Clutch cable broke
- Thread starter MadBiker
- Start date
If it's like the 306 which I'd imagine it is, it's not hard providing you have two people, one to push the cable through the firewall and the other to locate it in position.
Expect ~$120 for a cable.
Derek
Expect ~$120 for a cable.
Derek
STOP!
Before you go out and order a new cable, check the white nylon connection between the clutch pedal and cable. My guess? It's broken due to abrasion of the nylon wearing it out at the pivot point.
Mine let go a few months ago and I replaced it at the side of the road (always carry a spare).
I could pass on the part number if you need one. They're a few bucks here in Canada (well under $10).
Before you go out and order a new cable, check the white nylon connection between the clutch pedal and cable. My guess? It's broken due to abrasion of the nylon wearing it out at the pivot point.
Mine let go a few months ago and I replaced it at the side of the road (always carry a spare).
I could pass on the part number if you need one. They're a few bucks here in Canada (well under $10).
I beleive this could be the case, as i had a look and there isn't anything attached to the pedal at this present time. were abouts should it be connected? and were did the clutch cable go? back into the firewall i gather?
cheers
Nathan
cheers
Nathan
i found a bit of white plastic around the pedel, i beleive it's the cause of my stress. nrma bloke is going to come over hopefulyl we can make some kinda patch to fix it...
can someone tell me how i go about trying to fix it? push the cable through somehow?
cheers
Nathan
can someone tell me how i go about trying to fix it? push the cable through somehow?
cheers
Nathan
Clutch clip
OK, that's likely it then. Look for the rest of the white nylon. Part of it may still be attached to the end of the cable, or loose on the ground or jammed in the pedal hardware somewhere. The rest of the nylon clip has a spring metal clamp attached to it, which should be recovered if possible and re-used when you get the new nylon piece.
Part numbers (assuming they use the same bits for LHD and RHD 405s (and I don't see why they wouldn't):
- Nylon cable link piece: 2128.17
- Spring metal clip that holds clutch cable to nylon link: 2138.05
The only one of these that typically breaks is the nylon bit, 2128.17. What happens is that there is a part of that nylon that links into the hook on the upper end of the clutch pedal. This part is of course subject to wear (metal-on-nylon) whenever you use the clutch. Eventually, some significant portion of the nylon ends up being worn away and the remaining nylon becomes too thin to support the load imposed by the clutch mechanism when disengaging it. Then it snaps. Putting a new one in should make the car good for at least another several tens of thousands of clutch actuations.
Replacing it is not that hard, but it can look daunting. Get the new part. You'll see it has a sort of "rod" sticking out one side - this rod runs in the metal "guide rail" that you see next to the clutch pedal. The guide rail is curved, to match the path of the clutch pedal when it is depressed. It's pretty obvious which end of the nylon links into the clutch pedal. The other end is where the spring metal clip is attached - rather like a guillotine - and it is this end into which the clutch cable end snaps.
Look towards the firewall by the pedal box and make sure that the tapered metal end of the clutch cable is visible and that none of the old white nylon clip remains in place. If there is any, remove it. If the guillotine spring metal clip is still attaching the broken nylon to the cable end, use a screwdriver to lift the metal bit of the guillotine metal clip upwards about 5-6 mm relative to the nylon and then the broken bit of nylon should come off the cable end.
Firstly, put the guillotine spring metal clip onto the new nylon clip, engage it all the way. Then bend the metal "guide rail" out of the way - careful, you'll need to move it back later - then attach the nylon link to the clutch pedal, then bend the "guide rail" back into position. Move the clutch pedal up and down a bit (it is not yet attached to the cable) and it should move freely, with the nylon "rod" running in the metal guide rail that you've just bent back into place. OK? Then simply lift the clutch pedal up from the floor, hard, until you hear a "click". The clutch cable is now attached to the pedal. It works. Congratulations.
There's no way to mickey something together to make a temporary repair, unless you have a sophisiticated machine shop. Any dealer worth his salt should have at least one of these clips in stock.
MadBiker said:
OK, that's likely it then. Look for the rest of the white nylon. Part of it may still be attached to the end of the cable, or loose on the ground or jammed in the pedal hardware somewhere. The rest of the nylon clip has a spring metal clamp attached to it, which should be recovered if possible and re-used when you get the new nylon piece.
Part numbers (assuming they use the same bits for LHD and RHD 405s (and I don't see why they wouldn't):
- Nylon cable link piece: 2128.17
- Spring metal clip that holds clutch cable to nylon link: 2138.05
The only one of these that typically breaks is the nylon bit, 2128.17. What happens is that there is a part of that nylon that links into the hook on the upper end of the clutch pedal. This part is of course subject to wear (metal-on-nylon) whenever you use the clutch. Eventually, some significant portion of the nylon ends up being worn away and the remaining nylon becomes too thin to support the load imposed by the clutch mechanism when disengaging it. Then it snaps. Putting a new one in should make the car good for at least another several tens of thousands of clutch actuations.
Replacing it is not that hard, but it can look daunting. Get the new part. You'll see it has a sort of "rod" sticking out one side - this rod runs in the metal "guide rail" that you see next to the clutch pedal. The guide rail is curved, to match the path of the clutch pedal when it is depressed. It's pretty obvious which end of the nylon links into the clutch pedal. The other end is where the spring metal clip is attached - rather like a guillotine - and it is this end into which the clutch cable end snaps.
Look towards the firewall by the pedal box and make sure that the tapered metal end of the clutch cable is visible and that none of the old white nylon clip remains in place. If there is any, remove it. If the guillotine spring metal clip is still attaching the broken nylon to the cable end, use a screwdriver to lift the metal bit of the guillotine metal clip upwards about 5-6 mm relative to the nylon and then the broken bit of nylon should come off the cable end.
Firstly, put the guillotine spring metal clip onto the new nylon clip, engage it all the way. Then bend the metal "guide rail" out of the way - careful, you'll need to move it back later - then attach the nylon link to the clutch pedal, then bend the "guide rail" back into position. Move the clutch pedal up and down a bit (it is not yet attached to the cable) and it should move freely, with the nylon "rod" running in the metal guide rail that you've just bent back into place. OK? Then simply lift the clutch pedal up from the floor, hard, until you hear a "click". The clutch cable is now attached to the pedal. It works. Congratulations.
There's no way to mickey something together to make a temporary repair, unless you have a sophisiticated machine shop. Any dealer worth his salt should have at least one of these clips in stock.
Last edited:
here is a pic to go with the above instructions just to make things a little clearer
well i ordered the bit, 14 + postage...
should take about a week to get here :-( so cars off the road, hopefully i can fix it my self, and all will be well..
thanks for your help so far, nobody around here knew that even the nrma bloke thought we would have to replace the whole cable...
if i run into drama's installing it i know were ill be posting
cheers
Nathan
should take about a week to get here :-( so cars off the road, hopefully i can fix it my self, and all will be well..
thanks for your help so far, nobody around here knew that even the nrma bloke thought we would have to replace the whole cable...
if i run into drama's installing it i know were ill be posting
cheers
Nathan