Changed oil but not the filter, is it ok?

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rc968

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Fellow Frogger
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Aug 10, 2003
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I changed the oil on my Clio today (after finally got the right tool), however the oil filter was too tight for me to remove, bent my cheap filter tool due to odd angle (and burnt myself in the process, engine still too warm to touch). So I left the filter alone.

I know it's not the best practice but it won't do any harm, would it? The filter is 5000km old (fitted at last service), and normal service interval is 10,000km. So it can last another 5,000k till next service?
 
I am using Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 which I believe is of suitable grade and weight for the car. The oil filter is rather small and would be half full as it is sitting horizontally. I understand that it would still have old oil in there, but doesn't everytime we change oil there would still be some left in the engine somewhere? In theory shouldn't most modern oil of same grade (SJ/A3 etc)are "compatible" and can be mixed?

[ps. not trying to argue here, apologize if I sounded like it]
 
If you are going to leave it as it is now, you should try to have a look at the filter currently on the car. Its very easy with a tool to bend the sides and render them less effective, or even puncture one (I assume you didnt do this as you would have noticed oil at a later stage on the ground after starting it).

You can change the filter after the oil, but of course you will make a bit of a mess and will still have the old oil mixed in with the new throughout the engine. Check the oil level if you do this!

Personally.. I change both. The filter costs bugger all for an original one. Yes they can be a bit tight, if you need to get a new tool then try one with the rubber or material straps. They tend to work better imho.

At least if you have a tool that wont break, and have a spare filter, and you turn the filter in the right direction then it doesnt matter if you destroy it or bend it to get it off really.. as long as you dont damage anything else in the process and are sure you can get the new on back on.

<small>[ 06 September 2003, 05:36 PM: Message edited by: Craig ]</small>
 
Rc, i agree with changing the oil filter.
Once you get a new filter, try Punching a flat blade screwdriver through it to get it out. Messy but works.
Also get a small dab of good oil and lube the rubber o-rings on the new filter before replacing it.
I know of some very picky race car mechs, who go to great lengths to do an oil change. They remove all the oil, remove the oil sump and filter (which is usually remote mounted) and low-pressure flush from the top down to get as much of the old oil out.
New filter and a inspected/cleaned sump go back on with a new gasket... they continue by checking how much material/metal is in the old oil.. fussy buggers. - chris
 
Sounds like I will be changing the filter asap.

I really would have changed the filter (have a new spare already), just that I don't have a garage and was doing it on the road side, and it was late (shops closed) and getting dark. And I really needed the car that night and the morning after. Didn't know (and didn't think of) the punch-hole-with-screwdriver trick.

I was reluctant because I didn't want to waste $50 worth of oil...hoping to get away with it...

Ps. wow, those fussy race car mechs...the most I have heard is to renew oil (or filter as well), run the engine to "flush" old oil, drain, then fill with new oil again and renew filter.

<small>[ 07 September 2003, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: rc968 ]</small>
 
the best tool for the job is a 3 legged filter remover!!! you can then put a extension and a ratchet on it and go for it!!!! you can by them from any auto shop, and cost around 20 bucks, and will last forever....
as well we dont use oil under 10w50 synthetic, you dont need it any thiner!!! just a waste of money... :)
regards paul.
 
rc, can I give you a hint? Don't tighten the new filter very tight at all. They don't need to be very tight - see the instructions on the filter and follow them to the letter (eg. "2/3 turn once washer contacts"). The filter might seem too loose to the uninitiated, but they don't come undone, and you'll be able to get it off next time with your hands. The springiness in the thick flexible rubber seal acts like a spring washer anyway.

Cheers

Stuey
 
depeche mode:
as well we dont use oil under 10w50 synthetic, you dont need it any thiner!!! just a waste of money... :)
regards paul.
Click to expand...
Hi Paul could you expend a bit on this?? I would like to hear your side of story. From what I read on Audi forums they tend to go on the thinner side. (0W40 etc).

I picked 5W40 because my car manuals etc suggest a range from 5W30 (European climate?) to 15W50 (Reno Aussie service booklet). And synthetic becuase I sometimes push it hard and synthetics gives me peace of mind as it does not break down as much under heat/load.

Stuey:
Don't tighten the new filter very tight at all. They don't need to be very tight - see the instructions on the filter and follow them to the letter.
Click to expand...
Totally agree. That's what I have always done and had trouble the next time getting it off by hand. Don't know why the mech at service dept did it so tight anyway....
(They even over filled the crankcase. I pumped out about 0.8L of oil...)
 
depeche mode:

as well we dont use oil under 10w50 synthetic, you dont need it any thiner!!! just a waste of money... :)
regards paul.
Click to expand...
Sounds odd. Even my old Renault 16 was designed for 20w40 oil - very thin by the standards of the day.

I think you should stick with a grade that is recommended in the official Renault Clio handbook. For modern engines with tight manufacturing tollerances, using oils that are too thick will restrict oil flow, increase friction, reduce cleaning action, and possibly lead to buildup of gunk in low-flow areas. The restricted flow also has detrimental consequences with regards to the lubrication and cooling of various items. Also, a thicker oil will take longer to reach the top of the motor when starting, and will be too thick during the critical warmup phase - which is when most engine wear takes place. If you are doing mostly short trips, I would be even more inclined to err on the side of thin rather than thick.

depeche mode,

I'm interested to know on what information your recommendation of 10w50 is based? I'm willing to stand corrected!
 
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