With the exception of the LED on the control unit, the diagnostic tests all give a positive result. Accessing the diagnostic mode results in audible clicking of both set and vent solenoids.

The LED on the base unit cycles with rotation of the monitored wheel.

The brake light switch has constant 12v on one side and the brake lights on the other. I've tried reversing these and no joy.

Oh, and there's a good vacuum supply to the servo unit, and I've checked the solenoids and wiring of this.

Despite all this, the unit resolutely refuses to take up the slack and function as a cruise control.

I assume there's a faulty input somewhere, and logically it may be related to the aberrant LED behavior on the control unit, but so far I'm stonkered.

Anyone with ideas, I'm happy to hear them.

Cheers, Pottsy.
 
Just out of interest… what car did it come out of? It wasn’t a car with the brake lights switched via - rather then +?
Is the wheel sensor triggering at similar frequency to what it would have been on the previous installation (it hasn’t been moved from a tail shaft to a driveshaft or something where the revolutions per meter traveled would be less)?
 
angru said:
Just out of interest… what car did it come out of? It wasn’t a car with the brake lights switched via - rather then +?
Is the wheel sensor triggering at similar frequency to what it would have been on the previous installation (it hasn’t been moved from a tail shaft to a driveshaft or something where the revolutions per meter traveled would be less)?
Click to expand...
I remember the one I had once, 2 magnets when mounted to the CV inner, only one is fitted to a driveshaft. Wish I'd kept it and fitted it to the Alpine.
 
Thanks guys.

Over a couple of tries yesterday I had the LED on the control module either working (occasionally) or on all the time. In diagnostic mode at various times I could hear the solenoids operating, and for one ecstatic moment I actually had the servo increasing the revs. But sadly, it still doesn't work consistently, or, even at all.

I just had to walk away and do something else before I did me lolly completely!

This particular unit was installed first in a 205 then later in a Mini. Removed from the 205 because he didn't like it and removed from the Mini because of a lack of vacuum. I don't believe it has an inherent problem, I'm quite happy to believe I've done something wrong, just don't know what yet.

I don't believe the issue lies with the speed sensor as it flashes the LED on the base module when rotating. That being said, I don't have the original little black plackie unit so I butchered an old relay and mounted that on the front hub. A pair of rare earth magnets epoxied to the inside of the drive flange and it generates a waveform quite well as far as I can see.

More anon, when I've calmed down enough to tackle it.

Stay tuned for more exciting news as it comes to hand! :)

Cheers, Pottsy

PS, I've got all the installation manuals, and so far the diagnostic tests seem to pass.
 
hmm i installed an old cruise control that was working ok into my camper van. but i have never got it working. seems to test ok etc but my patience ran out. it is still mounted but i have not got back to it. not the same brand. o_O o_O
jaahn
 
Hi.

Many years ago I used to install quite a few trip computers mainly for accurate distance measurement, ofter we never installed the cruise control part. But that is a long time ago.

I can see that you have checked and double checked things.

I often step back and try to work out "what is different" or "what has changed" when confronted with problems with prior functioning devices.

I can see that you have replaced the motion sensor, but the fact that it is triggering the LED to pulse as the input magnets move past the pickup seems to indicate that is functioning correctly.

Is there some sort of master reset that you can perform and then start configuring from scratch?

Cheers
 
Well I had another crack today.

I removed and dismantloed the control unit and checked it at component level: No faults. (three push button switches, 1 LED and 3 resistors!)
I then checked that the connections at the base unit were receiving the correct signals from the control unit: they are.
Supply and ground are solid and p[resent at the right places. The servo is connected correctly, as is the brake light switch. Note that all of this is independent of the speed sensor input, since the diagnostic mode is supposed to supplant that for initial testing.

The fact that the LED on the control unit is lit all the time, despite the diagnostic actions all checking out OK, says to me that there's a fault on the pcb of the base unit and I'm wasting my time! No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get any kind of positive responses such as I had before.

My suspicion is that whatever internal connection is causing the LED to stay on is also inhibiting the operation. As far as I can tell there's a 4013 dual flip flop IC which is interfaced via a transistor to the LED. Given that it's all surface mount, I don't really fancy tackling it any deeper at this stage. If anyone has a schematic diagram for the AP60 control unit I'd love to see it, but I suspect intellectual property considerations would intervene.

I reckon she's cactus!

Looks like I just have to drive to the Cit-In old school, with only my right foot! :)

Thanks for the responses. Cheers, Pottsy.
 
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