Citroen c5 x7 2.7hdi

ben stellini

Member
Tadpole
Tadpole
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
42
Location
broken hill
Hi all driving on the highway motor has started to become noisier , with a chugging sound and low oil pressure at idle, noticed noise for 5 minutes .
 
Oh Dear, sounds like you have had the dreaded coolant manifold failure. We all hope your engine has survived this event.

Regards, Ken
 
That's fairly common unfortunately. There could be other leaks (Coolant pump, radiator, hoses etc,) but it is commonly the thermostat housing in the valley falling apart where the individual plastic bits are fused together and/or the plastic outlet pipe down low at the front failing in a similar manner. Neither is particularly expensive to replace, but there's a fair amount of work to fit them. They generally don't last more than several years so they are almost service items. Unfortunately, you cant buy aluminium versions as you could for some RWD models using this engine - something like a 2.7HDi Jaguar.
 
Oh Dear, sounds like you have had the dreaded coolant manifold failure. We all hope your engine has survived this event.

Regards, Ken
Hi thanks for your he reply , the car is a a Citroen dealer in Wagga Wagga , they said it went into limp mode and shutdown, waiting on a diagnosis if the motor is ok . The thermostat housing in the valley was done just before I bought the car so 3 years ago . I think it’s the coolant inlet at the he front of the motor, I bought the new part a month ago with plans to replace soon .
 
You may recall the discussion on a 407 V6 from last year and some related Youtube videos by a German guy fixing LandRovers with this engine that point out some design compromises and weaknesses in the basic unit. Generally, it's OK in the C5/C6/407 and doesn't work as hard as it would in a LandRover or maybe some Fords/Jaguars. The thermostat housing, that coolant outlet and a few other peripheral items can let it down though. You do have to remember that the youngest example of this engine would be from 2010, so now pushing 14 years old and many are older and have covered quite high kms. Aside from cooking them and needing to replace head gaskets, perhaps even the heads, probably the most expensive failures arise when the fuel pump internals begin to wear and the tiny particles that are shed reach all the injectors. Stag V8 has been shown by a few to not be as bad as made out when everything is properly assembled and maintained, but of course that doesn't always happen in real world production and service environments.
 
You may recall the discussion on a 407 V6 from last year and some related Youtube videos by a German guy fixing LandRovers with this engine that point out some design compromises and weaknesses in the basic unit. Generally, it's OK in the C5/C6/407 and doesn't work as hard as it would in a LandRover or maybe some Fords/Jaguars. The thermostat housing, that coolant outlet and a few other peripheral items can let it down though. You do have to remember that the youngest example of this engine would be from 2010, so now pushing 14 years old and many are older and have covered quite high kms. Aside from cooking them and needing to replace head gaskets, perhaps even the heads, probably the most expensive failures arise when the fuel pump internals begin to wear and the tiny particles that are shed reach all the injectors. Stag V8 has been shown by a few to not be as bad as made out when everything is properly assembled and maintained, but of course that doesn't always happen in real world production and service environments.
Thanks for the info , the car won’t attempt to start , waiting for the dealer to get back to find out why.
 
Thanks for the info , the car won’t attempt to start , waiting for the dealer to get back to find out why.
Ok nothing has happened with the car IE no diagnosis. There is no electrical power to anything , battery is good , where do I look first or is something fried .
C5 x7 2.7 Hdi .
 
Engine bay slave / fuse box. Check for battery voltage where the cable bolts on and then the maxi-fuses underneath it. Refer the handbook. Some circuits should have power even with the ignition off. Once it goes to sleep and into economy mode, a lot of other circuits are not supplied until you restart it.
 
Try and track the power from the battery. Maybe the maxifuse in series with the battery positive has blown or the return monitoring link in the negative lead has become open circuit.

Cheers, Ken
 
Try and track the power from the battery. Maybe the maxifuse in series with the battery positive has blown or the return monitoring link in the negative lead has become open circuit.

Cheers, Ken
Hi ken yep 150 amp maxi fuse blown found it in 20 minutes this morning with a multimeter . Picked up the car from mildura yesterday . Raa delivered the car from Wagga to mildura after 2 months I gave up on the Citroen dealer there , the service dept could not get electrical power . I think they were having me on . And to add insult they broke one of the connections to the fuel filter.
 
Hi ken yep 150 amp maxi fuse blown found it in 20 minutes this morning with a multimeter . Picked up the car from mildura yesterday . Raa delivered the car from Wagga to mildura after 2 months I gave up on the Citroen dealer there , the service dept could not get electrical power . I think they were having me on . And to add insult they broke one of the connections to the fuel filter.
The photo is to large to upload thanks for your reply’s .
Next step to find a replacement outlet hose it goes into a 3 way joiner any help , would be great .
 
Fuel filter hose repaired,I have power . reset the BSI everything seems to work, turn the ignition key and nothing , can’t hear anything .
Checked fuses all look ok
Iam I missing anything
 
Have you blown fuse F8 for the starter? Change it from 20A to 25A. Does the starter even click?
 
See if you have any voltage at the starter's solenoid when you try to crank it. Is the engine earth good?
Are you able to short the solenoid to make it crank? If the engine was locked up I would expect you'd still get a 'click'.
 
Check the engine turns ok by trying to turn the engine by the flywheel. Check you have 12 volts coming down the thick 12 volt lead to the solenoid. Check there is close to zero ohms between the thick lead going into starter motor from the solenoid to the negative battery terminal to make sure the brushes onto the rotor are OK, and that there is 10 to 100 ohms resistance to the negative battery terminal from the solenoid trigger terminal to the negative battery terminal for the hold in coil of the solenoid.

Make sure the battery is charged and around 13 volts or the ECUs will not engage the relay that sends power to the solenoid.

Check if you can hear a click in the BSM and get power down the trigger lead to the solenoid. If any of the above resistance checks fail, there is a problem with the starter motor.

Cheers, Ken
 
Check the engine turns ok by trying to turn the engine by the flywheel. Check you have 12 volts coming down the thick 12 volt lead to the solenoid. Check there is close to zero ohms between the thick lead going into starter motor from the solenoid to the negative battery terminal to make sure the brushes onto the rotor are OK, and that there is 10 to 100 ohms resistance to the negative battery terminal from the solenoid trigger terminal to the negative battery terminal for the hold in coil of the solenoid.

Make sure the battery is charged and around 13 volts or the ECUs will not engage the relay that sends power to the solenoid.

Check if you can hear a click in the BSM and get power down the trigger lead to the solenoid. If any of the above resistance checks fail, there is a problem with the starter motor.

Cheers, Ken
Thanks ken the battery is charged I will have a look at the other things you have mentioned.
See if you have any voltage at the starter's solenoid when you try to crank it. Is the engine earth good?
Are you able to short the solenoid to make it crank? If the engine was locked up I would expect you'd still get a 'click'.
Thanks david I will investigate
 
Check the engine turns ok by trying to turn the engine by the flywheel. Check you have 12 volts coming down the thick 12 volt lead to the solenoid. Check there is close to zero ohms between the thick lead going into starter motor from the solenoid to the negative battery terminal to make sure the brushes onto the rotor are OK, and that there is 10 to 100 ohms resistance to the negative battery terminal from the solenoid trigger terminal to the negative battery terminal for the hold in coil of the solenoid.

Make sure the battery is charged and around 13 volts or the ECUs will not engage the relay that sends power to the solenoid.

Check if you can hear a click in the BSM and get power down the trigger lead to the solenoid. If any of the above resistance checks fail, there is a problem with the starter motor.

Cheers, Ken
The car is in park , but thinks it’s in drive as per dash info .
I did damage the white detent button with the ball bearing on top. Thought it was the lever to get it out of park.
I don’t see a electrical connection. Need to sort this before looking at other things
 
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