Citroen c5 x7 2.7hdi

ben stellini said:
The car is in park , but thinks it’s in drive as per dash info .
I did damage the white detent button with the ball bearing on top. Thought it was the lever to get it out of park.
I don’t see a electrical connection. Need to sort this before looking at other things
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Gearbox cable was disconnected, now able to turn the motor over . Sounds like it’s struggling to turn over . Won’t start
Oil is clean , motor doesn't smell burnt .
I think there is water in the cylinders .
 
Ken W said:
Oh Dear, sounds like you have had the dreaded coolant manifold failure. We all hope your engine has survived this event.

Regards, Ken
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Hi ken finally started the car it sounds awful, lots of rattling and knocking very hard to start won’t idle blowing white smoke .
Are the turbos water cooled ?
So motor rebuild ? has anyone done one or is it just to expensive or difficult . Thanks Ben
 
Hi Ben,

That sort of start is not a good omen. Did the white smoke disappear into the air? If it does that means it is heated water vapour condensing in the cooler atmosphere as it comes out of the exhaust pipe. So you must have coolant getting into the cylinders which means the head gaskets have failed and at likely the heads are probably warped.

Hopefully, someone else with more experience can comment on where you might go from here - get a short replacement motor or a low kilometer motor from a crash damaged C5X7.

Commiserations Ken
 
White smoke from a diesel can also be unburnt fuel. We used to see it often in the old indirect injection engines.
 
Ken W said:
Hi Ben,

That sort of start is not a good omen. Did the white smoke disappear into the air? If it does that means it is heated water vapour condensing in the cooler atmosphere as it comes out of the exhaust pipe. So you must have coolant getting into the cylinders which means the head gaskets have failed and at likely the heads are probably warped.

Hopefully, someone else with more experience can comment on where you might go from here - get a short replacement motor or a low kilometer motor from a crash damaged C5X7.

Commiserations Ken
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Thanks for the reply , lots of small metal pieces in the oil filter. And the smoke hung around for a few minutes. Either way the motor is done .
Is the 3 litre motor an option or do you have to stay with the 2.7 from a wreck . Are there companies that do short motors ?
Pretty disappointed but have to move forward . Or buy another car
 
seasink said:
White smoke from a diesel can also be unburnt fuel. We used to see it often in the old indirect injection engines.
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Thanks for your input, my mates a mechanic, he said it’s a scary looking motor to work on .
He thinks a rebuild would be more than the cars worth.
 
You can get Ford Territories reconditioned, ie short motor, so it might be a way out if the top end stuff is good. A wrecker is worth a try. for an engine.
 
It's probably best to find a good running replacement from another C5 or 407. C5 will be easier because you will avoid any detail differences in fixings and holes for dressing the block. Have a look at the Youtube videos by the German who has rebuilt a few of these in LandRovers. It might help you decide how to attack it.
The block and pistons are listed as an assembly by Citroen so not intended to be repaired.
 
seasink said:
You can get Ford Territories reconditioned, ie short motor, so it might be a way out if the top end stuff is good. A wrecker is worth a try. for an engine.
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Ok thanks
David S said:
It's probably best to find a good running replacement from another C5 or 407. C5 will be easier because you will avoid any detail differences in fixings and holes for dressing the block. Have a look at the Youtube videos by the German who has rebuilt a few of these in LandRovers. It might help you decide how to attack it.
The block and pistons are listed as an assembly by Citroen so not intended to be repaired.
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thanks for your reply and insight
into these motors .
Are the later 3 litre motors the same as the 2.7 . Or just stick to the 2.7 litre Iam assuming differences in wiring .
Thanks Ben
 
You might confuse the engine management system if you started with a 3.0 block. There will be more used 2.7s around anyway. It's a large job even for a technician who is familiar with the model. You'd probably do well to check the timing and try a leakdown test via the glowplug ports before tearing it apart. Check the cam pulley bolts are still tight.


1712707276950.png
 
David S said:
You might confuse the engine management system if you started with a 3.0 block. There will be more used 2.7s around anyway. It's a large job even for a technician who is familiar with the model. You'd probably do well to check the timing and try a leakdown test via the glowplug ports before tearing it apart. Check the cam pulley bolts are still tight.


View attachment 239713
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Ok thanks
 
David S said:
You might confuse the engine management system if you started with a 3.0 block. There will be more used 2.7s around anyway. It's a large job even for a technician who is familiar with the model. You'd probably do well to check the timing and try a leakdown test via the glowplug ports before tearing it apart. Check the cam pulley bolts are still tight.


View attachment 239713
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We are now thinking the oil pump failed , the car still has coolant in the radiator
 
This guy goes into the engine and it's possible faults ...
 
Johno1 said:
Would a warning light illuminate if this happens?

Just wondering as I have a late version of this engine.
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Oil and coolant temp was fine ,the motor was noisy for about 5 minutes , showed low oil pressure at idle . Stopped for 15 minutes
Restarted car and then it just stopped within a couple of minutes of driving .
 
doesnt sound like broken oil pump, the low oil pressure means the pump is still working, sounds to me like a run bearing someplace causing the noise and oil to leak out causing the low pressure. Was the noise a loud tap tap, maybe bottom end, or a not so noisy tap from top end ?
 
petermelb said:
doesnt sound like broken oil pump, the low oil pressure means the pump is still working, sounds to me like a run bearing someplace causing the noise and oil to leak out causing the low pressure. Was the noise a loud tap tap, maybe bottom end, or a not so noisy tap from top end ?
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Hi thanks for the reply , the noise seemed to be the top end initially.
Then it was making a lot of rattly noise really awful sounding top and more so the bottom .
 
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