Clio running on 2 or 3 cylinders ...

R

rc968

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Aug 10, 2003
Messages
148
Location
NSW
Hi everyone,

My '02 Clio 1.4L today all of a sudden developed this problem. The engine vibrates rather bad and feels like it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders, as power is reduced significantly as well. Plus that the exhaust smells abnormal as well. No warning lights came on however, and problem does not go away after switching on/off or slight revving.

Further research on internet shows that someone in UK had a similar problem and it was due to faulty ignition coils, and the unburnt fuel may burn the catalyst converter.

Just wondering if someone has similar problems, and/or please offer commemts and suggestions.

Also would it ne safe to drive to the dealer (15km or so)? Would I risk further (permenant) engine and/or catalyst converter damage?

Thanks in advance.

Ps. The car has been using Optimax since new, except last 3 tankful where I am trialing BP Ultimate.
 
rc968,

This is a very very interesting thing for you to bring up. My sister's Clio 1.4 suffered a similar situation earlier this year. She took it to the dealer and left it there for 2 days, and it was un-reproduceable. It hasn't done it since.

Have a look at this link: <a href="http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000587" target="_blank">http://www.aussiefrogs.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000587</a>

Let us know how it goes.

Derek
 
Hi Deka,

Read your post before I posted mine, I actually had similar problem before.

A few months ago I left the the car sitting there for around 7 - 10 days, and when I started the car, it idled badly and also sounded like no oil up the top. However, from previous experience with another car, I let it idled (and drove very slowly) and the problem gradually went away after 2-3 minutes or so. I never took it to the dealer, as it have been fine since. I think the cause of problem was that the engine has not run for many days, and all oil drained back to the sump, the lifters(or other components) may have been drained also and thus producing the loud tapping noise. As for bad idle I think it may have been due to bad fuel pressure also from not running for a few days.

As for the current problem, it was unlike previous, because it is not going away....And I think it is definetly running on 3 or less cylinders....

Going to the dealer tomorrow, and will update then.
 
rc968,

Is it blowing white smoke whilst running on 2 or 3 cylinders? That would indicate something terrible had gone wrong like a blown head gasket which is a problem that won't go away. Check your coolant level before you set off to the dealer ok?

In relation to being very noisy after not being started for a while, after speaking to a number of mechanics we think it must be a non-return valve that had become stuck and allowed the oil to drain back to the sump. The car has sat for extended periods of time since that problem occured and it hasn't done it again.

Derek.
 
Is it still under warranty? I would take to the dealer as soon as possible or try a decent Renault mechanic?
If they hook it up to a computer im sure they will easily be able to tell whats wrong and fix it... eek!
 
danielsydney:
Is it still under warranty? I would take to the dealer as soon as possible or try a decent Renault mechanic?
If they hook it up to a computer im sure they will easily be able to tell whats wrong and fix it... eek!
Click to expand...
Daniel,
Don't be silly - of course it is. rc968 told us when it was bought (Jan 2002). Interestingly, if it is the same trouble my sister has had, the computer will tell them diddly squat.

Derek.
 
Deka,

Fortunately it's not blowing smoke, but didproduce burning smell of some sort, which is still a bit worrying. All fluid level are fine. Hope I can make it to the dealer ok...

On the computer issue, I do hope errors shave been logged. Because if the car *IS* running on 3 or less cylinders and detected, it would probably trigger the engine warning light. Unless the comp think it's still safe to drive on, or it is in some kind of "limp-home" mode...

Have a look at this:
<a href="http://www.carsurvey.org/review_31473.html" target="_blank">web page</a>

rc968
 
Hi Guys,

is it a 2 coil setup where 2cylinder get fired by each coil?? If this is the case, I'd be checking the coils... Was it really hot under the bonnet? Coils have been known to go open circuit under extreme heat, then work again when they cool down a little.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Since we have established it is under warranty; ever thought about ringing the dealer direct and say you are wary of driving it - send a tilt tray and come and pick it up!!!

Whatever is wrong, they will be required to fix - subject to the terms of the warranty. They may appreciate a chance to get to it before more damage is done.

My two cents worth.
 
Hi guys thanks for more inputs.

DoubleChevron:

is it a 2 coil setup where 2cylinder get fired by each coil?? </strong>
Hehe..don't know..I had a look under the engine cover and the spark plugs (if they are what I think they are) do not resemble the older system that I know more about..
<strong>
Was it really hot under the bonnet?
</strong>
Not that I know of...
Click to expand...
Would someone know this?
Does the new Clio (or modern cars) use some sort of low power electronic spark plug thingy? As opposed to conventional system where thick ignition wires are used.

I have also thought about getting the dealer to send a flat-bed to pick the car up. Haven't call them as yet, because I would like to find out a bit more before approaching them, so I know what they are talking about... Definetly calling them on Tuesday.

RC968
 
I'll have a look at my sister's Clio tomorrow afternoon (under that plastic cover!?)

I'd imagine as Shane has described the Clio would have a small coilpack above each sparkplug, which means no high tension leads, as you're thinking. My 306 engine has this type of system.

Derek
 
Had a similar situation with a R21 - my over exhuberance to keep the engine bay clean resulted in water getting in the spark plug head cavities and causing shortage - this caused incorrect engine management signals and the ECU was only using a couple of injectors and these for extended injection sequences (intermittently of course in accordance with Mr. Murphy) - once everything was dried, and the plugs were also replaced all was OK
Get your car taken to your dealer so that electronic diagnostics can be used "while you have the problem" for a speedy solution
 
Update....(finally after a few days...)

Tuesday:
Thanks to Renault Roadside Assist, a NRMA technicion came out to have a look, as he tried to start the car, it actually had problem starting! Weird as I had no problem the night before. He determined that it is definetly not running on all cylinders, and organized a tow, so the car was towed to the dealer that afternoon.

Wednesday:
Dealer called and informed the car has been fixed, problem is a due to a defective coil-pack.

Friday:
Due to time restraints I had to pick the car up today. Talked to dealer about it, seems that coil-pack tends to play up in a few Clios. Replaced it under warranty and all is well.

HOWEVER, few minutes after I drove off, I noticed that a few things aren't working (temp guage, tacho, driver-window auto up-down, window demister etc. Brought it back, they inspected it and also reported door-locking problems (car locking itself). Initially they thought there were some instructions missing in the computer, so they obtained new downloads from Renault(France) and re-programmed it, and seemed fine. They took it for a test drive and reported that problem happend again after going over a bump. This time it was diagnosed as a loose connection somewhere, taking out the linked items.
So, car still in repair, hopefully should have it back on Monday.
Being "unlucky" that these faults happen, I was happy that the dealer was quite helpful, friendly and expeditious in dealing with the situation.

----Extra Info for those who's interested ----
From what I was told the Clio's ignition system is a "coil-over" system, where there is an individual coil-pack over each spark plug, and when one is faulty, the computer takes out the opposite cylinder, (eg. 1 fails and 4 is taken out as well). No errors were logged in the computer, as it only detects a "primary fault" and that's it. In my situation the coil-pack for No.4 cylinder were arcing/shorting out. When NRMA guy had a look he pulled the plug one-by-one for all 4 cylinders, and seems that all were functioning properly. So if you were isolating the faulty coil-pack, it may all appear to be working.
 
:( Still haven't got my car back...I'm starting to miss my little Clio...

Have been driving the loan car (1.4 Privilege Auto) since Friday afternoon. Loved it..and my firends who drove it liked it as well. It was faster then I expected. And the 15" wheels with Continental Premium Contact tyres, whooo, handels a lot better than my 14 inch-ers. Never knew the Clio chassis is such a well balanced, nice handling one. :D

I'm seriously considering an upgrade...
[edit]upgrade to wheels and tyres, not car...

<small>[ 19 August 2003, 03:22 PM: Message edited by: rc968 ]</small>
 
rc I was wondering what the clio auto was like? Whats it like with the air con on also?
 
In short the auto feels like the manual but with 4 taller gears instead of 5.
It climbs towards the red line a bit slower and hang on to each gear longer also. Under normal driving (i.e. in no hurry)it feels as fast as the manual as you don't need to change gear. Acceleration-wise still slightly slower than manual in faster driving.

However, being an auto, at times it will choose the wrong gear for your liking, and loses time in downshift (kick-down). With A/C on there is a slight loss in power (as with the manual), but again can't quite tell the difference unless being pedentic.

I *think* the auto is those self-learning-and-adjust type, ie shift pattern depends on your driving style (or traffic). Left my manual in the car at the dealer so can't look it up. Because under some conditions it will hang on in 3rd and won't shift up into 4th. Good when you are driving "spirited", it won't shift into 4th when you just slightly lifted the gas to suit the bend (or traffic), power is there when you put your foot back down again (instead of having to kick-down). On the other hand at times it stays in 3rd leaving you wondering why it isn't shifting up. Probably just need getting used to and adjust your foot to suit.

Overall an excellent auto-box.

<small>[ 19 August 2003, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: rc968 ]</small>
 
Update:
Picked up my car today. Dealer replaced a unit I think is called DHU, something that collects and forward signals to the actual computer, and all is well. However I think another coil pack is playing up.... As engine is weird and lacking power again. Or maybe computer related.
Going back tomorrow for a check up whlie I get my spare key re-programmed.

I hope I'm not being anti-Renault here by saying all these negative things...
 
Is is very disheartening but when its sorted youll be fine. You are not being anti-Renault... wink
 
Drove around last night and engine is definetly not running right. I was getting erratic idles, lack of power, and power surges etc.

Very interestingly, this morning I started the car to take it in, I lost the tacho/temp guages etc again, however, during this time, the engine was fine and smooth. Restarted the car, guages came back, but engines runs badly again.

Not sure if this is coincidental, or related. I am beginning to think that they are linked and effecting each other with a bug somewhere in the computer(s).

I need expert opinions...any Renault engineers or Clio experts out there?

Ps. Notes for future trouble-shooters:
The following things seems to be connected to the same control, ie with the bug/fault these items will stop working as a group:
tachometer, temp guage, rear window demister, driver window auto-up-down, air-con blowing to footwell. (more items could be linked but unknown)

<small>[ 20 August 2003, 05:19 PM: Message edited by: rc968 ]</small>
 
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