C2 / C3 is it really necessary for petrols

[Andy's first frenchie]

I always use synthetic 0W or 5W weights regardless of standard on my previous/current cars, but I feel 30 is a tad too thin for engines nearing 200,000km.
My preferred rating is 0W-40 from Penrite.
So do low/mid ash lubricants really make a difference?
I'll continue to use them if the consensus is yes, besides the fact I've stockpiled about 20L of C2 anyways.

Cheers

Andy.

 

[Whippet]

Hi.

I consider that engine oils are massively over analysed and over hyped.

Just use what the manufacturer recommends; I don't consider that distance driven would change the recommendation.

My own thoughts: The 0W is for alpine starting temperatures down to minus 35C, I note that you live in Brisbane and doubt you will ever get much below zero, so I would be comfortable with a 5W-30 multigrade viscosity.

If your engine has an exhaust catalytic converter then you should be using low ash oils. So if your stockpile of 20Lt meets these criteria, then use it with confidence.

PS: I also use Penrite oils.

Cheers.

 

[Andy's first frenchie]

I realise that Winter grade really comes into play in very cold climes, but I'm of the mode of thinking that every little bit helps and since there's no price difference between 0W and 5W grades I'll just go with 0.

I AM going to use up my hoard of C2, just thinking well ahead of time.

I agree, to an extent, with the over-analysed and certainly over-hype of certain brands like Royal Purple, but I do have an opinion based on direct experience with Valvoline; long before I knew as much about cars and oils, I went with brands I've heard of which were Valvoline, Shell, and Mobil.
I used Valvoline three times (always mid or top shelf types) and each time they failed in cold start conditions, as even within 300km, rocker/lifter noise became prevalent. Never used it again. Been using Castrol for many years and switched to Penrite about 10years ago.

 

[AlexB]

If your engine has an exhaust catalytic converter then you should be using low ash oils.

The low ash oils I understood were designed to increase the life of the particle filter, ie capturing diesel soot, in addition to the low sulpher diesel fuels needed to pass Euro4 and 5 (which the aussie refineries delayed introducing until they were forced to do so). Low ash oils then appear to get mandated for everything so people couldn't put the cheaper wrong oil in thier diesel. The petrol catalytic converter requires low sulpher unleaded, it's not affected much (as far as I know) by the choice of oils.
Attached is a zip file containing the 2006 and 2103 Peugeot Ingedients bulletins, which show 0W/40 to be -45DegC to +50degC and the criteria they use for the recomended oils sticker they put under the bonnet which vary for the same vehicle depending on where it gets sold.

 

[seasink]

This subject came up a few years ago. My understanding is that a dealer TSB advised low ash oils, ie C2, Quartz Ineo, in the EP turbo engines. It was to minimise oil ash deposits in the intake.

I have done so ever since.

 

[jaahn]

Hi
I believe there are several things to look at here. And I do believe oils are over speced and they are conning us to make money on sales !!

First, as said the low ash oils are real if the car has a catalyst as it clogs them up and diesel PFs too. That 'ash' will end up anywhere the oil is evaporated or burnt off.

Secondly the manufacturers strive for low fuel consumption and hence low emissions and thin oils achieve this with reduced drag. Low temperature operation is only one aspect. Particularly in city low power situations. So much work is done to reduce any detrimental effects of the thinness by improving the quality of additives and base stock.

Thirdly there is the other side of the use, high power high temp situations where the thicker oils helps to prevent wear and maintain oil films. Again there is work done to assure this works satisfactorily for normal use ?? Possibly if you use your engine regularly like this you might need a thicker better oil. In the old days a quality diesel oil was often a HD alternative suggested.
Jaahn
PS Back 30+ years ago my performance oil was Mobile1 5W-50. It was not too expensive and was recommended "for any engine". It would keep lifters quiet and had double the oil life recommendation too. It was very effective for old high milage engines that were using oil also. But then it shot up in price and I stopped driving so hard I guess.

 

[Whippet]

The low ash oils I understood were designed to increase the life of the particle filter, ie capturing diesel soot, in addition to the low sulpher diesel fuels needed to pass Euro4 and 5 (which the aussie refineries delayed introducing until they were forced to do so). Low ash oils then appear to get mandated for everything so people couldn't put the cheaper wrong oil in thier diesel. The petrol catalytic converter requires low sulpher unleaded, it's not affected much (as far as I know) by the choice of oils.
Attached is a zip file containing the 2006 and 2103 Peugeot Ingedients bulletins, which show 0W/40 to be -45DegC to +50degC and the criteria they use for the recomended oils sticker they put under the bonnet which vary for the same vehicle depending on where it gets sold.

Hi.

Interesting information in the bulletins; and I concur with your comments.

The documents indicate that viscosity "must be chosen in line with the climatic zone of the country of use", in Brisbane you could select climate zone "D" which would be 15W-30 which has a cold start of minus 17C to an operating temperature in an ambient of +45C.

The 0W correlates to minus 45C, hence we don't experience the low alpine temperatures in Australia like they do in Europe. Based on the information below, one could argue that in Australia we don't need 0W, 5W, or 10W cold start viscosities.

Cheers.

 

[SLC206]

I don't think Peugeot is particularly interested in the winter temperature rating when specifying this oil for the EP engine.

They specify this oil for the variable inlet and exhaust systems fitted (ie. viscosity rating), and the direct injection issues this engine has with the valves coking up (ie. particulates/pollution control).

Originally, the Total oils 5W30 INEO ECS was specified for this engine, then 0W30 INEO First (briefly), and now 5W30 INEO HTC oil for "hot" countries like Australia.

There are other manufacturers that insist on 0W20 oil in their engines for Australia.

 

[Nom]

This subject came up a few years ago. My understanding is that a dealer TSB advised low ash oils, ie C2, Quartz Ineo, in the EP turbo engines. It was to minimise oil ash deposits in the intake.

I have done so ever since.

Yes this is my understanding too - use a Low SAPS oil (low ash) to lessen the carbon buildup in the intake.

There's a Castrol EDGE LL (long life) that meets the low SAPS needs and I think Penrite C3 too ?