Aftermarket ECU Availability

flock

flock

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Messages
366
Location
Brisbane, Australia
I fluffed around too much to find that even aftermarket ECUs are having a shortage.

Haltech have discontinued a bunch of Elite ECUs and thus their range. Now there are big gaps between models.

Links are being snatched up in the US. Adaptronics are sold out. Obviously the more expensive Motec's are out there but they have a dinosaur licensing model so they are not even on my radar.

14point7 used to use high-temp automotive grade components for their O2 WBCs but have since changed their designs to meet demand.

Even assembled speeduino kits are hard to come by. Megasquirt is too expensive for what you get now compared to other current gen offerings.

I have to admit it is nice not having as many options now.
 
Yeah, elite 550 and 1000 are gone from the lineup. So if you want a knock sensor a 1500 is now minimum spend.

Haltech just got bought by an American company also, apparently Australian production to continue….for now.
 
I will need to introduce you two, closer in age to each other than you think.
 
You won't be able to fit Motec, Autronic or Emtron to an 8V as you don't have a cam position sensor. They're all sequential only. Not sure about Link. Haltech is probably still your best bet as they allow for multipoint or batch fire, in addition to wasted spark. Have you considered a 2nd hand Platinum Sport 1000? You can still buy the connectors and thus build a custom loom.
 
Dont know if its of any use to you but someone at Mt Tambourine has used Haltec ps1000 asking $700 on FB. I dont know the seller. He ran it on an Evo. Nil loom.
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I am all for old reliable tech to get things running, however. Looks like the pinout and connectors for the PS1000 matches the Elite 1000/1500? That warrants some consideration.

Thanks Peter for the heads up on those other ECUs. Adding cam trigger is a good challenge, I quite like Chez's solution with the 4G63 sensor. I guess at the end of the day the more complexity you build in - the more time and money is spent on tuning.

The end goal is to make the 8v lump as modern as possible and having enough spare I/O and functionality to run a future 16V sequentially if it ever blows up. I was originally looking at the Elite 1000.

Is the Elite's long term learning and engine protection even worth it for a mild high comp NA street engine?
 
I still run a PS1000 on my 205 and intend to swap it over to the Mi16, as I want the ability to run multipoint. ie I don't want to add a cam sensor, even though I can. The objective is to keep it looking oem, even though it isn't. I bought a brand new Autronic SM4 recently for a $1000 not long ago, but ended up selling it again as it doesn't suit the Mi16.

If you fitted a wideband controller to a PS1000/2000 it would keep it tuned. Keep in mind that most wideband controllers are CAN only now. The PS range needs a 0-5V output. I just fitted one to Parry's E6X.

The PS1000 has engine protection.

The Elite (and it's new software) is definitely superior, in that it has more functions. Just depends on your budget and wiring skills.
 
That PS1000 from Mt Tambo is now in my incompetent hands, after I neg'd him to $500. Apologies if you had your eyes on it for yourself Fivedoor. Otherwise thanks for the link.

Firing up ECU manager for the first time brings me back to logging into 90s protection relays on the Pentium 3 site laptop.

Further updates on the build thread. Cheers fellas.
 
Good work and good luck. If I had wanted it, I would have kept silent until after I picked it up.
 
What are you going to do about a harness? If you’re handy you could make it yourself. The flying loom has heaps of wires which you’ll probably never use. I’ve been buying wire and connectors from here recently. They seem ok.
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My Haltech has a harness with it. Callum gave it to me, so just need to move it on if someone wants a cheap ECU.
 
PeterT said:
What are you going to do about a harness? If you’re handy you could make it yourself. The flying loom has heaps of wires which you’ll probably never use. I’ve been buying wire and connectors from here recently. They seem ok.
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The flying loom from Haltech cost more than my ecu. I’ll make one, possibly 2.

What is your opinion of using other connectors between the sensor/output connectors and the Main.

E.g air temp sensor from the AFM Bosch plug - - Deutsch connector - ECU plug

Has anyone done this for staging purposes with reliability?
 
You can buy most of the connectors easily. I would use the correct connector for the sensor and limit the number of joints in the system if possible. Most are just Bosch injector connector anyway.

I buy them for Golebys or EFI Hardware or there is a place when you search Haltech on ebay that pops up in the search that has them as well.
 
I concur with Adrian. Don't add unnecessary joins. You can limit expenditure by keeping colours to a minimum. Haltech use many different colours, which does make identification easy. However, it's also expensive for a one-off loom. Stay with the basics, ie
+12V - red
GND - black
5V - orange
everything else - white
crank angle sensor - shielded twin core
 
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