72 r12 restoration and upgrade

A bit of work done over this Christmas break. Front gaurds prepped and painted.
I seem to never accomplish this in an organised fashion as these should have been painted when I did all the other panels.

Bitumen type coating on inside of gaurds and in front wheel arch
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Stripped and body filler where I welded up holes for the badges
View attachment 233754guide coating View attachment 233755happy with the shapeView attachment 233756
Paint. It's impossible to avoid all contaminats when painting in an open carport. Some small fleck of dust and a bug hopefully will sand out
View attachment 233757chasing electrical gremlins getting all the lights working again.mostly problems due to bad earth's from painting and a stuck flasher can

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Oil pressure, wideband and coolant temp
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Spun up a new handle for the handbrake on my friends wood lathe to replace the broken plastic one
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I am missing this rear window corner chrome peice if anyone knows where I can find one
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I'll have a look on my doner cars and see.
 
Got the club registration renewed and went for a longer test run outside of my local area so to not annoy the neighbours.
Car is looking nice but still lots to do.

During my driving the fuel pump failed either due to;
1. Being the cheapest fuel pump eBay sells.
2. Not being the appropriate style pump for to be dead headed. It may have burnt itself out by working to hard when not being required to pump fuel. I have not wired in a pressure switch or anything.
3. Being mounted in the engine bay might be too much heat for it to handle.

A couple of taps got it going, but I don't want to be left stranded later on. Looking at some other threads there seems to be some better quality options. What have others found to be a reliable setup?

Attached pics of the pump and filter/reg set at 2.5/3psi



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Got the club registration renewed and went for a longer test run outside of my local area so to not annoy the neighbours.
Car is looking nice but still lots to do.

During my driving the fuel pump failed either due to;
1. Being the cheapest fuel pump eBay sells.
2. Not being the appropriate style pump for to be dead headed. It may have burnt itself out by working to hard when not being required to pump fuel. I have not wired in a pressure switch or anything.
3. Being mounted in the engine bay might be too much heat for it to handle.

A couple of taps got it going, but I don't want to be left stranded later on. Looking at some other threads there seems to be some better quality options. What have others found to be a reliable setup?

Attached pics of the pump and filter/reg set at 2.5/3psi



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Hi Rory

That is a neat R12 an glad to see you have it running (y)

Electric fuel pumps are best situated close to the tank, all the electric fuel pumps I have dealt with have all pumped flat out until the carbie float bowl is full, then they slow down and only pumping when the float bowl drops in level.
 
I'd put the fuel filter on the suction side, personally.

We ran 1.4 R12s for many years with standard mechanical fuel pumps. Never a problem. Ditto the R8 and 4CV. I do use the ones 'avec levier' so as to be able to prime it if the car has been idle for too long.

Great looking R12 btw. :)
 
I’ve run facet and more recently an American brand whose name escapes me without issue but I’ll see if I can find the name of the last one. The detail is probably on my old resto thread on her. It was on my old white R10 for many years with the hot 1.4 engine.

cheers
 
I run a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump (noisy as hell) with a Malpassi regulator set at 3-4 psi - both a good setup and no fuel starvation issues ever once set up.
But (if you have not already done so) it it imperative that you have fitted a Tachometric relay (I use Peel) which cuts the fuel supply in case of an accident - because even though your engine may stop running after stalling, if you still have the ignition on, the electric pump will keep pumping - which could pose a potential risk of fire.
 
Sorry about the delay Rory,if you still need those corners pm me you name and adress and I'll stick them in the post to you.
Thanks I'll send you a pm
I'd put the fuel filter on the suction side, personally.

We ran 1.4 R12s for many years with standard mechanical fuel pumps. Never a problem. Ditto the R8 and 4CV. I do use the ones 'avec levier' so as to be able to prime it if the car has been idle for too long.

Great looking R12 btw. :)
Yes, I think I'll add another small inline filter on the suction line near the tank
I run a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump (noisy as hell) with a Malpassi regulator set at 3-4 psi - both a good setup and no fuel starvation issues ever once set up.
But (if you have not already done so) it it imperative that you have fitted a Tachometric relay (I use Peel) which cuts the fuel supply in case of an accident - because even though your engine may stop running after stalling, if you still have the ignition on, the electric pump will keep pumping - which could pose a potential risk of fire.
I hadn't considered this, thanks for the advice


I have bought a aeroflow low pressure fuel pump which I will mount closer to the fuel tank side with inline filter when I get a spare day. Thanks all for the inputs
 
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Got back to the car and redid the fuel system. Ended up making a bracket to install a suction filter and pump close to the fuel tank.
The bracket picks up off some existing bolts in the chassis rail and should be easy to remove in future.
It seems a bit clear now after re investigating the original fuel pump running the fuel tank to empty let me suck up a lot of rubbish through the pump most likely the cause of the failure.

I did clean the tank when I had it out of the car but it seem that some sandblasting media made its way into the tank at some point. Sand from sandblasting really does get everywhere...

Taking the car for a decent test drive outside of a small radius from home to see how it goes.

Also, I am looking for 9 or so clips that attach the chrome trims to the lower sill panels on the car if anybody knows a supplier or has spares.
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Have been driving the car for the past month or so we I have had a chance including a few longer trips, no major issues so far. It's a blast to drive and the big sway bars really make a huge difference in the handling.
Having the wideband sensor installed has been hugely helpful in setting up the tune without guessing and as it is the engine is running the ducelliur r278 ignition curve and pulls really well with no changes to standard weber 40dcoe jetting. I have got some idle jets to play with that might help responsiveness in the 1-2.5k rpm range but AFRs are pretty good overall.

I've set the rev limiter at 6500rpm, this feels safe, the engine is still pulling very nicely where are others revving to?
 
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Some small things left to do are finish off fitting the badges, I got some excellent NOS badges to be fitted to the boot and front fenders. I'll cut off the tabs and use double sided tape.

When I fitted a new drivers door skin I overlooked cutting a hole for the door lock barrel and have only been able to open it from the inside (passenger side) so in stead of cutting a hole, damaging the paint and having to redo it I've installed a central locking kit that works great on both fronts doors.

One small issue I had was the started solenoid coming loose and and just hanging in the engine bay! (Could have been worse! So I removed and installed new bolts with Loctite and as is required it got a Dulux before going back in

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Love your work Rory, haven't seen a set of badges and a gear stick knob like that since I owned my 1972 R12GL sedan last century.

Those badges and gear knob were extras in the Renault Boutique catalogue.
 
Thanks col, the gear stick knob is probably my favourite detail on the car
 
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Love your work Rory, haven't seen a set of badges and a gear stick knob like that since I owned my 1972 R12GL sedan last century.

Those badges and gear knob were extras in the Renault Boutique catalogue.
I have a copy of that catalogue somewhere here!
 
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I have a copy of that catalogue somewhere here!
I also have a copy of that catalogue as well. My 1972 R12GL came with a owners handbook and also the Renault Boutique Catalogue as well. There was quite few accessories one could buy including clothing.
 
Very smart installing a remote lock instead of drilling the door.

I would leave it like that.

There is also the option of getting a lock barrel that goes inside the pushbutton. In fact I don't remember seeing the separate lock barrel on overseas cars.
 
Very smart installing a remote lock instead of drilling the door.

I would leave it like that.

There is also the option of getting a lock barrel that goes inside the pushbutton. In fact I don't remember seeing the separate lock barrel on overseas cars.
Hmm I'll have to keep my eye out for this set up as well, would be nice to be able to use a key on that door also
 
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