Bought a small MIG Welder.

Fordman

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Got a few little jobs coming up involving 1.6mm steel tube, and thought it's time for a MIG - I've got an old (but good) stick welder, but thin tube is not the place (for me) to use it :rolleyes: :rolleyes: .
Looked into a bit, noting pros and cons of Gas vs Gasless, and the ability to weld other metals, eg, aluminium. I usually get something of reasonable quality and hope it serves me well. Interestingly, on this AF forum, the only discussions were around 2005, so I guess things have changed since then. Firstly there was quite a jump in price to get one to weld aluminium, and I thought, never done it before and really no intention, so give that a miss. Then I thought what about Gas/Gasless, and not wanting to bother with gas bottles unless I really had to, I've bought one that has both, try the gasless and if it's no good, can always go for gas. I have used MIG before, about 50 years ago, using a professional, quite large machine, so have a slight memory of how it operates.

So I've bought a Unimig Viper 120 Kit, runs off 10amp AC and is both gas & gasless. Total Tools (and same elsewhere) - $319, $20 more than the basic welder. The "kit" contains a good helmet, gloves, and a starter tool kit containing spare nozzle ends and decent welding pliers, good value. The welder comes with a roll of 0.8mm gasless wire. The last time I saw gasless wire, it was like a very fine stick welding rod, with a grey flux coating - not any more, the wire still looks shiny silver colour, must be very fine layer of flux, or it is in the core? Also I was amazed at the small size of welding machines now, really easy to carry around.

I actually did read the instructions, set it up and had a go. My one small beef with it is that it has a wire dia selector which defaults back to 0.9mm (the max size) when turned off, so although I had set it to 0.8 previously, it reverted to 0.9 when I went to use it, and maybe that gave a bit more current because I did burn a hole pretty quickly on my test piece. Also I probably had it set to 6mm metal thickness, I think the dial (they call the Synergic dial) is direct reading of material thickness, I know that NOW. But after a quick practice, and realising I needed to steady my right hand with my left hand, I got a pretty good result, for me. The raw weld photo below is basically after 5 minutes of practice, it has only been wire brushed, there is virtually no slag build-up. Also you can see I am welding over a slight gap, up to 1mm, and calling on past experience, I tended to do it in short bursts of spot welding letting it cool for a few seconds before continuing. I think it will be quite smooth on a continuous run without a gap to worry about.

Anyway, at this stage it performed better than expected with gasless wire, but the connection is there for gas if required later. I think the gasless process has been improved since comments in this forum in 2005 claimed that gasless was pretty rubbish.

So this may be helpful to anyone looking for a reasonable DIY MIG welder, and feel free to make any comments in this thread.

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Just touched up a bit on the bench grinder before painting.
 
gasless works fine, you just get more splatter and messier looking weld. Careful of the toxic fumes. Gasless is only really bad when you get down to thin exhaust/car panel sized panels. Make sure you have reversed the palarity for the gasless wire.

Get yourself a bottle if you find the funds, these days there is no rental, so its just brilliant ( I'd go bunnings if possible just because they are always open if you need to swap a bottle). Also, buy a self dimming helmet, it'll make everything so much easier!
 
gasless works fine, you just get more splatter and messier looking weld. Careful of the toxic fumes. Gasless is only really bad when you get down to thin exhaust/car panel sized panels. Make sure you have reversed the palarity for the gasless wire.

Get yourself a bottle if you find the funds, these days there is no rental, so its just brilliant ( I'd go bunnings if possible just because they are always open if you need to swap a bottle). Also, buy a self dimming helmet, it'll make everything so much easier!
Yes, the helmet included is a very comfortable fitting, self-dimming unit, magic. I am actually quite happy with the gasless finish, any spatter just wire brushed away, I think they have really improved the gasless wire and process. I would need to get new wire if I use gas, which I may do later, and yes, I noted the reversal of polarity for gas/gasless. Clever stuff.
 
Thats pretty good value for money Chris and is perfectly fine for the jobs you are planning to use it on.

I have a WIA 150 mig welder that I have a size "D" bottle of argoshield. I bought my welder about 28 years ago at about 4 times what you paid for yours. Mine also has a large transformer in it and is very heavy.

I bought my "D" size bottle from a local store. The company that makes the bottles is Speedgas https://www.speedgas.com.au/ They have resellers around Australia to which Total Tools is one of them so you can get a bottle of gas from where you bought your welder.
 
Got a few little jobs coming up involving 1.6mm steel tube, and thought it's time for a MIG - I've got an old (but good) stick welder, but thin tube is not the place (for me) to use it :rolleyes: :rolleyes: .
Looked into a bit, noting pros and cons of Gas vs Gasless, and the ability to weld other metals, eg, aluminium. I usually get something of reasonable quality and hope it serves me well. Interestingly, on this AF forum, the only discussions were around 2005, so I guess things have changed since then. Firstly there was quite a jump in price to get one to weld aluminium, and I thought, never done it before and really no intention, so give that a miss. Then I thought what about Gas/Gasless, and not wanting to bother with gas bottles unless I really had to, I've bought one that has both, try the gasless and if it's no good, can always go for gas. I have used MIG before, about 50 years ago, using a professional, quite large machine, so have a slight memory of how it operates.

So I've bought a Unimig Viper 120 Kit, runs off 10amp AC and is both gas & gasless. Total Tools (and same elsewhere) - $319, $20 more than the basic welder. The "kit" contains a good helmet, gloves, and a starter tool kit containing spare nozzle ends and decent welding pliers, good value. The welder comes with a roll of 0.8mm gasless wire. The last time I saw gasless wire, it was like a very fine stick welding rod, with a grey flux coating - not any more, the wire still looks shiny silver colour, must be very fine layer of flux, or it is in the core? Also I was amazed at the small size of welding machines now, really easy to carry around.

I actually did read the instructions, set it up and had a go. My one small beef with it is that it has a wire dia selector which defaults back to 0.9mm (the max size) when turned off, so although I had set it to 0.8 previously, it reverted to 0.9 when I went to use it, and maybe that gave a bit more current because I did burn a hole pretty quickly on my test piece. Also I probably had it set to 6mm metal thickness, I think the dial (they call the Synergic dial) is direct reading of material thickness, I know that NOW. But after a quick practice, and realising I needed to steady my right hand with my left hand, I got a pretty good result, for me. The raw weld photo below is basically after 5 minutes of practice, it has only been wire brushed, there is virtually no slag build-up. Also you can see I am welding over a slight gap, up to 1mm, and calling on past experience, I tended to do it in short bursts of spot welding letting it cool for a few seconds before continuing. I think it will be quite smooth on a continuous run without a gap to worry about.

Anyway, at this stage it performed better than expected with gasless wire, but the connection is there for gas if required later. I think the gasless process has been improved since comments in this forum in 2005 claimed that gasless was pretty rubbish.

So this may be helpful to anyone looking for a reasonable DIY MIG welder, and feel free to make any comments in this thread.

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Just touched up a bit on the bench grinder before painting.
And it's mobile! Come to Mandurah Fordman. I have a job for you. :)
 
Bought a TIG welder/plasma cutter beginning of COVID, from these guys, but haven't got around to using/unpacking it yet. Still up in the roof.
Chis posting may get me motivated to get into it, shortly.
 
Bought a TIG welder/plasma cutter beginning of COVID, from these guys, but haven't got around to using/unpacking it yet. Still up in the roof.
Chis posting may get me motivated to get into it, shortly.

I've never tried TIG welding, I'm keen to hear how you go. Is it scratch start, or did you get a foot pedal? How do you keep the tungsten clean when you have to scratch start :confused:
 
I've never tried TIG welding, I'm keen to hear how you go. Is it scratch start, or did you get a foot pedal? How do you keep the tungsten clean when you have to scratch start :confused:
All the ones I have used have a little button on the hand piece to start the arc.

Just don't dip the tungsten in the molten pool and it stays clean.
 
I've a buddy sheet metal guy who will show me the ropes when he's not too busy & says it's a good unit. When will that be?
 
Irrespective of which MIG was purchased, or its limitations or otherwise, the important thing is that you have one!
Honestly, it changes the garage world when you can cut bits of metal and weld them together. Only this weekend I made this height extensions for car ramps. Yes, I am hack who just makes things functional and not pretty, but is jsut SOOO useful.

ramps 2.jpg
 
Ando, I humbly suggest that your elevated car ramp will slide across the floor the instant you attempt to drive on it. Another functional nor pretty fix for that would be to drill two holes in the floor with the express purpose of inserting a screw driver in front of each ramp to address the sliding issue. You're welcome!
 
Ando, I humbly suggest that your elevated car ramp will slide across the floor the instant you attempt to drive on it. Another functional nor pretty fix for that would be to drill two holes in the floor with the express purpose of inserting a screw driver in front of each ramp to address the sliding issue. You're welcome!
Or you could screw some strips of bicycle tyre to the bottom of them. I know where you can get some for cheap.😉
 
My Dad was an old school mechanic. Oxy weld, stick weld, braze, silver solder, he was good at them all.
He bought a gasless MIG in the late '90s when he retired (to save renting oxy bottles) and couldn't get it to weld for shit.🤷‍♂️

I've got a brand new in the box CIG combination stick/MIG/TIG welder that all the kids chipped in and bought me for Xmas about 5 years ago.😑
My oldest lad keeps asking me if I've used it yet.
I keep saying my old stick welder's still going strong.
He says "you're hopeless".🤣
My old welder's a fixed amperage CIG Easywelder that I bought at Target around 35 years ago. I replaced the leads on it once, otherwise it hasn't missed a beat.

My "spare" backup welder is one of these.🤣

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Oh, ye, of so little faith...

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Excellent, i've never liked or used those ramps. Just for my piece of mind, can you add some cross bracing to the ramp. I'm amazed they don't collapse in use as there is nothing stopping them twisting and collapsing. All you need to stop them pushing around the floor is a length of seatbelt webbing run tied to the top of them running down the length of the ramp.

I don't understand how anyone gets anything done without a welder ... and compressor ....
 
Those Stanfred ramps are so common I think we will have to accept that they don't collapse under the rated load.

You can easily stop them sliding by fixing heavy rubber (eg pieces of tyre tread) to the leading floor rail. Bolt or screw. Stanfred sell a similar device to go with the ramps.

The low overhang on modern cars, Cits in particular can catch on ramps because of the gradient. The easy fix is a pair of 50mm thick planks (eg joist offcuts) in front of the ramps. The extra road clearance does the trick and it works when extended ramps won't.

It's the approach angle that catches the new cars,
 
He bought a gasless MIG in the late '90s when he retired (to save renting oxy bottles) and couldn't get it to weld for shit.🤷‍♂️

My old welder's a fixed amperage CIG Easywelder that I bought at Target around 35 years ago. I replaced the leads on it once, otherwise it hasn't missed a beat.

My "spare" backup welder is one of these.🤣

On the other hand, my "spare" backup welder is now one of these: :)
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1980 model - adjustable amps (fancy:D) - and like yours, updated leads and handpiece a few years ago.

Not quite "spare" - it's a good machine, but from here on only for 4-5mm thickness plus, otherwise it will be the new MIG.

It is my guess/experience that gasless MIG has come on a little since the 90's - worth giving it a go?

BTW, I've looked into option of gas MIG on my new UNIMIG, approx $80 for the gauges/regulator & samish for a gas bottle, so nah not at this stage. Maybe if a job arose needing better aesthetics, can always be added.
 
Excellent, i've never liked or used those ramps. Just for my piece of mind, can you add some cross bracing to the ramp. I'm amazed they don't collapse in use as there is nothing stopping them twisting and collapsing. All you need to stop them pushing around the floor is a length of seatbelt webbing run tied to the top of them running down the length of the ramp.
The ramp section forms the triangulation so this braces the ramp so it does not collapse.
 
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