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- Thread starter SAMI
- Start date
Are you really from syria?
To put it simply, an alternator needs a small amount of current before it can begin to generate electricity. An alternator (by name) generates AC (alternating current).
A dynamo is a "traditional" generator. They do not require electricity before they start generating electricity. They generate DC (direct current).
You won't find anything but alternators in cars built within the last 20-30 years. I'm not sure when dynamos/generators were phased out of the motorcar industry. The electricity generated by an alternator goes through a rectifier to change it to DC for storage in the battery and/or use by the car.
There's a bit more to it than that but there's a simple-ish explanation to begin with.
Just one more addition - a magneto is an alternator which puts out huge bursts of current through a distributor - they're used on aircraft etc
Derek.
A dynamo is a "traditional" generator. They do not require electricity before they start generating electricity. They generate DC (direct current).
You won't find anything but alternators in cars built within the last 20-30 years. I'm not sure when dynamos/generators were phased out of the motorcar industry. The electricity generated by an alternator goes through a rectifier to change it to DC for storage in the battery and/or use by the car.
There's a bit more to it than that but there's a simple-ish explanation to begin with.
Just one more addition - a magneto is an alternator which puts out huge bursts of current through a distributor - they're used on aircraft etc
Derek.
hehe mistareno
No, I'm a pilot - you learn these things at flying school
Aircraft Systems or something I'd say the subject was called.
Haven't flown for over 5 years, but that's life.
Derek
No, I'm a pilot - you learn these things at flying school
Aircraft Systems or something I'd say the subject was called.Haven't flown for over 5 years, but that's life.
Derek
generators output voltage varies with RPM. So at idle, old cas used to have there idiot light come on, due to lack of charge. Alternators have a flat output after 1440 (alt. rpm) so they charge at idle much better than a generator.
The generator or dynamo was phased out of Peugeots in 1968 in Australia.
Contrary to what's been written above, both alternators and generators do have current run to them to 'excite' them, or to function the electromagnets that enable them to produce power.
This, on the generator, is the wire that goes to the side, the small one. On the alternator it is also usually the smallest wire.
Of course, if there are permanent magnets built into the generator, there is no need for an exciter current. Bicycle generators are made with permanent magnets, for instance.
Contrary to what's been written above, both alternators and generators do have current run to them to 'excite' them, or to function the electromagnets that enable them to produce power.
This, on the generator, is the wire that goes to the side, the small one. On the alternator it is also usually the smallest wire.
Of course, if there are permanent magnets built into the generator, there is no need for an exciter current. Bicycle generators are made with permanent magnets, for instance.
Ray,
Thanks for that addition cheers!
I was of the impression that all generators had magnets so didn't require a current for the to come "online" (the term I seem to remember being applied?) or excite them. I guess I was wrong though.
Apparently my mother's Renault 10 had a generator.
Derek
Thanks for that addition cheers!
I was of the impression that all generators had magnets so didn't require a current for the to come "online" (the term I seem to remember being applied?) or excite them. I guess I was wrong though.
Apparently my mother's Renault 10 had a generator.
Derek
I was in an EA falcon travelling home from Byron Bay when the alternator packed it in. The electrics all just shat themselves and we had to hitch a ride to Sydney
was fun though head_ban But that's because it wasn't my car... lol wink
was fun though head_ban But that's because it wasn't my car... lol wink
Hey Sami is that 203 Turbo yours?That's amazing if so, i don't think the pug purists will like it too much but i do! cheers!
Nice 203 mate!!!!!
My 403 has a generator (dynamo) and at idle the ammeter sits on 0 unless the lights are on, when it show a discharge. My 404 has been fitted with an alternator, and the 403 will go the same way soon.
The reason an alternator charges at low revs is that they are geared up because they can spin faster than a generator without coming apart internally.
My 403 has a generator (dynamo) and at idle the ammeter sits on 0 unless the lights are on, when it show a discharge. My 404 has been fitted with an alternator, and the 403 will go the same way soon.
The reason an alternator charges at low revs is that they are geared up because they can spin faster than a generator without coming apart internally.
it has been my car for the last 11 year,purr-geot,...till last winter when i decided it is time to get some more performance(adding a turbo) of it's very very reliable engine(may be b-cause of it's 7:1 Cr!).
i use this car every day,,,traffic jam+highways,,it is so lovely to let some big-bodied small-engine modern cars eat your dust whip especially when the road is up whistle
i'v been driving 203s since 1984 (my first car was also a 203)and a lot of my familly members used to &do have pugs(304-404-504-405-106)....pugs are great...........
i use this car every day,,,traffic jam+highways,,it is so lovely to let some big-bodied small-engine modern cars eat your dust whip especially when the road is up whistle i'v been driving 203s since 1984 (my first car was also a 203)and a lot of my familly members used to &do have pugs(304-404-504-405-106)....pugs are great...........
Hi all,
We had a situation about 12 months ago involving an alternator. We were holidaying at Lake Conjola and the battery in the 504 started playing up. Had it checked by a bloke at Ulladulla who suggested a new one after load testing. He also checked the regulator and alternator. On the way back to Wodonga at Holbrook, we stopped for a break. The car wouldn't start. I plugged the multimeter onto a fuse under the dash and noticed the voltage had dropped to about 11V. We push started it and drove back to Wodonga. By the time we hit Albury it had dropped to about 9.2V. I had all electrical equipment off to conserve the battery. We got home and the voltage was down to about 7.5V. I didn't think it'd ever get that low and still power the ignition.
The alternator was stuffed so I got it rebuilt. For some reason the regulator was sensing the voltage was low (a possible voltage drop in the wiring loom?) thus causing the alternator to overcharge the battery (which had cooked our previous battery), it also probably overworked the alternator causing it to fail on the way back.
When we got home I ended up connecting the sense wire directly to the battery (+) terminal and connecting the power to the reg via a relay that is switched when the ingition is on. This seems to have fixed the problem as it is still working 15 months later. The voltmeter in the car still reads low even though the battery voltage is correct.
It was a tense trip back watching the multimeter and wondering if we were going to make it!
Cheers,
Ralph.
<small>[ 18 August 2003, 08:07 AM: Message edited by: Ralph ]</small>
We had a situation about 12 months ago involving an alternator. We were holidaying at Lake Conjola and the battery in the 504 started playing up. Had it checked by a bloke at Ulladulla who suggested a new one after load testing. He also checked the regulator and alternator. On the way back to Wodonga at Holbrook, we stopped for a break. The car wouldn't start. I plugged the multimeter onto a fuse under the dash and noticed the voltage had dropped to about 11V. We push started it and drove back to Wodonga. By the time we hit Albury it had dropped to about 9.2V. I had all electrical equipment off to conserve the battery. We got home and the voltage was down to about 7.5V. I didn't think it'd ever get that low and still power the ignition.
The alternator was stuffed so I got it rebuilt. For some reason the regulator was sensing the voltage was low (a possible voltage drop in the wiring loom?) thus causing the alternator to overcharge the battery (which had cooked our previous battery), it also probably overworked the alternator causing it to fail on the way back.
When we got home I ended up connecting the sense wire directly to the battery (+) terminal and connecting the power to the reg via a relay that is switched when the ingition is on. This seems to have fixed the problem as it is still working 15 months later. The voltmeter in the car still reads low even though the battery voltage is correct.
It was a tense trip back watching the multimeter and wondering if we were going to make it!
Cheers,
Ralph.
<small>[ 18 August 2003, 08:07 AM: Message edited by: Ralph ]</small>