Almost Done

[ARCHRIVAL]

Well the weldings all done and the seat bolster spring is fixed and back in the seat with a big lump of set silicon in its middle to lessen the strain on a silver soldered repair now I just have to put it all back together . Is there a secret in re adjusting the leveling valve when its put back together , also is there anyone other than geoffrey from Chevron in WA that understands CX 's the bugger is on holidays for another 4 weeks and I need some advice and expertise before I tackle the under bonnet stuff ?
thanks

 

[DoubleChevron]

Gee's that's a nice looking Job you have done there

Underbonnet ?? A CX turbo is no more difficult than your bog standard CX ... The only real difference being a little less access to the starter motor, and 1 extra wire over to the knock sender. The rest is the same as all the others (more or less).

What exactly do you need help with ??

EDIT: BTW... Unless you moved the anti-roll bar clamp the height corrector should just bolt straight back on without any need for 'setup'. All the heigh adjustment is done ***ON RAMPS OR 4POST HOIST*** using the clamp on the anti-roll bar. It'll flatten you in the blink of an eye if you try adjusting it without supporting the car first.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[ARCHRIVAL]

thanks shane

i just need an educated eye run over the car to see if everything is where it should be and do a bit of brain picking . Have to strip back all the wiring and pipework away from front towers and crossmember behind the motor to get at all the seam rust and stop it from spreading , hopefully it is all only surface at the moment and does'nt need welding but there is so much shit in the road !

 

[DoubleChevron]

I wouldn't worry to much about that area. What I have noticed with cars from the UK is they are very 'clean' and corroded looking and rust badly.

Now the area you speak of behind the motor ... Give it a year or so of Aussie weather and oil changes and it'll be all nice 'n' oily/greasy like every other Aussie CX. ie: lots of nice rust protection in the from of leaked oil from oil changes/LHM/etc...

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

i just need an educated eye run over the car to see if everything is where it should be and do a bit of brain picking . Have to strip back all the wiring and pipework away from front towers and crossmember behind the motor to get at all the seam rust and stop it from spreading , hopefully it is all only surface at the moment and does'nt need welding but there is so much shit in the road !

Seem rust I hadn't fully read that, what do you mean by 'seem rust'.

I've had a good portion of my car to bits... There is rust, but none bad. We have the boot lid that I know is rusty behind the plastic trim, the bonnet front right point has a couple of minor (like pinhead) rust bubbles in the paint (that haven't got any worse in the last 6years).

Strangley the Air cleaner itself was rusty, I needed to weld metal into it... The only other rust I can find in the car is 1 small hole under each front headlight (salt must sit here). I suggest while your playing with your MIG you whip the headlights out and look under them.

My car might look like sh!t, but I didn't realise what my father meant when he said it took him 6months to find one as good as it He even bought it over a later Turbo II with a sunroof being offered by the same person (mine being a turbo I with no air-con or sunroof).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[ARCHRIVAL]

Thought It Was All Done

Well i thought that I had found all the rust BUT when I pulled of the passengers side skirts what did I find shit and the new roof lining was going so well at least its only small chunks and has not got inner reinforced sections well cut cut cut and weld weld weld :crazy:

 

[DoubleChevron]

Oh sh!t ...

There's my job for the weekend. Remove those plastic sill covers and make sure there's no rust behind them ...

They do rust behind the stainless covers on the Series I cars too :disappr: Bloody crazy pom's, who in there right mind covers there roads with salt destroying our precious cars :nownow:

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[smiffy1071]

hmmmm, I think while I have my turbo on blocks, I will whip the covers off to check what I have. I'm sending my car for welding to WESTON89 (who is a citroen enthusiast/specialist repairer) very soon, and If there is any rust in the door sills, now is the best time to find it. john s

 

[smiffy1071]

Oh sh!t ...

There's my job for the weekend. Remove those plastic sill covers and make sure there's no rust behind them ...

They do rust behind the stainless covers on the Series I cars too :disappr: Bloody crazy pom's, who in there right mind covers there roads with salt destroying our precious cars :nownow:

seeya,
Shane L.

The highways agency here in england are experimenting with new materials, to spread on roads in winter, which don't cause corrosion. I wish they would hurry up though! john s

 

[docchevron1472]

Hhhmmm, I think I'd rather not know!!!! Thankfully BX's dont appear to get eaten by tin worm anywhere near as well as CX's. I'm reminded of a man I knew that filled his sill's with concrete once the rot was well established, this looked very good untill the MOT tester tapped it with his hammer and most of the car fell into the pit!! :joker:

 

[smiffy1071]

Many years ago, my mum had an Austin 1300, (like a mini, but bigger) which was very rusty. My dad filled the front inner wings with concrete, then sold the car!! :banana:
john s

 

[docchevron1472]

Surely the best thing to do with an austin 1100/1300 would be to encase the entire car in concrete and throw it off a pier! :roflmao: Indeed any BLMC car of that era is probably worth less than its weight in concrete? :joker: Perhaps I'll go do some welding on that Wolsley 6 lurking on the drive way....... Or maybe I'll have a few pints instead :adrink: and wait for the car to rust away!!!